hello again everyone so my idi takes forever to start after letting it sit for more then a few hours. when it does start it will run great for a second start to misfire then die then i have to crank the engine over for another 20 seconds then it will start back up and runs perfectly fine. or it just cranks over for a bit then start and runs fine. now i may have a glow plug issue but I'm not sure how that would effect this infinitely long start. it is currently summer and always no less then around 70 ish degrees. this is how my normal starting procedure goes. when i have let it sit for a couple hours i run the glow plugs for about 10 seconds wait for the start light to turn off then ill get to cranking the motor up. in the first five- ten seconds the engine will start to send a cloud of blueish white smoke out the exhaust then after turning over the engine for 15-20 seconds there is a chance it starts. if it does then most of the time it will run shortly and die. ill stop turn the key again and wait for the start light to turn off probably crank it for another 15 seconds it may start now and if it does it normally stays running. if it doesn't start the i will crank it for another 15- 20 seconds and it will probably start if not ill just keep doing it until it does i probably spent close to 1-2 minutes starting it this morning it was 78 degrees when i started it. i did recently do a fuel filter and oil and filter change but it has had this problem before i changed the filters. when the truck runs it runs great no issues ever its just starting the thing is a problem.
7.3 idi turbo very very very long start
- Thread starter Stuka
- Start date
Kdo58
Full Access Member
Try starting fluid, if it starts right up, you probably have something wrong with your glow plug system
IDIBOBS
Registered User
starting fluid is terrible for a diesel. Test your plugs. I’d bet they are bad. A 70deg day is not going to make up for 1200deg plugs. If it’s running fine when it starts then it’s most likely the plugs. How does it start working once it’s warm.
A little starting fluid is fine IF the glow plugs are not being used as well--one or the other but not both. If your fuel system is allowing fuel to drain back to the tank then that needs to be addressed. If you fill the fuel filter in the evening is it still full in the morning?
On a 78 degree day with a tight fuel system, 2 good batteries, and a good starter you should be able to start the engine in less than 10 seconds without glow plugs. Even on a 55 degree morning my engine will fire up without glow plugs in about 7-8 seconds of cranking. Be careful to not overheat and kill your starter. 10 seconds of cranking generates a lot of heat.
On a 78 degree day with a tight fuel system, 2 good batteries, and a good starter you should be able to start the engine in less than 10 seconds without glow plugs. Even on a 55 degree morning my engine will fire up without glow plugs in about 7-8 seconds of cranking. Be careful to not overheat and kill your starter. 10 seconds of cranking generates a lot of heat.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
This is the issue. The clues of starting, running a few seconds, and that needing a lot of cranking with the starter to get it running says it all. If it was glow plugs, the engine would keep running after it initially starts.
IDIBOBS
Registered User
So if the plugs are good then starting fluid is bad…..? It’s always bad. It ignites not combusts. Starting fluid, ether ect is horrible for diesel engines. Just test things properly. And starting with out working glow plus even in 120deg weather is terrible and will result in unbury fuel, smoke, let my starts ect. I really wish shade tree mechanics would not post things that are not true and proper. It’s soooo easy to properly diagnose these engines with out hurting the motor.
Starting fluid is fine in limited quantities and mostly in emergency situations. Over use can crack pre cups and break piston rings.
As others have said, verify your glow plugs and controller are working as designed. The easiest way to test glow plugs is to use a test light. Light on means good.
As others have said, verify your glow plugs and controller are working as designed. The easiest way to test glow plugs is to use a test light. Light on means good.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Once again. Ignition is only the beginning of combustion.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
As I pointed out earlier, the glow plugs have noting to do with the start, run a few seconds, and die issue. The long starter cranking time is from trying to get fuel back to the engine so it can run again. You're also correct about the ether.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Sometimes somebody mentions one thing and then everyone else gets stuck on that one thing, right or wrong. In this case two things, glow plugs and ether. I'm not saying that there's not a glow plug problem, just that it's not at the top of the list if there is.I guess thats what I get for skimming instead of reading
You really didn't understand a word I wrote. Try again.
"
Starting Fluid/Ether in Diesel Engines with Glow Plugs
Ether/starting fluid is also not compatible with any diesel engine that features glow plugs or any form of intake heater (grid heaters, intake air heaters, etc). The glowing red hot tip of a glow plug provides more than enough heat to ignite starting fluid mixtures. As in the aforementioned case, there is no way to control the combustion of this fuel as it enters the cylinder and detonation is likely to occur." "This isn't rocket science.
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Black dawg
Registered User
My old worn out one starts the best in real cold on just the right amount of napa starting fluid, and glow plugs....lol. Not recomended if you have a decent engine.
If you use even 10% the amount of juice as peg does, you are probably using too much. Idi motors are much more sensitive to the amount, but if they start cleanly with no extra noises, I cant see ( and have never seen any proof or evidence) how it is hurting anything.
If you use even 10% the amount of juice as peg does, you are probably using too much. Idi motors are much more sensitive to the amount, but if they start cleanly with no extra noises, I cant see ( and have never seen any proof or evidence) how it is hurting anything.
So, glow plugs. Just pull them out and bench test them. Yeah its painful - on these engines, its the best way to figure out it. I found doing that more than once every gawd knows how long... helped find marginal ones... can't say it prevents broken tips from swollen tip ends (proving the neg), but I've not had a problem since...
After that is where the journey begins. Finding replacement plugs is a journey, you'll need to search and read the volume of posts on counterfit GPs. IF your issue is not marginal GPs, then you're searching for air intrusion, which is another journey with several paths. Replace the injector return lines, then start looking at the lines from the engine to the tanks - start with the air fuel separator particularly if its stock and never has been replaced.
Using ether - is really not something you should do. It was the only way to start mine - until I figured out the vacuum problem. In retrospect - its a shortcut we shouldn't take. Yes, it works. But to what end? If I'm stuck out in the wilds with few tools - you bet I will. In my garage with tools - never again.
For the simplicity of these engines, the find fix on the vacuum - can be quite difficult.
After that is where the journey begins. Finding replacement plugs is a journey, you'll need to search and read the volume of posts on counterfit GPs. IF your issue is not marginal GPs, then you're searching for air intrusion, which is another journey with several paths. Replace the injector return lines, then start looking at the lines from the engine to the tanks - start with the air fuel separator particularly if its stock and never has been replaced.
Using ether - is really not something you should do. It was the only way to start mine - until I figured out the vacuum problem. In retrospect - its a shortcut we shouldn't take. Yes, it works. But to what end? If I'm stuck out in the wilds with few tools - you bet I will. In my garage with tools - never again.
For the simplicity of these engines, the find fix on the vacuum - can be quite difficult.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
When replacing the GP`s, use Anti-Seiz on the Threads.
I tested mine yesterday with a test light. They all lighted up,
But doesn`t show you how hot the ends are.
I have Bench tested some in the past, they will turn to an almost white hot on the ends if good. Had some that turned red, but not all the way to the tip.
They can be OHM`d out also.
Not an expert on these things, but have been owned a Diesel since Oct 81.
Goat
I tested mine yesterday with a test light. They all lighted up,
But doesn`t show you how hot the ends are.
I have Bench tested some in the past, they will turn to an almost white hot on the ends if good. Had some that turned red, but not all the way to the tip.
They can be OHM`d out also.
Not an expert on these things, but have been owned a Diesel since Oct 81.
Goat
