Key won't shut off engine

[chillman88]

Those two yellow wires are a very common fire point. They melt the connector near the valve cover. I ran a 4ga wire from the battery to the controller using a 200amp fuse and haven't had any trouble. Just bypass those wires like I did and you should be good to go.

 

[Selahdoor]

Sounding to me like your glow plug controller is sending straight to ground, instead of to the GPs.

 

[frankenwrench]

Sounding to me like your glow plug controller is sending straight to ground, instead of to the GPs.

I'm not sure what u mean

 

[Selahdoor]

The white wire is a ground. It grounds the solenoid so that the solenoid then gives power to the GPs.

When you do that, the two yellow wires start to melt. That is like taking those two yellow wires and putting them straight to ground. They carry full battery voltage. Take those off of the solenoid, and directly ground them back to the battery, and they will melt like that.

This ONLY happens when you switch the solenoid. Which then connects the yellow wire post, with the other main post.

It's possible that your GP harness is grounded straight to ground somewhere. Not just feeding the glow plugs. That would essentially be the same as running the yellow wires straight to ground.

It's possible the solenoid is grounded out somehow. I don't know how.

It's possible the ribbon is grounded. Maybe there is a problem inside the controller? The bolt that goes through the other end of the ribbon (opposite end form the solenoid), also goes down into the controller. Maybe it has burned through something down there and grounded itself out?

I'd think your next step is to remove the controller from the truck and examine it thoroughly. Look for signs of burning.




Gotta say, this is part of why I am going to make my own GP solenoid circuit. My controller or solenoid just recently went out. GPs are not working. Before it went out, my voltage meter on the dash was acting wonky. After it went out, my voltage meter is back to normal.

This makes me think the GP controller is a risk. Specifically a fire risk. And your experience only strengthens that suspicion.

And I especially dislike that all of that is buried down behind the intake and under the air cleaner. When I build mine, I am putting it right out in the open where I can see it and get at it.

 

[frankenwrench]

Ok so I found my main ground from battery to block not only loose, but trashed with a lovely mix of the white green powdery **** mixed with black tar from a previous oil leak. Replaced it as well as the smaller wire from block to frame. Got 6 foot of 4 guage wire to run in place of the yellow wires directly to hot side of driver side battery. Hopefully this will kill the issue

 

[frankenwrench]

Well I'll be a sob... Everything works now! Tickled phukin pink! The gp relay doesn't do that whine thing it used to but I can feel it click on and off. Wait to start light only stays on for like 5-7 seconds now, none of the wires are getting hot, but for ***** and gigs I want to pull the bullet tips and hook up my test light while they are cycling to make sure juice is going to the glow plugs. Got to bleed the fuel lines and see how she does. Put the up timing marks were they were before so hopefully I don't have to jack with it much

 

[frankenwrench]

Well I finally got it to start but now I have no tach. may have to play with timing cuz it does sound like it's missing and I've let all the air out of the lines.
Turns out I was looking at the wrong ***** out of all of the ones that have been made. Lol. Didn't fix the tach after adjustment, but the engine is alot smoother sounding and running a bit cooler so that's always a plus.

 

[frankenwrench]

Wrong nitch, not the other previously mentioned. Auto correct just made my language bad for me! Lol. Not that I wasn't thinking it, just didn't mean to say it. Bout to throw in the towel as far as being timed perfectly, and tach working, but may make that @Thewespaul problem. I'm sure wen the cash comes he won't mind taking a bit of it.

 

[dgr]

Soooo..... The key shuts off the engine now? You took the long way around

 

[frankenwrench]

Soooo..... The key shuts off the engine now? You took the long way around

Lol. Maybe. But it's better than stalling it every time I want it to turn off. Or pulling that spade off the ip. But I am sure stumped on my tach not working now wen it worked wonderfully before. Pulled the plug and cleaned it off and even inspected the wires were they go into the plug and they were still pretty good. Maybe the auto trans wiring needs something auto.plugged in to send signal to dash? Idk. Cause all the wiring looked wonderful so I don't believe that something is wrong with that wiring. I drive by sound anyways so as long as it shuts off with key and key turns off my instrument cluster so here in 2 or 3 hours my batteries aren't completely dead and have to waste half an hour charging it to go home after work. ALL THIS STARTED DUE TO WANTING MY GLOW PLUGS TO WORK AGAIN. But they work wonderfully now su to hell with it. No tach isn't gonna kill me for a while.