mabc926
Mojo
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IP help
- Thread starter mabc926
- Start date
Yes it will mess the timing up. See if this link works.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...rTitle=Injection+Pump&partId=0900c15280262d81
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...rTitle=Injection+Pump&partId=0900c15280262d81
argve
Resident Fruitcake
to remove the injection pump off the truck...
Remove the electrical connections.
Remove the fuel supply and return lines.
Leave the inejction lines attached the pump - they will come off with the pump.
Loosen the front access cover bolts on the oval cover - and then take loose the three bolts that hold the drive gear to the pump shaft.
DO NOT
I REPEAT
DO NOT REMOVE THE COVER OVER THE GEAR THAT THE PUMP ATTACHES TO....
Now loosen the three nuts that hold the pump to the housing (this is the housing that you DO NOT TAKE OFF!
oh don't forget to unhook the throttle cables off the pump.
Wiggle pump out.
If you are putting the same pump back on take note of how it's timed/clocked to the housing. There will be a line stamped between the pump and housing. This is a mark that gets stamped on them when a new pump is installed and timed. If installing a new to you pump (rebuilt, used or new) this mark will mean nothing to that pump and after it's timed a new mark will be stamped.
Some guys will loosen the pump lines at the pump but I find this to be too hard to reach the lower lines and get them tight, I have always just pulled the pump and lines as one unit and installed them the same way. It's much easier to access the lower lines when it's on the bench than on the truck.
You are in Richmond which isn't all that far from me (south side of indy) - if you want I have some free time next week (Weds and Thursday) and we could meet up and I can help ya pull it. Shouldn't take long at all.
You will need I think it's a 5/16 12 point socket for the pump to gear bolts.
Remove the electrical connections.
Remove the fuel supply and return lines.
Leave the inejction lines attached the pump - they will come off with the pump.
Loosen the front access cover bolts on the oval cover - and then take loose the three bolts that hold the drive gear to the pump shaft.
DO NOT
I REPEAT
DO NOT REMOVE THE COVER OVER THE GEAR THAT THE PUMP ATTACHES TO....
Now loosen the three nuts that hold the pump to the housing (this is the housing that you DO NOT TAKE OFF!
oh don't forget to unhook the throttle cables off the pump.
Wiggle pump out.
If you are putting the same pump back on take note of how it's timed/clocked to the housing. There will be a line stamped between the pump and housing. This is a mark that gets stamped on them when a new pump is installed and timed. If installing a new to you pump (rebuilt, used or new) this mark will mean nothing to that pump and after it's timed a new mark will be stamped.
Some guys will loosen the pump lines at the pump but I find this to be too hard to reach the lower lines and get them tight, I have always just pulled the pump and lines as one unit and installed them the same way. It's much easier to access the lower lines when it's on the bench than on the truck.
You are in Richmond which isn't all that far from me (south side of indy) - if you want I have some free time next week (Weds and Thursday) and we could meet up and I can help ya pull it. Shouldn't take long at all.
You will need I think it's a 5/16 12 point socket for the pump to gear bolts.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
The only way to ensure it is timed right is to set it with the tools either with the luminosity method or the pulse method. You may be close to a member who has the timing tools. Most people won't loan out timing stuff, because in many cases these tools are obsolete and can't easily be replaced, on the other hand myself and all the other members I know who have tools rarely use their stuff and would be glad to time an engine for another OB member if they're reasonably close. Wish you lived closer, I'd be willing to help.
argve
Resident Fruitcake
ah ha someone else that has to drive somewhere to work on something - love it.... I have to drive 45 mins one way to work on my stuff - I have my tools stored up at my buddies shop - but it's worth it - his shop is heated and air conditioned 
gandalf
Senior Member
Mel wrote a good article which includes instructions to remove the IP. I did it just a week ago, in order to send it to Russ for a rebuild.
The article includes much more than IP removal, but that part is at the beginning. It's worth reading.
Me's Fuel system article
My only word of caution is that you will need a special wrench to remove those 3 9/16" nuts.
