Leaking return lines

DrCharles

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That is strange. I'd be looking for a restriction between the tank and the electric pump, or possibly between the pump and the IP. The 40285 pump is rated to provide far more fuel at 7 psi than our IDI's can consume, and has no problem lifting fuel a foot or two from the tanks.

Unless your dad is running some kind of huge pump and turbo?
 

franklin2

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I have never had much issue with my multiple IDI's. They have all had leaky fuel systems to. As long as I had good glow plugs, or the right amount of go juice, they come to life in almost any temperature and 9 times out of 10 don't have too much rough starts.

Even if your lift pump was letting fuel in the supply line between the filter head and the lift pump leak down, your filter would still have enough fuel for starting, it would just run rough after a few seconds. Even if you put the filter in dry it doesn't take a ton of cranking to get the low side system primed. I have a gear reduction starter on my current IDI, if I wanted to I could do every fuel filter replacement without pre filling the filter

Check valves are not needed, you can put one in your fuel system and feel all warm and fuzzy about it, but if an IDI needs a check valve to 'assist' starting and running, there is probably another issue this check valve is band-aiding (or fixing depending on how you look at it)

Besides, the old crowd that use to dominate this forum would almost always swap for a holley pump, an electric lift pump makes all this talk moot. If you are that concerned, spend some cash money and go electric. Running the mechanical pump you run the slight risk of fuel intrusion into the oil pan if the pump does fail that way one day.

I don't know what you guys are doing, but I have always had the classic start and run for 10 seconds and then stop with any leak in the system. Of course it will eventually start and run rough, but who wants to do all that cranking? I did have it started and it was running.

The last time I had this problem it was the o-ring around the fuel heater that is mounted on top of the filter head. Let it sit for a week, go out and start it, and it would start right up, run a little rough and then clear up. Let it sit for 2 weeks, go out it would start right up run for about 5-10 seconds and then quit. Go out, no fuel squirting out of the shraeder valve. Crank, crank, crank and it would finally start and be fine. The trick of parking it on a hill with the front facing down works well till you figure out whats wrong and get time to fix it.

I can see a electric fuel pump helping the problem, but I would think it would still take awhile for it to push all the air out of the system.
 

Thewespaul

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The only problem I have with an electric pump is varying pressure. If your e-pump will hold a consistant pressure from idle to WOT(within 3 psi), awesome. Unfortunately, I haven't seen that - my Dad's '88 wity facet duralift pushing 7 at idle and 0 at WOT. Really messes with the timing under load.
You need a good fp regulator, I personally don’t like the duralifts and prefer the holleys or even the mr gasket 105p. The part number for the reg in my signature holds 6psi under any throttle position even with a hot ip
 

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