Leaking fuel tank selector valve?

[Cubey]

I'll see your 538 and raise you to 600.
The aftermarket one I got off Amazon has more than 12k miles on it and it's doing fine. Came with its own plug and remarkably decent wiring diagrams to tie into existing wires. Not color for color, that would have been too easy. Of course, I'm not certain if the fsv is different for a van compared to a truck.

I'm pretty sure it's the same valve. Same connector, same pinout.

The $539 oreilly one is $400 on rockauto, but good luck getting warranty on it. the $80 autozone aftermarket one worked fine for the 2.5 years I ran it before selling

 

[tbowker]

the $80 autozone aftermarket one worked fine for the 2.5 years I ran it before selling

I don't remember where I got mine from but $80 sounds about right to me. I know I ordered it and did not get it locally.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

When I first got my truck, someone had put masking tape over the legend for front and rear tank and used black marker to indicate front and rear. So when I changed out my fsv I made sure to wire it according to the tape. WRONG!!! It took a decent amount of goo gone to remove the adhesive so that I could read the original legend, but now the switch is backwards to which tank it's actually on.
I haven't gotten under there to change it yet but I lose my mind each time I look at the switch. I soldered and used heat shrink on all the connections, ugh.

If it were me I wouldn't cut the soldered wires to switch them around. I would figure out which wires need to be where and unpin the connector to switch them.

James

 

[12pilgrim]

This one has been flawless for me the 3yrs since I installed it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08B3VCZVG/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A29CJJ2HZL47LM&psc=1

 

[tbowker]

If it were me I wouldn't cut the soldered wires to switch them around. I would figure out which wires need to be where and unpin the connector to switch them.

James

That's a better idea! I already have the dash apart and it's not like I'm going to get rid of the truck so the next owner can trash talk how dumb I was.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

so the next owner can trash talk how dumb I was.

I was thinking more along the lines of repinning it at the selector valve where the mixup happened but at the switch would work also.

If you opt to make the changes at the switch, write down exactly what you did for future reference. After you change it at the switch a factory wiring diagram will useless for future issues if you don't remember exactly what you changed.

James

 

[tbowker]

I was thinking more along the lines of repinning it at the selector valve where the mixup happened

That does make more sense. Confine it to one area instead of being "that guy" with jacked up wiring everywhere you look. Hopefully it doesn't require some funky pin out tool to swap out the offending wires. I saved the original wiring diagram that came with the new fsv so I can just annotate on there for future reference. I'm all for not soldering and heat shrinking again if I can avoid it. Thanks.

 

[Old Goat]

And this is how much the direct fit valve costs. $539

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/engine-sensors---emissions/engine-switches/fuel-tank-selector-valve/283cad0bdf30/standard-ignition-5-terminal-fuel-tank-selector-valve/std0/fv11/v/a/5205/automotive-van-1989-ford-e-350-econoline-club-wagon?q=fuel+tank+selector+valve&pos=1

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Probably made in China like all of them,
and way over priced.


Goat

 

[Old Goat]

Just as an update - and in case it helps anyone else down the line - here's what happened.....

The leaking fuel selector valve on my 1986 F250 6.9 turned out to be a Pollak, although I don't see a model number. While I'm not sure if it was the original valve, the wiring harness certainly did look like it was original to the truck. Neither the style of the valve or the harness matched what any online or in-store reference pulled up for the truck, and did not fit. So perhaps Ford changed the FSV mid-way through the 1986 year?

But if it helps anyone, I ended up buying a Dorman DOR 904-454 (the same valve I was snarky about, above....) and a Standard Ignition STD S544 wiring harness.

The valve matched right up but of course I had to connect the new harness to the old wiring. Worth noting that the new harness has six connectors whereas the valve only needs five. Just leave one disconnected - by comparing the harness to the valve you'll see the prongs on the valve aren't centered - and the female connector on the harness to ignore will be obvious. I just snipped the wire.

