ip marks
- Thread starter jtate
- Start date
hypermax22
sled puller
ain't it suppose to be in line with the mark on the cam like the 7.3 the two dots are suppose to line up and thats your timeing mark?
IDIeselman
Registered User
You should be fine if you advance it about the width of a dime. You should notice a little more rattle and a little more power, pay close attentiom while going down the road for a sound similar to spark knock in a gasser, If you hear this pull it back just a skoach and you will be fine.
Mr_Roboto
Full Access Member
You really can't go by the marks unless you still have the factory original IP. My guess is that the marks are made by a guy and a chisel, and probably aren't all in the exact same spot anyways.
Basically at the factory the IP is timed, and then the mark is made. If you swap IP's from 2 motors and re-time them, the marks will probably not line up.
Basically at the factory the IP is timed, and then the mark is made. If you swap IP's from 2 motors and re-time them, the marks will probably not line up.
h2odrx
Anti-O
I'll be facing this soon, there are no marks on my ip so i'm going to have to guess?
zigg
Full Access Member
This is exactly right. The marks are only there for reference. Once the pump is moved or changed, the marks mean very little. When you assemble an engine, the marks on the gears internally allow you to get the pump into position enough to get the engine to run(static timing) and then once you properly time the engine with a meter, or pulse adapter, and get the timing exact(dynamic timing), essentially you could/should re mark the pump for future reference.
That's the basics. There's much more to it though. Each injector will pop open and shoot fuel at a certain pressure, so as the injectors and pump wear, then each injector is popping at a different pressure, and therefore some may be shooting fuel before others in the cycle, therefore that particular cylinder would be more advanced than another that pops later, so the timing of the pump is really only getting an average of all the cylinders. Further, since the timing is done on #1 cylinder, this means that you are setting the timing for the whole engine based on the timing for the #1 cylinder.
So, basically the line allows you to get the engine started. If your pump and injectors are fairly new, and running efficiently, then you need to get the timing set by meter or pulse method, and then this would be as close as you could get. Some say you can set the timing by ear, but it is likely not really very accurate. The amount and colour of the smoke can be a clue, but also not really accurate.
If you fool around with it, you run the risk of running advanced/retarded or hot/cold, and either situation isn't good for the engine and especially for efficiency/economy...
Just my .02
zigg
swampdigger
Full Access Member
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...tegoryZ43989QQihZ005QQitemZ150089774272QQrdZ1
It has an optic sensor which plugs into one of your glowplug holes.
It has an optic sensor which plugs into one of your glowplug holes.
i know yesterday imoved it about a dimes width to the passenger side of the mark. itmakes alot more noise now when you firs start it up, but it quiets up as it warms up and it doesnt smoke quite as bad as it did when you rev it up, and kind of sounds like it runs better. another thing i did notice is wright off of idle it kind of makes a little more of that diesl knock. i mean as soon as it comes off of idle its like a spark knock in a gasser. the motor warms up a lot faster now.
IDIeselman
Registered User
If you hear this pull it back just a skoach and you will be fine.[/QUOTE]
Timing is a little too far advance. Knock above idle on an IDI is not a good thing.
Les,
I put some notes together when I did the timing on my van - check my web site. Keep in mind that the pulse type uses a different degree offset than the luminosity probe type. Basically the pulse seems to run best between 8 and 8.5 degrees before TDC, and the luminosity probe seems to run best in the 1.5 to 2 degrees after TDC. These are just starting points depends on the age of the pump and injectors.
man i tell you i hate to touch it, last night i drove it for the first time after i advanced the pump. man you talk about a big difference it will get up and go and still has more power to spare. it starts up better and doesnt smoke near as much. it just still has that little rattle wright off of idle and after it gets to around 1000rpm,s purs like a kitten and as smooth as can be. it hasnt ran this good since i owned it. the only thing is if its not supposed to do this i guess ill have to back it up a little. what a pitty!
Does it sound like your rattling a couple of oily steel marbles in your hand real fast when you start off or hit slack on a straightaway then give it fuel? Do you get a very light puff of black smoke when you gun it in neutral? if so your probably right around where mine is @ 2* atdc (lumy probe) - done good!
When I hit a steep hill running 60/65 I might have to give her a little more fuel but I can hold the speed! You might also find that while the mpg's may not improve empty, loaded they'll jump up 4/5 mpg’s (I went from 8 to 13+ loaded to the hilt).
never realy noticed anything driving down the road, its when your sitting there idleing and you just pat the throttle real fast and let it off, or you start pushing down on the petal and as its coming off idle it sound like your rattling steel balls in a paint can.
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