gatorman21218
Registered User
Well to continue the saga my front brakes are now dragging heavily. I would really like to talk to someone over the phone. If you are brave enough to help me could you PM me your phone number thanks
More brake problems
- Thread starter gatorman21218
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smolkin
Stuck inside Mobile
I wish I could help but after about $1200 of brake work mine still drag when I turn the wheel too quickly. Everything is brand new and lubed properly. Someone must have a solution...I am very interested too...
gatorman21218
Registered User
No this is a direct result of hydroboost install. both front calipers are dragging and heating up to the point of smoking when I discovered it. the infared gun showed 450* on the front left.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Gatorman, I'd give ya my phone no problem, but out here I have absolutely no reception - the only time I can actually use the darn thing is when I go to town which is quite a few miles away.
Anyways, idk if you mentioned it, but have you replaced them brake hoses? Cause if those are collapsing internally they will hold pressure when you're off pedal and they will keep the calipers applied and thus the brakes dragging... Also when you fire up the truck does the pedal sink down on its own?
And one more thing to check, this is something I ran into when I installed my hydroboost - the length of the pushrod between the hydroboost and the master cylinder is very important, since I'm using my factory F350 master that has a very deep bore (too deep for the rather short Chevy pushrod) I had to make a spacer to slip in there to take up the slack. Well I didn't measure quite accurate and I made said spacer too long, which resulted out in the pushrod bottoming out in the bore before the master cylinder is actually seated on the hydroboost mounting flange, and so the master cylinder's piston could never return all the way back even at off-pedal - this caused a slight brake drag in the front, not enough to cause glowing rotors but definitely enough to where I could smell the pads and also feel the engine working harder to keep the truck moving. I pulled the master off, trimmed the pushrod spacer a bit, and all has been good ever since. Where I'm going with all this - are you using the F-Superduty master cylinder, or one for a vacuum booster? Whichever it is, make sure the pushrod for it does not bottom out in the piston's bore before the master is seated on the hydro flanges, basically you should be able to just slide the master onto the hydro studs till it's tight against it - if you have to push harder on it to make it go the last say 1/16" then your pushrod is a tad too long, or not seated properly in the hydroboost piston...
Anyways, idk if you mentioned it, but have you replaced them brake hoses? Cause if those are collapsing internally they will hold pressure when you're off pedal and they will keep the calipers applied and thus the brakes dragging... Also when you fire up the truck does the pedal sink down on its own?
And one more thing to check, this is something I ran into when I installed my hydroboost - the length of the pushrod between the hydroboost and the master cylinder is very important, since I'm using my factory F350 master that has a very deep bore (too deep for the rather short Chevy pushrod) I had to make a spacer to slip in there to take up the slack. Well I didn't measure quite accurate and I made said spacer too long, which resulted out in the pushrod bottoming out in the bore before the master cylinder is actually seated on the hydroboost mounting flange, and so the master cylinder's piston could never return all the way back even at off-pedal - this caused a slight brake drag in the front, not enough to cause glowing rotors but definitely enough to where I could smell the pads and also feel the engine working harder to keep the truck moving. I pulled the master off, trimmed the pushrod spacer a bit, and all has been good ever since. Where I'm going with all this - are you using the F-Superduty master cylinder, or one for a vacuum booster? Whichever it is, make sure the pushrod for it does not bottom out in the piston's bore before the master is seated on the hydro flanges, basically you should be able to just slide the master onto the hydro studs till it's tight against it - if you have to push harder on it to make it go the last say 1/16" then your pushrod is a tad too long, or not seated properly in the hydroboost piston...
gatorman21218
Registered User
Yeah i guess verizon doesnt have any towers on orb union
Ok I talked to russ this morning. I am replacing the rubber and steel lines for the front. The calipers are dragging so im going to replace them too along with new pads. its only money right? Russ mention the pushrod situation and I checked i can mount the m/c against the booster with no trouble so i dont think its forcing against the m/c. The push rod is a little too thick to fit nicely in the hole on the booster. Is this ok or should I grind it down so it can bottom out it the booster? BTW I am using a F-superduty Master cylinder.
Ok I talked to russ this morning. I am replacing the rubber and steel lines for the front. The calipers are dragging so im going to replace them too along with new pads. its only money right? Russ mention the pushrod situation and I checked i can mount the m/c against the booster with no trouble so i dont think its forcing against the m/c. The push rod is a little too thick to fit nicely in the hole on the booster. Is this ok or should I grind it down so it can bottom out it the booster? BTW I am using a F-superduty Master cylinder.
towcat
Full Access Member
if you're using a FSD master, you should have no pressure issues.
if you want to call, I'm at the office and can talk for the next couple of hours.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
It's a sat-phone actually, based on old soviet-era comm birds - can't expect those to be too reliable these days, guess their geo-sync orbits ain't too sync'ed no more
lolDon't replace the calipers yet tho, they're designed to be able to handle very high temperatures as long as it ain't for too prolonged periods of time. Do the hoses first and see where that gets you, for all you know the calipers may be just fine - I never replaced my calipers after my little mess, it's been thousands of miles on them since then and they've seen quite some workout and they're doing just fine. So yah, replace things one at a time, it not only saves you lotsa money and time (and aggravation) but also helps diagnose the issues better.
gatorman21218
Registered User
Ugg too late. Anyway on my old calipers the rubber was all tore up so I figure I should just go ahead and replace them. Im waiting on a rubber line and then I should be all set. I will also get to see how good my 20 dollar double flare tool is. I twisted the nut off the drivers side line and the line under the oil pan was so rusty it snapped in half when I was messing with it, so I made some new lines.
