More about a T19 swap

[riotwarrior]

OK, guess I will be pulling the column...maybe they won't make me buy it...or maybe it'd be good to have a spare manual column? I was under the impression that you needed to pull the steering wheel. So once its unbolted from the rag joint and the electronics are disconnected it'll just pull out on 80-86 and 87-91? And does it matter if its an 87-91 or a 80-86 for the pedal assy? Thanks

Most wreckers won't make you buy something you do not need. Basically, your removing it on their behalf for a sale later on.

Once it's unbolted from Rag joint, you may need to spread the spline area with a big screw driver and hammer....and the electronics are disconnected, proceed to taking the black "sorta" oval shape cover off on the fire wall that the column passes through...then undo the two bolts near the top of the column (ON THE UNDERSIDE) that hold it up into the dash/pedal assembly and your done, pull it out and set it aside. It isn't that bad of a job really, should take about 15-25 minutes...I can probably do it under 10 if I have to..no guarantee that the nice brittle plastic clips on the wiring will be there at that speed though


Once you have the column out it's a matter of removing the clips on the clutch and brake pushrods, sliding them off undoing I think it's 4 bolts on the firewall and two more under the dash and one switch on the Brake pedal for brake lights and voila...yer done like dinner

BTW..make sure you keep all the bolts you can...I mean all of em...well leave the one for the rag joint, put it back into the rag joint once the column is pulled.

As for the columns from different years fitting, I beleive the 80-86 and 87-90/1 will physically fit just the trim may not line up 100% fully functional...just different trims.

92 is a separate year on it's own I think and 93-96/7 are unto themselves as well.
Hope this helps....all in all your looking at about 45 mins to just over an hour if your new to doing it....about 45 mins tops if you have done it a few times.

Let us know how you make out.

 

[Jake S.]

Each body style has it's own dash, and the pedel assy. is not interchangeable between dash styles. Believe me, I tried. The difference is where they bolt to the dash above the column. Also you can not make a auto pedel set a manual as the pivot shaft is smaller on the auto. Hope it helps.

 

[Diesel JD]

Obviously you only need the clutch pedal and perhaps the brake too right? The go pedal is separate unto itself right? Just so we're clear, the dash/pedal assy will NOT work for separate years. Since I have an 86 I need to get the 80-86 style right?

 

[Jake S.]

'80-'86 only for your swap. Both pedals are mounted in an alum. frame, and the whole shabang is what you want. The assy I got for my swap broke so I bought one from a '90 and it was a no go. The pedal arms are the same, but the alum. piece is different. So I ended up finding another from a '85.

 

[Diesel JD]

That is good info Jake. I guess it doesn't matter between F150-F350 as long as its a manual right? I'm going to leave the dash as is , except I might get the manual insert in place of the gear selector panel that the auto dash has as I hear this comes out fairly easily in the 80-86 MY. One more thing, the transmission floor pan, you all said it unbolts with a 5/16" socket. I guess I just have to push back the carpet and get to it. Does it need anything done to the transmission or shifter to get the pan to come out? Anything else I need to grab while I'm out there? Thanks a lot,
JD

 

[Jake S.]

I guess it doesn't matter between F150-F350 as long as its a manual right?

right

I might get the manual insert in place of the gear selector panel that the auto dash has as I hear this comes out fairly easily in the 80-86 MY

Real easy. Remove cluster, remove two screws.

Does it need anything done to the transmission or shifter to get the pan to come out?

Remove shift lever. Remove carpet, then pan. Now on this one if you ever want to upgrade to a ZF you should get one from a truck that has/had a zf in it.

 

[hahn_rossman]

JD-
+1 on getting the zf doghouse, like Jake said. The shifter on the t-19 is removed by unscrewing the big ball shaped cover under the boot, then removing a 3/16" pin. The lever then pops right off. The ZF has four 10mm bolts holding the shifter on. You don't need to reve the shifter knob on either unless you need the bellows( or boots?). The knob is just shoved on a splined shaft.

Getting the master/slave bled is a drag. On my truck the line connecting them is routed under and around some stuff and I don't think you could install it as an assembly. It's relatively simple to bleed (note simple, not easy). Fill the master, then install the slave. The slave has a weird plastic strap which is also a bushing. It keeps the rod compressed so that you can install it, then breaks the first time the rod moved, leaving it trapped between the rod and the arm attached to the throwout bearing. I'd recommend installing the slave then gently unhooking the tabs that hold the strap to the slave so that if you have to remove it in the future you can reuse that strap.
Once you have the strap loose and the slave snapped into place use a prybar to push the arm (clutch fork?) against the slave. This compresses the rod in the slave. loosen the allen bleeder, let some air out then tighten it and let the arm return to it's rest position. that will draw fluid into the slave. repeat several times until you think you've got it. It may be easier if the nose of the truck is uphill so the bleeder is at the top of the slave. You can verify that the slave is working by having some one step on the pedal and measuring the travel of the rod. It's should be around 5/8". I don't have the figure on hand, maybe someoneelse can chime in. Good luck!

 

[Jake S.]

travel should be 11mm