Long cranking to start when hot

bdemutis

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So I got my batteries in today and wanted to fire it up. I had to give her help to start the first time after I let it warm up it I shut it off and cranked it takes about 6-8 second of cranking to start when hot. I let the truck idle for awhile came outside to check but the truck shut off. I cranked for awhile no start cranked again 6 second of cranking it started. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel sending unit, fuel pump, oil pan, and glow plug relay. Also my glow plug relay clicks when I turn the key. I need some help also after I let the truck sit for a bit it seems like it doesn't want to start but after it does start it runs good. Some one please help. :frustrate
 

79jasper

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Sounds like you're either leaking oil pressure down (probably injector orings, or hpop could be on it's way out) or loosing fuel somewhere.
Check your oil to make sure diesel isn't getting in there, also when it dies, check the fuel level in the filter, and pull the check plug on the hpop and check oil level there.
You may just need to get it running and drive the **** out of it to get all the air out.

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OLDBULL8

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I replaced the fuel filter, fuel sending unit, fuel pump, oil pan, and glow plug relay. Also my glow plug relay clicks when I turn the key.
You did all that before or after it has trouble starting?

Why did you replace the fuel sending unit?

The GP relay shouldn't click, click, click when key is first turned on unless the engine is hot. How long does the WTS lite stay on?

Is your oil level between the hash marks on the dip stick? It must be there.

How many miles on the oil? Dirty oil makes for hard start.

Did you use ether to help start the first time?

A diesel engine won't normally shut off by itself unless it runs out of fuel or develops air intrusion.

If the ICP sensor is leaking oil around the wires, it needs to be changed. You can unplug it, then the PCM takes over to a default IPR PSI.

Open the filter drain valve, if you have a clear piece of hose on it, see if you have full flow out of it (no air bubbles) when someone cranks it over.

To start you must have around 400 PSI oil injector pressure. Cranking RPM around 350 to 500. Fuel 50 PSI.

Pull the plug on top of HPOP, oil level should be within 3/4" from top. LPOP fills the HPOP, it may be draining back to the oil pan and would need a long crank to refill.

If your ICP connector has oil in it, change it. Don't argue, just change it. Don't check other things first, just change it.
 
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bdemutis

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You did all that before or after it has trouble starting?

Why did you replace the fuel sending unit?

The GP relay shouldn't click, click, click when key is first turned on unless the engine is hot. How long does the WTS lite stay on?

Is your oil level between the hash marks on the dip stick? It must be there.

How many miles on the oil? Dirty oil makes for hard start.

Did you use ether to help start the first time?

A diesel engine won't normally shut off by itself unless it runs out of fuel or develops air intrusion.

If the ICP sensor is leaking oil around the wires, it needs to be changed. You can unplug it, then the PCM takes over to a default IPR PSI.

Open the filter drain valve, if you have a clear piece of hose on it, see if you have full flow out of it (no air bubbles) when someone cranks it over.

To start you must have around 400 PSI oil injector pressure. Cranking RPM around 350 to 500. Fuel 50 PSI.

Pull the plug on top of HPOP, oil level should be within 3/4" from top. LPOP fills the HPOP, it may be draining back to the oil pan and would need a long crank to refill.

If your ICP connector has oil in it, change it. Don't argue, just change it. Don't check other things first, just change it.

Ok well my oil was below the line it took almost a gallon of oil. I forgot before I did the pan all the fresh oil I drained I lost allot because of the leak. I'm just at the line but my driveway is on a hill. Oil is brand new never drove the truck since I got it because I got it towed home and tore into and found out it needed a new floor and cab mount support and other things.
Also I cant get the hpop plug out because it stripped because it was seized in there because the truck sat so long.
I think it has air in the system that I need to finish putting it back together get it inspected then drive it for a few miles.
I replaced the sending unit because the original one was rotted out. I unplugged the icp the engine didn't change no oil leaking I cleaned the icp today.
Also starting seems to be getting better it only took 3 short cranks to start today and that was before I added more oil in the engine.
 

79jasper

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You'll need to drive it hard for awhile to get the air out. Sometimes 100 miles.

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bdemutis

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Ok well I was bleeding brakes yesterday noticed the starter seemed sluggish got a new starter today cranks way faster than it was but I still have a long crank. I recorded a video of actual time cranking until it starter here it is to give you an idea. Remember I installed new batteries, starter, fuel filter, fuel tank sending unit, oil pan, fuel lines, fuel pump, and glowplug relay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPhR3Y7qWkA
 

bdemutis

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I'm still gonna go with injector orings/hpop.
Anyway you can bug or borrow AE?

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So your still going with drive it for awhile then see how it plays out? Also borrow or bug AE? if you mean a scanner I don't know any one with one that does like data. I did see online there is an app for your phone you use a Bluetooth ob2 plug and you can do buzz test and live data. I was thinking of buying the ob2 port on ebay since its cheap and giving it a try. So I just ordered one it was only $10 if it doesn't work o well its $10.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTyrGjwTo4s
 
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79jasper

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Meant buy ae. (Autoenginuity)
It's the best thing you can get for diagnosing these engines.
I can't give any advice on the Bluetooth interface, most I've seen have problems, or won't work.
And yes, can keep driving it to see what happens, but I meant more like the injector orings themselves, or the high pressure oil pump.

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bdemutis

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Meant buy ae. (Autoenginuity)
It's the best thing you can get for diagnosing these engines.
I can't give any advice on the Bluetooth interface, most I've seen have problems, or won't work.
And yes, can keep driving it to see what happens, but I meant more like the injector orings themselves, or the high pressure oil pump.

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Well hopefully its neither but best case would be the injector o rings. I don't want to dish out another $600 for a hpop.
 

bdemutis

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Which hpop did you get?

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I didn't get one I'm just saying I spent so much money this far I would hate to have to dish out $600 for a hpop I know I can get them on ebay cheaper and online. Hopefully I just need to run her hard.
 
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