Misfire

86ford69

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I still have some misfire at idle and when trying to hold constant rpm it will fluctuate. Im thinking I need to rebuild my injectors but Im not tonsure on how to do this. Or where to get parts. I got the popping at cold idle to go away. But I sti have trouble starting. I have to cycle the plugs three times to get it to fire.
 

gatorman21218

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Ok do you know how many miles you have on your fuel system? Sounds to me like you need to change it. I dont know whether your IP or injectors are causing the misfire, but if they both have some miles on them, you might as well change both the IP and injectors.
I wouldnt bother trying to rebuild the injectors yourself, youre just asking for trouble. I bought my injectors from AGNEM a member here and also sent my IP to him to rebuild it. WHOA buddy does big green run good now!!!!

On hard starting, My IP was so warn that if the block heater was not plugged in, it would not start even with multiple cycles of the glowplugs. With the new IP I havent plugged it in since!!!
 

gatorman21218

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Ok do you know how many miles you have on your fuel system? Sounds to me like you need to change it. I dont know whether your IP or injectors are causing the misfire, but if they both have some miles on them, you might as well change both the IP and injectors.
I wouldnt bother trying to rebuild the injectors yourself, youre just asking for trouble. I bought my injectors from AGNEM a member here and also sent my IP to him to rebuild it. WHOA buddy does big green run good now!!!!

On hard starting, My IP was so warn that if the block heater was not plugged in, it would not start even with multiple cycles of the glowplugs. With the new IP I havent plugged it in since!!!
 

86ford69

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I have close to 300,000 and idk if the ip has ever been rebuilt and or injectors replaced. The ip and all the lines are grey. There is some orange paint on some of the screws on the ip. I did t start having problem til a week or two ago and it started mis firing and running rough at the top end.I replaced the fuel filter and it got a lil bit better. I then replaced all the copper washers on the injectors and it got a lil bit better but not where it was.
 

icanfixall

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The fuel system is just plain worn out if... You actually have 300,000 miles on the injectors and pump. Usually these pumps and injectors last around 100,000 miles or just a bit more... As for replacing the copper washers on the ends of the injectors... That will have no impact of the misfire. What caused you to replace them..... Uhaul had a great sale on pumps and injectors last month.. A rebuilt pump for around $175.00 plus no core and new or rebuilt injectors for around $9.00 each... Some emebers bought 5 pumps.. Hundreds of glow plugs and many other really inexpensive wear parts..... It twas a chance of a lifetime deal that just couldn't be passed up by most... All I really needed was another spare tach senser..... You might try a pump and injectors from pensacola diesel.... They have an up and down issue with quality.... I personally have their pump and find nothing wrong with it... Others have had nothing but trouble with their injectors and pumps.... They do have about the lowest price for these parts on the internet... Now if you want quality then buy from agnem or typ4 here... They are standup members in high regard and will do whatever it takes if you have an issue with what you buy from them..... They have been doing business here for a long time and nobody has ever had an issue.... I "thought" I was having a heat soak problem when my engine would not restart after warming up... Nope..... Turns out I had turned the moose pump down so far that it couldn't supply enough fuel to restart after it was warmed up... It was turned down lower than a normal rebuild.... Nothing was actually wrong with the pump.... Just something wrong with me.....:dunno Sometimes Your the bug and sometimes your the windshield... I'm usually the bug.....:angel:
 
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86ford69

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I did find brand new still in the plastic DB2 pumps on eBay for $155 each. I think this is part of my smoke problem to. I was bored one day and wanted to try and fix the ping so I replaced the copper washers just for the heck of it. I also removed the return line on the pump to check the ball but it wasn't there. I'm thinking of chaining the motor or putting the body on a deuce frame and making it my mud toy.
 

86ford69

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So your saying because of the grey ip and orange paint that it is original? That's crazy mileage for a stock pump and injectors. I'll look around and try to find a good deal and replace them and see if she likes that. I'm just worried about all the constant white smoke but now I'm leaning towards the worn out pump doing that and not massive blow by. Thee is some oil that come from the cdr but now like it was before I replaced it. Although I still eat oil like crazy. Something like two quarts every hundred miles or so!
 

gatorman21218

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If it is rebuilt there should be a tag on there from the rebuilder. It is highly unlikely that it has lasted this long, but wierder things have happened. Oil use if not from external leaks is probably due to stuck/coked rings or valve guides. Do a search on AutoRX. Some people have had very good results with it.

The hard injection lines dont get replaced and therefore are original grey. My old injectors were also grey but they were CAV rebuilds so they of course are not original.
 

gatorman21218

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If it is rebuilt there should be a tag on there from the rebuilder. It is highly unlikely that it has lasted this long, but wierder things have happened. Oil use if not from external leaks is probably due to stuck/coked rings or valve guides. Do a search on AutoRX. Some people have had very good results with it.

The hard injection lines dont get replaced and therefore are original grey. My old injectors were also grey but they were CAV rebuilds so they of course are not original.
 

icanfixall

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The return line check valve on the top of the injection pump does not have a ball in it... It has a pin that when pressed will open the valve and allow fuel to pass. The shutoff solenoid in the pump works that lever that opens the check valve... The ball check vlave (if you want to call it that) is found in the thermostat housing neck. Its there for air that gets trapped in the cooling system.
 

86ford69

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Oh ok. I was told there is a glass ball in the return line that will carb debri from the pump when it is going out.
 

86ford69

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I've used several kinds of cleaners and oil stop leaks and whatever u can think of. Still smoking and still eating oil.
 

icanfixall

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Why turn up a pump thats possibliy going bad... It will just smoke more plus.... More fuel without more air will heat up the exhaust... that can get so hot that the pistons melt... A pyro is required before you try turning up the fuel.... Otherwise your driving blind without a speedometer. How hot are you getting it... Too hot and your engine is shot... The coolant temp will not tell you how hot the exhaust gas is either....
 
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