Looking to buy a 2000 PSD

[mk1cabrio2_0]

Hi everyone. I have been browsing the forum the last few days and reading up on some old posts.

I am looking at buying a 2000 F250. Here are some of the details.

160K Miles, 4x4, crew cab, auto, Lariat

Anyone have some tips on things for me to check.

Auto Tranny
Coolant - Cavitation
Engine leaks
Service records

Any ways for me to see if the engine has cavitation besides checking the coolant for oil and maybe pressurizing the coolant system.

The body is nice shape and no rust.

11K -14K price....

This will be my first diesel (Truck). I have a 01 VW TDI and a ford tractor though

 

[Mike]

Heres a little bit of info to digest on things to look for when purchasing a used 7.3. Now keep in mind that some of this info pertains to the old body Ford PSD (94-97) but the engines are very similar.

Buying Used Power Stroke Diesels
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel​

• 
  
  Turbo:
  
• You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.
  
  
  Airbox:
  
• Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.
  
  
  Tranny:
  
• If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.
  
  
  Rear Gear Ratio:
  
• 4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
  
  
  Coolant:
  
• Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).
  
  
  Front end:
  
• Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
  
  
  Oil:
  
• The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.
  
  
  Aftermarket stuff:
  
• Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.
  
  
  Glow Plugs/Relay:
  
• Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed , and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.
  
  
  Injector o-rings:
  
• The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.
  
  
  Leaks and Drips:
  
• You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
  
  
  VIN number:
  
• If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

 

[h2odrx]

hey welcome to the site, you can check the OASIS I think?

 

[mk1cabrio2_0]

I test drove it today and something is seriously wrong with it. I have never drove a 7.3 but know it should have plenty more power than it did. It struggled to get over 55mph and took almost 25 seconds to get there.

He said the turbo had been replaced because of a rotted gasket before he purchased it and stated that the ECU just needed reprogrammed.

To me it felt like the turbo was not working at all.

I think I will just keep looking.

Thanks for the tips though.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

probably in need of injectors.

 

[Mike]

That whole line about the turbo being replaced due to a rotted gasket doesnt wash with me. To me it sounded like the EBPV was stuck closed.

 

[trackspeeder]

That whole line about the turbo being replaced due to a rotted gasket doesnt wash with me. To me it sounded like the EBPV was stuck closed.

Or they didn't put the boots on the IC tubes correctly.

 

[mk1cabrio2_0]

It sold for 13k. I just hope the dealership from Missouri who bought it contacted him and asked him first.

Are the injectors expensive. I read that sometimes the harness comes unplugged.

It may not sale and I could make him an offer on it. Would 10K be to cheap to offer?

 

[trackspeeder]

It sold for 13k. I just hope the dealership from Missouri who bought it contacted him and asked him first.

Are the injectors expensive. I read that sometimes the harness comes unplugged.

It may not sale and I could make him an offer on it. Would 10K be to cheap to offer?

Injectors can be expensive. UVC harness could be bad. The engine will skip badly.

If you don't mind working on the truck.Make an offer on the beast.