IP leaking

[02x72]

So my IP is leaking significantly from the throttle arm bracket. Its kinda weird because the truck runs great and does not have any signs of air intrusion. I'd hate to have to buy a new one because of this, the truck runs great, just leaks like crazy. Is it possible to replace that o-ring I can see on there, or what?

 

[icanfixall]

Yes is the short answer but.... You knew there would be a buttt...... If the shaft the o-rings rides on is worn and ruff it wont last long at all. Give it a try and see how long it lasts. I'll find the rebuild kit and get back to this....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-F...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b6f25526

 

[02x72]

Ok, so just check to see that its still round and smooth, got it. Is that kit available from the dealer by chance, either Ford or the IH dealer? Kinda need the truck running ASAP. Thanks, I appreciate the help

 

[Agnem]

I could repair that for you if you don't want a full rebuild. Not sure what the cost would be. Probably around $100 when it's all said and done. However, if the pump has 80-100K on it, it's really not worth fooling with. Just get a rebuild.

 

[icanfixall]

I agree with what Mel posed. Getting the pump of themotor isthe big part of fixing it. Doing just one problem repair may not fix any worn internal issues so if the mileage is up there just have it rebuilt by Mel... Or replace the pump with a known rebuilder that is trusted on this forum.... Some don't require a core nor do they require a fee for one....

 

[02x72]

I took it apart yesterday and tried to fix the leak, which I'm pretty sure I did, but seem to have messed it up somehow. It ranaway when I got it started, so i took it apart again to look at it and now it wont start at all. So, I'm pretty sure I broke the IP somehow. I'm gonna put a spare pump on it and see if it starts, and if so I'll need to get a good rebuilt one. Pensacola seems to be the best price I have seen, but some guys have had issues with them. Mel, what would it cost to get it rebuilt, just to stock specs, nothing too advanced?

 

[icanfixall]

Sorry about you issues but... Before you buy from anyone... Please think about what your getting for your money. Its true some have had trouble with pensacola and dieselcareless but some have not... The have nots a very few for sure. Nobody has ever had any problems with Mell or Russ... In the cheap market place you get what your paying for. Please don't feel I'm strongarming you towards mel or russ. I understand cost shopping. I will bit on something up to 40 or 50% of the list price... If I get it fine... If not so what... I'm known on this forum for posting great deals I have found... Some I buy myself. I just paid around $50.00 for a $440.00 psd fuel filter housing as a spare... That was an increditable buy... The other same housing I paid just $49.00 for it.... Plus times two on that... Just be careful about buying from the lowest cost seller. It may not last long because of the type of parts and the workmanship of the rebuild... There is a reason for an enexpensive rebuild....

 

[OLDBULL8]

This may help you. A runaway is not good. When you put the solenoid cover back on, leave it about 3/8" to the 2 bolt end then slide it forward.

 

[02x72]

Im all too aware of the "you get what you pay for" deal. I'd love to get a pump from Mel of Russ, or any of the other reputable guys on here for that matter, but from what I understand those can cost upwards of $800 which is more than I have to spend. The $350 or so is still a stretch, but I need the truck to run so I'm stuck. Plus, I know Pensacola or the like doesn't have the best pumps, but if you get one that is broken or not working, they will make it right, I've seen that firsthand. So if anyone knows or an affordable, good rebuild available, let me know, I'd appreciate it

 

[02x72]

Ok, that pic does help. The problem with putting it on like that is that the FSS hits the IP, making you have to go down at an angle. Either way, after the runaway I made sure that arm was in front of that bracket. I do have two questions however. I circled them to make it easier to understand:

You must be registered for see images

By kurt2620 at 2010-12-06
For #1 Does that little spring loaded arm connect to anything in that circle. On my IP its just sitting on top of the rod coming through the back.
For #2 I can move that whole assembly back and forth from the end of the large rod to the front of the IP, is that right, or should it stay firm against that rod?

 

[hesutton]

I took it apart yesterday and tried to fix the leak, which I'm pretty sure I did, but seem to have messed it up somehow. It ranaway when I got it started, so i took it apart again to look at it and now it wont start at all. So, I'm pretty sure I broke the IP somehow.

???????? WHAT??!!!!! Seriously????

Gotta leave those IP's alone. I've seen two taken down to bare parts at two different Rallies.......... funny thing is............ They were left in a box for a rebuilder to put back together. Way to many things to completely screw up for average "Joe" to mess with........ at least in my opinion.

Well.......... guess it's time for a rebuild.

Heath

 

[02x72]

Gotta leave those IP's alone. I've seen two taken down to bare parts at two different Rallies.......... funny thing is............ They were left in a box for a rebuilder to put back together. Way to many things to completely screw up for average "Joe" to mess with........ at least in my opinion.

I looked at it this way. The o-ring that needed replacing looked like an easy enough job. I figured, that if I was careful I could do the job myself and save a few hundred $$$. If I couldn't do it, I would still need to get a new IP. Thought it was worth a shot. What I underestimated was just how touchy these things were. I should have just left it alone and got a rebuilt one. Hindsight's 20/20

 

[icanfixall]

I hope this is a quality rebuild but I just don't know anything more than whats posted here.... Another member just bought one of these and he will be installing it when he gets it. About 2 weeks...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PUMP...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[OLDBULL8]

Ok, that pic does help. The problem with putting it on like that is that the FSS hits the IP, making you have to go down at an angle. Either way, after the runaway I made sure that arm was in front of that bracket. I do have two questions however. I circled them to make it easier to understand:

You must be registered for see images

By kurt2620 at 2010-12-06
For #1 Does that little spring loaded arm connect to anything in that circle. On my IP its just sitting on top of the rod coming through the back.
For #2 I can move that whole assembly back and forth from the end of the large rod to the front of the IP, is that right, or should it stay firm against that rod?

These IP's are too complicated to try and explane how they should be. If you would misunderstand any thing I would say, it's quite possible to have a runaway engine again, and they will self destruct in short order. Why don't you take the FSS cover off the other one you have and compare them. The pic I showed you, has the screw for torque adjust, kind of hard to see in the lower right hand corner.

 

[Agnem]

You had a runaway????

How did you stop it?

Is there even a motor worth trying to put a pump on now?

PM me if you want info on pricing.