Leaking return system, ideas?

dunk

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New pump and injectors installed, timed to 9*. Performance is impressive compared to my old clapped out pump, so far as I can tell on a quick test drive down the street. After sitting overnight it required a lot of cranking to start. Since then each start that it sat more than 10-15 mins required a bit of cranking, overnight a lot of cranking with a series of fire/stall before staying running. Starts immediately if started right after turning off.

Checked caps and noticed the straight through caps appear to sit higher than the 90* or dead end caps. None would push down more. Jiggled/wiggled/etc. A couple looked wet, maybe from bleeding injector lines. Removed two caps, replaced, let it sit an hour, started and took a little cranking but not so much as it had previously. I think one was a leaker and maybe sealed now, not sure about the rest.

4 new "olive" thick square cut orings installed. Two on feed line to pump and two on hard return line from pump to rear of engine. None of these fittings are wet or dripping.

Thinking maybe I should order some new orings and take it from the top? I lubricated them with oil, not vaseline (didn't have any). Installed with steady downward force and slight twisting motion. Is vaseline the key? Recommended orings? Something I'm missing?
 

Clb

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Often it takes a few to get all the air out, here's a short list to check.
Did the return caps "snap" on?
No pressure on the caps from a to long a line in between caps?
No tension on ip hard lines when tightened?
Fuel filter fresh and tight( didja check and lube the gasket?)
Viton o rings to much vasaline won't be a problem as o rings love to twist and or get jammed !
Cut o ring!
The pressure to get the cap started is rather great' the amount to get over the final step is greater!
 

IDIoit

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vaseoline is the choice method,
but i have never had a issue with white lithium spray, or wd-40

on sunday i timed @kcconfq 's truck after he did a IP and stick swap.
we noticed he had one leaking on #3, turned out to be a burr on the inside of the injector cap, that nicked the o-ring.
dont know what he used for lube initially tho, hope he chimes in
 

dunk

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No pressure on the caps from a to long a line in between caps?

I was very careful to cut the lines just a hair shy of touching so they would stay fairly neutral. I did relocate the crossover between banks to the front as suggested by instructions and use a T for the small line from the filter head. Front crossover is quite long and is routed underneath the IP, through as it sits it is pretty neutral. Could this be the problem?
 

Clb

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Returns are under light flow pressure so the flow back to tank should not be an issue with a longer line. air intrusion( search key word) can happen without an actual wet leak!
Lift pump leaking into block( search lift pump) long shot.
Anything you just did is suspect.
 

IDIoit

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i make it a point to delete any olives on any truck i work on.
i hate those things more than anything
 

kcconfq

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I used automotive air conditioning system o-ring lube. It's the anti KY as we like to call it.
 

dunk

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Also worth noting is I deburred all new caps. Several had some sharp edges of casting (molding?) flash which were removed before installing.

No hard start from drainback/air intrusion prior to IP and injectors. Has hard start from heat soak occasionally but it was clearly heat soak not air.

Thinking maybe new set of orings and vaseline the heck out of them. What size do I need? Is viton teh preferred material? Online supplier if none local?
 

crash-harris

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How did you remove the burrs?

Furthermore, what's the best way to remove burrs/casting ridges from the return caps?
 

Clb

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We should not have to fix the casting flash as the effing manufacturer should care and remove it from the manufacturing process as much as possible!
But corporate america's motto is "how fast can I make it cheap to be profitable".
The kit I got from russ was purty clean, I have not opened the one from mel yet.
Some vatozone china kits are rather ragged.

So dunk,,,, keep looking?!
 

IDIoit

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But corporate america's motto is "how fast can I make it cheap to be profitable".

more like how can we stay alive in a sweatshop market, when we ourselves cant run our business as a sweat shop.
workers rights?
they dont care when its overseas!
 

Morgonzo

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more like how can we stay alive in a sweatshop market, when we ourselves cant run our business as a sweat shop.
workers rights?
they dont care when its overseas!

Greed is an invisible acid, corrosive to all of society. Everything i do is on a tight budget, but i still do my best to choose/buy USA made anything when possible. I'm looking forward to getting Russ's kit to see if the Fleabay kit is different and junk. Here's my caps mocked up on my bench, I've since put on the rest of the clamps....

You must be registered for see images attach
 

riotwarrior

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Greed is an invisible acid, corrosive to all of society. Everything i do is on a tight budget, but i still do my best to choose/buy USA made anything when possible. I'm looking forward to getting Russ's kit to see if the Fleabay kit is different and junk. Here's my caps mocked up on my bench, I've since put on the rest of the clamps....

You must be registered for see images attach

Why, the high pressure fuel injection clamps???
 

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