ls rear end questions

jonathan

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i am needing a diagram of a ls rear end. and some pictures of the clutch packs. i am going to try to tighten mine up a little. is there certain order to put the plates and the disk in?
 

RLDSL

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If you have a 10.25 there is no tightening it up aside from rebuilding teh thing with new clutches. I've hears about folks putting extra clutches in a LS rear, but that can only be accomplished in lighter duty rear ends, not in these monsters. Just getting the spiders back in with the factory amount of clutches is almost a miracle to accomplish on one of these things and yes, they go back in a specific order. you have to watch how they come out, they go back the same way, there is a curvature to the bell spring that needs to face the correct direction
 

RLDSL

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Also, if it's a 10.25, make sure you get a clutch kit for the correct year. THe later ones are a different material and I have no idea if they will work or not, but I have heard that they are a no go ( and that they also don't last as long )
JUst rebuilding the thing will give very favourable results. I rebuilt mine right before we went on a 3 month trip with the 5er and I had the dually out on a bunch of 4x4 only roads up in teh high country in Colorado around Leadville ( hey, I have 4 tires on teh back and they're all driving, that counts, right? :D I have some very nice traction right now. I don't know how long it's going to last. when I got the truck , it would get stuck on wet grass with rib tires, then I put mudders on it and it did a lot better, now with a fresh posi and mudders and the low range on my brownie it tracks over most anything I'd ever want to get into.
 

RLDSL

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also its a 10.5

Pretty much the same critter design wise.. as far as how hard to rebuild, somewhere between nightmare and wishing you had never been born :eek:

You'll need some allthread and big nuts and washers to compress the new springs down to be able to roll the spiders in and even at that its under a heck of a lot of tension just trying to get the works to move can be interesting when you consider it's purpose is to prevent movement of the wheel of a truck under power
Book says to compress one side, I had to compress both to get the spiders in and get their shims back in place with one side compressed, the spiders simply would not go in no matter what and I had made a real neat tool to turn the carrier out of a spare axle by cutting it down and welding it back up short and bolting a handle to it for leverage. The thing came apart easily with that setup.
 

jonathan

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thanks i guess im not mess with them myself. i'll pay some one to do it for me. aslo its not a 10.5 its a 10.25 i made a typeo
 

RLDSL

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thanks i guess im not mess with them myself. i'll pay some one to do it for me. aslo its not a 10.5 its a 10.25 i made a typeo

Probably a wise decision. When you get down into it a number of the more nitty gritty manuals list that you need a case spreader to remove and install the carrier. Well you can get the carrier out without one but chances are it's not going back in with the same side shims without one.
You;d be cash and aggrivation ahead to drive it in to a rear end specialty shop.
 

OLDBULL8

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What makes you think it should be rebuilt? Unless the truck has been used in places where the LS was needed most of the time or ram rodded from traffic lite to lite, they hardly ever wear out. Try some LS additive in it before spending all that money.

My 90 has 287,000 on it and the rear is still strong LS.
 

TLBREWER

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What makes you think it should be rebuilt? Unless the truck has been used in places where the LS was needed most of the time or ram rodded from traffic lite to lite, they hardly ever wear out. Try some LS additive in it before spending all that money.

My 90 has 287,000 on it and the rear is still strong LS.

I'm thinking of putting a new, larger capacity rear cover on...and of course changing the fluid which I'm sure has never been done. What is the correct fluid and LS additive I should use?

Tom
 

RLDSL

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I'm thinking of putting a new, larger capacity rear cover on...and of course changing the fluid which I'm sure has never been done. What is the correct fluid and LS additive I should use?

Tom

Basic fill is sae 80 w -90 with regular limited slip additive
If you go to a synthetic you have other options depending on if you tow heavy or not I wouldn't know which way to steer you.
 

Dave7.3

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I am also curious which way you would go with synthetic gear oil for our axles. I'm betting I should look into it soon as I'm pretty sure mine has never been changed...76k and counting!
 

jonathan

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What makes you think it should be rebuilt? Unless the truck has been used in places where the LS was needed most of the time or ram rodded from traffic lite to lite, they hardly ever wear out. Try some LS additive in it before spending all that money.

My 90 has 287,000 on it and the rear is still strong LS.

because half the time it does the one wheel peel
 
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