Loose Driveline

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Well,
I got a chance to start playingwith Goldilocks tonight for a couple and found the carrier bearing and spline shaft on the rear driveshaft loose and very sloppy.
The carrier bearing seems to be pretty soft and there appears to be some play in the splined area. Could this be caused by the carrier bearing going south or combination of both being worn? There is quite a bit of vertical play on the rear driveshaft causing some vibration and a clunk when taking off or changing direction.
Any thoughts before I start changing things out?

Ron

 

[soulpatchfr]

1) build that girl as tough as i know you will & 'Goldilocks' will work
2) i just had the stealership replace my carrier bearing last fall... p/n FMC E4TZ 4800 A / $58.03.
they say they had to cut it off with a torch & bent me over for 2 hours labor
3) what kind of sloppy on the 2 piece shaft? fore/aft or lateral? my bet is the CB is to blame - i've seen those splines hold up to tremendous abuse back in my Jeepin' days.
BONUS ROUND:
4) if it turns out the rear U-joint(s) are gone, mine were p/n FMC F3TZ 4635 A / $28.45 x2.
5) you were spot on about the bad ground on the trailer lights - embarassed to say what i missed

 

[towcat]

If the bearing itself is still good...ie. drop the support and spin the bearing to check for noise. If it tests out good, the rubber isolator bushing can be replaced as long as you have a really good auto parts store. The Anchor/Doan motor mount catalog has the rubbers itself. your counterman may have to look in the back for the picture section. I have the F450 P/N and they are physically larger than the F250/350. as far as the splines are concerned, if you have slop when you are "twisting" the driveshaft and you can SEE movement in the spline area, its time for a rebuild IF the driveline snap becomes very violent. I've seen this problem in the past and its directly linked to drivers you tend to drop the clutch and hammer the throttle hard.
Hope this helps.

 

[apextrans]

I just swapped in a "new" used rear because the original was damaged after I got hit this winter. All went well with the swap, but I didn't crank down tight enough on the big nut that holds the yoke onto the rear itself. ( I guess it would be the tail of the pinion gear) I had BAD cluncking when changing direction or deceleration. I put a few more cranks on it & no more problems. Maybe yours is a bit loose?

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

If the bearing itself is still good...ie. drop the support and spin the bearing to check for noise. If it tests out good, the rubber isolator bushing can be replaced as long as you have a really good auto parts store. The Anchor/Doan motor mount catalog has the rubbers itself. your counterman may have to look in the back for the picture section. I have the F450 P/N and they are physically larger than the F250/350. as far as the splines are concerned, if you have slop when you are "twisting" the driveshaft and you can SEE movement in the spline area, its time for a rebuild IF the driveline snap becomes very violent. I've seen this problem in the past and its directly linked to drivers you tend to drop the clutch and hammer the throttle hard.
Hope this helps.

Scott,
Yep can see movement moving by hand. Thanks

That's what I was afraid of.

Will look at new end for the driveline and will also replace the rubber bushing as it is pretty "soft"

Frank...... No excuses man, grab another cold one and quit slackin' bro.
Glad it was simple for ya now go get that Scout!

Ron

 

[Agnem]

Ron, based on my recent driveshaft rework project, I can tell you that shops are getting about $45 per weld and $65 for balancing, plus you would need the parts. I don't know if Goldilocks is the same length, but the recently removed carrier bearing/driveshaft assembly happens to be available for less than what your looking at, and is noise free.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Ron, based on my recent driveshaft rework project, I can tell you that shops are getting about $45 per weld and $65 for balancing, plus you would need the parts. I don't know if Goldilocks is the same length, but the recently removed carrier bearing/driveshaft assembly happens to be available for less than what your looking at, and is noise free.

I haven't taken some measurements yet but will do that and see how she compares to the Beef might be an option worth pursuing here.

Thanks,

Ron

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Ok, :***:

Was under the ole gals tonight lookin' up some skirts when Goldie reared a big ugly. Noticed there was a great deal of rust on the leaf springs but still intact and none broken. BUT found all 4 u-bolts loose on the axle, I mean 1/8" play loose. Talk about a free floating axle!
Just think this might have been the cause of the driveline failure. Gonna reset the rear axle and see if that frees up some of the play as it seems to be over extended just a tad. Hmmmmm.

Mel,
Looks like the Lady Moose driveshaft won't work. Thinking that both being CC DRW's (comparing Goldie to the Beef) would have the back driveshaft and same length. Not so. There's almost 2" of length on a 4x4 vs 4x2.
Oh well, I have a driveshaft for the hotrod Ranger that might have a similar setup and might work.

Ron

 

[budtoh3zo]

Thats not good. Hope it did not do to much damage from being loose like that

 

[Agnem]

Ok, :***:

Was under the ole gals tonight lookin' up some skirts when Goldie reared a big ugly. Noticed there was a great deal of rust on the leaf springs but still intact and none broken. BUT found all 4 u-bolts loose on the axle, I mean 1/8" play loose. Talk about a free floating axle!
Just think this might have been the cause of the driveline failure. Gonna reset the rear axle and see if that frees up some of the play as it seems to be over extended just a tad. Hmmmmm.

Mel,
Looks like the Lady Moose driveshaft won't work. Thinking that both being CC DRW's (comparing Goldie to the Beef) would have the back driveshaft and same length. Not so. There's almost 2" of length on a 4x4 vs 4x2.
Oh well, I have a driveshaft for the hotrod Ranger that might have a similar setup and might work.

Ron

Goldie is a 4X4? You forgot to put that in your sig. I guess the second section is more likely to be the same length as on any other truck. I know a crew cab and extended cab have the same length second section.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Goldie is a 4X4? You forgot to put that in your sig. I guess the second section is more likely to be the same length as on any other truck. I know a crew cab and extended cab have the same length second section.

Sorry, got ahead of myself on that one I think.

On Goldie,
The second section on the rear driveshaft is a different length than the Beef's second. I think it has to be longer to compensate for the 4"'s of lift needed. Thought they would be the same but I was wrong.

Ron

 

[Agnem]

Ron! Bad news!

Found this on the internet, so it must be true. Link

See. You knew that name was trouble. ;p

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Found this on the internet, so it must be true. Link

See. You knew that name was trouble. ;p

Dangit Mel,

OK the war is on!
(Flame suit donned)

 

[budtoh3zo]

thats good mel

 

[Agnem]

That one came from over at Full Size Bronco. I have no idea what you'd use it for.