loose U joint

Exekiel69

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I was doing my usual underbody inspection and found something strange to Me, One of the U joints bolts was loose about 1/16 of thread, it was the U joint that bolts the drive shaft to the differential. I just tightened it and called i good for now but I wonder what could it be since I never loosened that one before, not even when I did the tranny, I just unbolted the ones on the transmission.
 

krawlr

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My local parts house had a kit with new straps and bolts for 5 bucks and some change. Figured it was cheap insurance while I was back there. Part# 331-10 from Federal Mogul.
 

Exekiel69

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Nope no washer, I don't think it has any. Maybe I'll recheck it all but I don't remember seen any.
Thank you.
 

93turbo_animal

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yep its actually fairlly common for them to loosen up I actually had one missing and the other 3 loose on my mustang so I got new bolts and loctited them things in there
 

Exekiel69

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93turbo_animal said:
yep its actually fairlly common for them to loosen up I actually had one missing and the other 3 loose on my mustang so I got new bolts and loctited them things in there


Cool then I'll provably do that. If I get a new set I'd like one with hex bolts, the one I have has star bolts and is difficult for Me not to break it while I tighten them :rolleyes: .
 

Mr_Roboto

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The 12 point nuts are actually stronger (using the proper wrench). The problem is they use a 12mm wrench, you are probably trying to use a 1/2" wrench which is a little larger and barely grabs the nuts.
 

Exekiel69

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Maybe I didn't say it right, it is 12 points inside you have to use one of those allen whrench but with 12 points to turn them.
 

Mr_Roboto

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Sorry, I was thinking you had the conventional U-bolts and nuts/ It sounds like you have the bolt and strap setup.

NAPA has replacement sets for about $5, I picked up a set for a 74 F350 a couple weeks ago because it was missing one of the U-bolts.
 

Exekiel69

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Yes it is a strap, I will use some locktite on the bolts, but I'd like to get rid of those freaky bolts some time and put some standard hex head bolts or 12 point.

Thank You.
 

towcat

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ez-
the Torx head bolts actually work really well and take up far less room than a conventional bolt head. key thing is getting a GOOD T-45 or T-47 torx socket from Snap-on or Mac. Make sure that its forged not cast. I usually will coat the threads with Aviation Permatex. The stuff will keep the bolts from backing out and will not seize up the bolt on the yoke later on down the road. A quick shot of carb spray will dissolve the permatex so the bolt removal is easier. You don't get a bath or spray of carb spray chemicals durring normal driving so its not a worry using permatex.
 

Mr_Roboto

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I would be very cautious of using "lock-tite" on an application such as that. There is a lot more thread than a regular nut, and so a little lock-tite tightens a lot. I'd be nervous about snapping the bolt head off on removal.

The stuff that Towcat is talking about sounds like a better solution.
 

hugeredford

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If you buy a new spicer strap and bolt kit the threads come with some type of locker sealant on them new straps just seem to hold better than used ones and their cheap.
 

Diesel Fly

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Mr_Roboto said:
I would be very cautious of using "lock-tite" on an application such as that. There is a lot more thread than a regular nut, and so a little lock-tite tightens a lot. I'd be nervous about snapping the bolt head off on removal.

The stuff that Towcat is talking about sounds like a better solution.
You probably already know this but Loctite makes a bunch of different types of thread locker - some more permanent than others.
 

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