Question- should I regrease my hubs after heating it up like this? Its probably long overdue anyway.
Question- should I regrease my hubs after heating it up like this? Its probably long overdue anyway.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
The $20 double-flare tool should work great, it's one of the few things with a low price that don't mean low quality as well.
Sounds like your calipers were for the most part done with, replacing them now is the right decision IMHO - tough on the budget yes, but a good peace of mind, and probably better performance when all is said and done.
Yes, I would grease the wheel hubs if they're past due, it's cheaper than wiping out a bearing. Remember to NOT grease the locking hubs overly heavy, as this can make them slow to disengage when weather gets cold (may not be much of an issue in FL tho, lol).
Sounds like your calipers were for the most part done with, replacing them now is the right decision IMHO - tough on the budget yes, but a good peace of mind, and probably better performance when all is said and done.
Yes, I would grease the wheel hubs if they're past due, it's cheaper than wiping out a bearing. Remember to NOT grease the locking hubs overly heavy, as this can make them slow to disengage when weather gets cold (may not be much of an issue in FL tho, lol).
gatorman21218
Registered User
Well my 20 dollar became 8 cents of scrap iron when the yoke decided to split apart. Those damn chinese and their metallurgy. Did it on the fifth one too its not like ive done brake lines for the greater richmond area. ugh so now i got to go get another one. Any suggestions? the only stipulation is it has to be made in USA.
And how do I grease the hubs? just undo the screws and spread some fresh grease around or is there more involved?
And how do I grease the hubs? just undo the screws and spread some fresh grease around or is there more involved?
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Oh man, that's rough - can't you return the tool and get a new one? There's no reason for the yoke-thing to split like that, especially since you're flaring only 3/16" lines... And don't blame the Chinese metallurgy, blame the domestic company who told them to cast the tool as cheap as possible - I've seen plenty of good Chinese castings, them guys can do a great job at it, only problem is it costs more so the company that hires the overseas forge and foundry goes for the crappy quality instead - the cheaper it is to make there the more profit it will bring here...
Onto the hubs - actually, which hubs are you greasing? To grease the wheel hubs (basically repack the bearings) you'll need to take the whole darn mess down there apart, but to do just the locking hubs all you need to do is remove the screws and pull the caps off, then depending on how adventurous you feel you can proceed to removing the snap ring and pulling the slip-collars out to grease them so they slide nice and smooth.
Onto the hubs - actually, which hubs are you greasing? To grease the wheel hubs (basically repack the bearings) you'll need to take the whole darn mess down there apart, but to do just the locking hubs all you need to do is remove the screws and pull the caps off, then depending on how adventurous you feel you can proceed to removing the snap ring and pulling the slip-collars out to grease them so they slide nice and smooth.
gatorman21218
Registered User
I could return it but I got it from northern tool and they are 45 minutes away. cost more in gas then the thing is worth. I did send the company an email said basically your product is junk. i just ordered this one. http://www.amazon.com/International-KTI-70080-Professional-Double-Flaring/dp/B000BHQ1CS
Ill see if I can close up the yoke in the vice and have it finish the job so I can fire her up and see if i fixed the problem.
I dont really know about the hubs. I just know I should probably do something up there since I got em so hot. So should I repack the bearings? what grease should I use? I reall dont know my termanology of the axle but Illl look at my manual and see what all is involved. And If I do all that I might as replace the axle seal on the pumpkin since they are leaking. Man this is going to turn into a complete overhaul
Ill see if I can close up the yoke in the vice and have it finish the job so I can fire her up and see if i fixed the problem.
I dont really know about the hubs. I just know I should probably do something up there since I got em so hot. So should I repack the bearings? what grease should I use? I reall dont know my termanology of the axle but Illl look at my manual and see what all is involved. And If I do all that I might as replace the axle seal on the pumpkin since they are leaking. Man this is going to turn into a complete overhaul
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
KT makes fine tools... You wont be breaking that tool. Make sure you greased the caliper slides so the calipers slide easily....
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
On the hubs topic - repacking the bearings gets you 3/4 down the way to the place you wanna be if you're to do axle seals (bare knuckles, no spindles), so if you're about to do all this work might as well do the axle seals as well, and U-joints if you feel rich and industrious at the same time. If you ain't got the time and/or money, just run her as is, wheel bearings grease is some tough stuff and should be able to handle extreme temperatures for short periods of time - really, if you didn't see grease turning to liquid and leaking out the back of the rotors, methinks you'll be okay not messing with it.
gatorman21218
Registered User
Yes gary I greased the calipers good with some antisieze. Yeah I dont know on the one hand I so badly want to drive her again but on the other hand I have it apart this far and I'm pretty sure the u-joints on the front axle are original. They say spicer on them. I think for now Ill just work on the brakes and grease the locking hubs and hold off on the axle.