Not sure about wiring colors on other years or trucks but attached is a photo of my old harness. I just copied the order over to the new harness (making sure to have it facing the same direction...), leaving the single side prong in question unconnected. It is as follows, with the harness oriented as in the photo:

(Blank, on the new harness - imagine it to the left of the brown in the photo)
Brown/white
Red
Blue/yellow
Yellow/white
Yellow/green

I didn't need to drain the tanks, I just took off the rear tank quick connectors and stuck them in a bucket and let them slowly drain while I quickly moved the front tank and feed connectors across. A little messy but not too bad.

All seems well. I haven't had time to drive the truck yet but I've run it idling for a while and taken it up to 2000 rpm and no leaks, and the truck seems to run fine. The fuel gauge works as it should.

I'll add more details here if any issues pop up. Fingers very much crossed.

If this valve does go south I'm definitely leaning toward bypassing it or adding in the manual in-cab valve.

I hate all fuel line retaining clips.

Thanks for all the help along the way.

That connector you posted is the old style Ford must have used early on.
My 86 had the same plug. As I remember I broke off one of the clips, and
was looking for a new one, even went to PNP poking around and came up
with a different style. So Ford must have changed to a different style later on.

If you look up.
Standard Motor Products S-544

or Standard Motor products S-544 Ignition Control Moduel Connector

it will be the same thing, can be listed either way, and was used in different
vehicle brands.
It`s an exact fit for the original Ford FSV, the one shown with the orange
and yellow caps.

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-Electrical-Pigtails/dp/B009IK703I

Goat

​

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That connector you posted is the old style Ford must have used early on.

So Ford must have changed to a different style later on.

They did make that change. I don't remember what the changes was/were, but it seems like it was one of those "made before this date/made after that date" things. It foes seem like the early style was getting harder to find even in the late 90's.

 

[Rupert8]

And this is how much the direct fit valve costs. $539

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/engine-sensors---emissions/engine-switches/fuel-tank-selector-valve/283cad0bdf30/standard-ignition-5-terminal-fuel-tank-selector-valve/std0/fv11/v/a/5205/automotive-van-1989-ford-e-350-econoline-club-wagon?q=fuel+tank+selector+valve&pos=1

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For what it's worth that specific valve is the one which all the websites say will fit my '86 - but it doesn't. Note the different placement on the connectors and the bolt holes don't line up.

I'm aware we're talking about a part for a 38-year old truck so I'm not complaining, just clarifying to hopefully save someone some time in the future, finding the right part. While making things work is definitely a lost art these days, it's always good to have a direct replacement when you have the option.

Yes, it would seem that the part changed at some point during this year.

I've attached a photo of the pump I took off my truck. It's a Pollak so maybe not the original one, please note. (The harness looked original.) Note the difference between this one and the one in the link quoted.

 

[Rupert8]

And here's the one that was a direct swap. Time will tell.....

 

[Cubey]

The older style I showed is also Pollak. For some reason it had two different printed instruments, and one said Pollak, as I recall.

I haven't crawled under and checked the valve on this 89 E350 since it's currently working, but RockAuto is showing the older style for it.

The connector is different but the pin out is the same.

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On the '85 RV with the old style, from top to bottom as seen in following picture. That's the same as the newer style shown in the above diagram.

#5 green - rear sender
#4 yellow - fuel gauge
#3 light green - front sender
#2 red - power
#1 brown - power

The two sender wires are different colors vs trucks but the other 3 are the same.

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1, 2, 4 same colors, 3 & 5 different colors but same pins.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[XOLATEM]

I'm all for not soldering and heat shrinking again if I can avoid it. Thanks.

Aw, C'mon...I was told that 'Pain and misery was good for the soul...'

You are already halfway there, aren't you..?

Just tell me when you get started...and I'll start praying for you...or start doing a rain or snow dance...or something....burnt offering..?

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[tbowker]

Aw, C'mon...I was told that 'Pain and misery was good for the soul...'

If it builds character then I am on the road to success, since I've been labeled a character countless times.

Just tell me when you get started...and I'll start praying for you...or start doing a rain or snow dance...or something....burnt offering..?

I just ordered a pin out tool set last night and also 2/0 welding cable and positive/ negative battery terminal clamps for a little electrical upgrade. Pray that I'm not the burnt offering when I finish this task.