Mini-excavator engine removal

[Vern]

Can anyone give me assurances the driver side truck engine mount be installed after the truck oil cooler is installed?

And what is up with pulley sizes? Van had big bottom smaller top. Van was an ambuance package with bigger alternator? Truck had smaller bottom bigger top.

Finally getting back to this .. been hesitant to return the cummins dodge.. lol

Can the driver side truck engine mount be installed after the oil cooler is installed?

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[IDIBRONCO]

Can the driver side truck engine mount be installed after the oil cooler is installed?

Yes it can. It's easier to do when the engine's out of the tuck.

 

[rhkcommander]

What I would recommend considering, if others agree here, and I haven't done it on an idi van, but put an old tire under the engine, if its 2wd, move axle and cut crossmember, core support, and anything in the way and drop the block onto tire, oil pan in the hub. Then slide it out of the carcass and then lift it up. Toss it on an engine stand or support it, swap the van crap for the trucks.

Seen it once on a chevy van with a 350, obviously idi is bigger but if the van doesnt matter you could gut the whole front out. It isnt pretty, but it isn't fun fishing the block out anyway you do it on them.

Also redo the orings on the truck oil cooler while you have it out.

 

[genscripter]

Van was an ambuance package with bigger alternator?

Yes. The ambulances had bigger alternators.

Can anyone give me assurances the driver side truck engine mount be installed after the truck oil cooler is installed?

Don't know for sure for the trucks (IDIBronco already answered that), but the mount bracket on the van cannot be installed with the oil cooler on the block. I made a post about it a long time ago because I found it really annoying that the top bolt is too long and hits the van cooler. https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/engine/6-9-7-3-idi-van-engine-mounting-bolt-replacement/

What I would recommend considering, if others agree here, and I haven't done it on an idi van, but put an old tire under the engine, if its 2wd, move axle and cut crossmember, core support, and anything in the way and drop the block onto tire, oil pan in the hub. Then slide it out of the carcass and then lift it up. Toss it on an engine stand or support it, swap the van crap for the trucks.

IDK. It would be pretty hard to do that without destroying the VC's and anything on the sides of the block. You'd have to take off the i-beams, and cut the cross member, and it's a PITA to get access to the top of the crossmember.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

but the mount bracket on the van cannot be installed with the oil cooler on the block.

You're absolutely right. I had forgotten about this being in a van. I don't think that cutting the cross member out is a good idea. It's actually an important strengthening piece.

 

[Vern]

With the truck engine out I'm preparing to put the van engine in and I have a question for you all. Any body know if it's possible to slide the zf and transfer case back far enough to put the engine on its mounts before mating them up? The input shaft would clear with a few inches it seems.

It's uneven ground with the engine on a wrecker hook and no load-leveling device and I'd like to avoid the potential for damage in the inevitable wrestling match.

I'd had a clutch shake I wanted to address and what I found was some heat scoring on pressure plate and SM flywheel. That shake or surge I'm told was likely the springs in the clutch disk being loose. They were not to loose and I then found that the release fingers were clearly uneven from side to side - about 3/16" difference. The higher side seemed to correspond with the area of most heat score on the plate. the clutch, bearins and flywheel were replaced not that long ago so can I assume this has to do with it being a cheaper clutch (and not being heavy duty)?

So I got a luk 07-131, machined the FW so I don't want to bang it up.

Also, the van motor mounts (bit bracketry) look so very similar to the truck mounts which have been soaking in oil and feel floppy. What is the difference? TKS

 

[rhkcommander]

My van engine didn't come with mounts, can't help there. I can't imagine they'd be much different but If the truck ones were good I'd pop them off just in case. The oil cooler and exhaust manifolds are different, fuel filter, as are a few other details.

 

[Vern]

I thought I’d take up on the thread I started to try and contain the inevitable firther question or two arrising from not only the engine swap but a new to me ip, a remain I found at a local yard.

Initially I replaced my original pump as a starting point having none on the van engine. It was a good motor and seeing it going aftet all the work the guy said he shold have charged me more then $150, laughing.

worked great. I know now the suspicions I had it was a turned up pump are true. Because, the un-tampered reman tells me what it was intended to run like- much less need to manage smoke by watching tail-pipe in the mirror - and the need to use way more of the accelerator.

so with the second hand reman ip, and after a while working at timing, I feel like I’m driving a grocery getter. Starts beautiful, runs smoothly and doesnt smoke. Ofcourse the new clutch make a considerable improvement in that regard, too.

but, I have this oddity now where under acceleration it hits a flat spot at 2 grand in the revs, and I have to use the lead foot if I demand the same rate of pull. Is this something i would be plenty familiar with if I’d started with a factory calibrated pump? I hasten to think not, and wonder about metering valve trouble or other sticky internals. May be it is something one of you have experienced? TIA