goldsjos18
Full Access Member
All right so I have a 100 gallon fuel tank that is going to be bolted to the bed of my truck so my next question is how would you guys route the plumbing into the tank of the truck ..... I have no selector valve
Jockey tank to fuel tank plumbing
- Thread starter goldsjos18
- Start date
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Buy a selector valve would be my first option? They are only about $50, and you already have the wiring and switch to support it.
@ReticulateSplines has a cool setup for this
ReticulateSplines
Registered User
I do, works great, easy and cheap, works on its own without needing to run wires. I just stepped in the shop though so let me get things knocked out and ill report back
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Years ago, I saw a guy who I worked with do something similar to our boss's truck, although the tank was MUCH smaller. He installed a valve that allowed fuel flow when power was fed to it. He used a toggle switch inside the cab to activate it. Power on, fuel flow. Fuel gauge reads full, flip the toggle switch to "off". I don't know where the valve was from, but I'd bet that there's several different generic ones.
ReticulateSplines
Registered User
Long story short - I have a ball valve on my aux tank that controls fuel flow out of it. After that valve the fuel line goes through a float valve that then dumps directly into the fuel filler line that fills my front tank. The float valve is lower than the front tanks fill location so when the tank is full the float valve keeps the aux tank from flowing. It works great, the dash reads full until the auxiliary tank is empty then reads as normal.
Short story long....
So I built a flatbed on my truck and moved the dual fill necks to one location just behind the cab. This required a good length of fuel filler hose and some creativity but it basically gave me 2 long hoses - from cab to each tanks inlet.
I bought an auxiliary tank and mounted it to the flatbed close to the cab, near my now re-positioned filler caps. The outlet of the auxiliary tank is the lowest bung and I doped in a fitting that is a ball valve with hose barb.
Then from that valve I ran 3/8 tubing down below the flatbed deck and into one of those long hoses that I installed while relocating the filler necks. To do that I cut new hose clean and square and inserted a custom made Tee fitting. It consists of a stainless pipe that I "barbed" the ends of to clamp the fuel filler hose onto and welded a bung in the wall of the pipe. That bung is threaded to accept a float valve. When the fuel level is below the float valve, fuel drips on in there. I used this setup for 3500 mile trip and then another 3k after before I needed the bed space back but I left my valve in place.
There is a company that sells kits for this setup but they do not offer them in the appropriate size pipe for my fuel filler necks and they were very ****** welds of Aluminum pipe so I made it myself of stainless.
If you are interested in this setup get in touch and we can work out the details.
Short story long....
So I built a flatbed on my truck and moved the dual fill necks to one location just behind the cab. This required a good length of fuel filler hose and some creativity but it basically gave me 2 long hoses - from cab to each tanks inlet.
I bought an auxiliary tank and mounted it to the flatbed close to the cab, near my now re-positioned filler caps. The outlet of the auxiliary tank is the lowest bung and I doped in a fitting that is a ball valve with hose barb.
Then from that valve I ran 3/8 tubing down below the flatbed deck and into one of those long hoses that I installed while relocating the filler necks. To do that I cut new hose clean and square and inserted a custom made Tee fitting. It consists of a stainless pipe that I "barbed" the ends of to clamp the fuel filler hose onto and welded a bung in the wall of the pipe. That bung is threaded to accept a float valve. When the fuel level is below the float valve, fuel drips on in there. I used this setup for 3500 mile trip and then another 3k after before I needed the bed space back but I left my valve in place.
There is a company that sells kits for this setup but they do not offer them in the appropriate size pipe for my fuel filler necks and they were very ****** welds of Aluminum pipe so I made it myself of stainless.
If you are interested in this setup get in touch and we can work out the details.
ReticulateSplines
Registered User
Long story short - I have a ball valve on my aux tank that controls fuel flow out of it. After that valve the fuel line goes through a float valve that then dumps directly into the fuel filler line that fills my front tank. The float valve is lower than the front tanks fill location so when the tank is full the float valve keeps the aux tank from flowing. It works great, the dash reads full until the auxiliary tank is empty then reads as normal.
Short story long....
So I built a flatbed on my truck and moved the dual fill necks to one location just behind the cab. This required a good length of fuel filler hose and some creativity but it basically gave me 2 long hoses - from cab to each tanks inlet.
I bought an auxiliary tank and mounted it to the flatbed close to the cab, near my now re-positioned filler caps. The outlet of the auxiliary tank is the lowest bung and I doped in a fitting that is a ball valve with hose barb.
Then from that valve I ran 3/8 tubing down below the flatbed deck and into one of those long hoses that I installed while relocating the filler necks. To do that I cut new hose clean and square and inserted a custom made Tee fitting. It consists of a stainless pipe that I "barbed" the ends of to clamp the fuel filler hose onto and welded a bung in the wall of the pipe. That bung is threaded to accept a float valve. When the fuel level is below the float valve, fuel drips on in there. I used this setup for 3500 mile trip and then another 3k after before I needed the bed space back but I left my valve in place.
There is a company that sells kits for this setup but they do not offer them in the appropriate size pipe for my fuel filler necks and they were very ****** welds of Aluminum pipe so I made it myself of stainless.
If you are interested in this setup get in touch and we can work out the details.
Short story long....
So I built a flatbed on my truck and moved the dual fill necks to one location just behind the cab. This required a good length of fuel filler hose and some creativity but it basically gave me 2 long hoses - from cab to each tanks inlet.
I bought an auxiliary tank and mounted it to the flatbed close to the cab, near my now re-positioned filler caps. The outlet of the auxiliary tank is the lowest bung and I doped in a fitting that is a ball valve with hose barb.
Then from that valve I ran 3/8 tubing down below the flatbed deck and into one of those long hoses that I installed while relocating the filler necks. To do that I cut new hose clean and square and inserted a custom made Tee fitting. It consists of a stainless pipe that I "barbed" the ends of to clamp the fuel filler hose onto and welded a bung in the wall of the pipe. That bung is threaded to accept a float valve. When the fuel level is below the float valve, fuel drips on in there. I used this setup for 3500 mile trip and then another 3k after before I needed the bed space back but I left my valve in place.
There is a company that sells kits for this setup but they do not offer them in the appropriate size pipe for my fuel filler necks and they were very ****** welds of Aluminum pipe so I made it myself of stainless.
If you are interested in this setup get in touch and we can work out the details.
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