Insulating your "junk"...

[Clb]

I had in a prior life a 67 f100 I got off a body man dropped on 50 series rubber,,,( his toy) not much was stock as to the tin ,frenched everything wheelwells treated ect. The hood was covered in 3 different size louvers, with a bigblock and ac It would NEVER run hot pulling in summer heat.
Fwiw

 

[79jasper]

A little bracing here and there, I bet it'd work. The hmmwv are fiberglass.

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[BR3]

I'm just too lazy to cut and re brace the steel haha.

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[DaytonaBill]

There should be a seal on the top of the firewall that's supposed to seal up the rear hood seam. That seal serves two purposes...first, it's supposed to keep rainwater from getting into the intake (without the seal, it's actually possible on a n/a engine for rainwater to get through that seam and collect on top of the air filter can, and if the rubber seal on the wingnut is not in good shape, rainwater can get into the intake and potentially hydrolock the engine ).

Second, I'm pretty sure it's supposed to keep hot air from escaping the engine compartment through that seam and letting that hot engine compartment air be sucked into the cowl. So, if that seal's missing and especially if the rear of the hood is sticking up any, that could be a big part of why you're getting hot air in the cowl, and therefore into the vent.

For that matter, how's your upper firewall insulation?

Just ordered new seal minutes ago...

The firewall insulation is in good condition...

Now that I've had the chance to see what difference insulating the junk makes, I can honestly say that vent temps are about five degrees cooler, even the cab does cool down more by the time I get home.

The next step is to install two 10" E-fans on the condenser and hook a relay to the A/C switch so they come on when the A/C is on.

It will be nice to sit in traffic without having to turn A/C off. Something happened (fan clutch probably) and it will pop off soon unless I start moving again.

I need to evacuate the gas, drain compressor, blow nitrogen and flush throughout system, install orange orifice tube, pull vac and let it sit overnite, then replenish oil, pull vac again, install 26.4 OZ of gas and voila!

Freshly serviced A/C with two new add ons... E-fans and orange orifice tube...

Must have icicles and snotcicles... The next two months are the hottest of the year here in Orlando...

 

[The Warden]

Just ordered new seal minutes ago...

You got the "Hood to Cowl" seal, right? Like #1 in the top-left diagram on here: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=27

 

[DaytonaBill]

You got the "Hood to Cowl" seal, right? Like #1 in the top-left diagram on here: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=27

Afirmtittie, I mean, affirmative...

That's who I ordered it from...

A hell of a lot cheaper than this place... http://www.1aauto.com/ford-hood-to-cowl-weatherstrip-seal/i/1awsh00061?f=434897&y=1993 That's a good place for a wallet massage...

 

[The Warden]

HOLY MACKEREL!!! Yeah, that's quite a price difference

I don't know why I missed the seal when perusing previous LMC catalogs, but I didn't think that it was available anywhere new...so, you learn something new every day

 

[DaytonaBill]

Well, I finally got around to installing that seal this evening... In the picture of the old one, you can see that it was shot to ****. It was really brittle and not much of the flange remained.

After I installed the new one, I didn't like the way it fit. There were some spots behind the seal where it pulled away from the cowl and would allow water to pool on top of the air cleaner. So, I decided to use real silicone sealer where the cowl meets the seal. I used clear silicone that was waterproof in 30 minutes. It was also tack free in 30 minutes, which is why I used it. I didn't want to leave the hood open all night.

Anyway, I applied a 1/8th bead of chalk from one end to the other, on the top and spread it using a Popsicle stick.

Tomorrow, I'll redo the vent temp test again and see what happens...

 

[The Warden]

I like the silicone idea looking forward to the results!

 

[Greg5OH]

I hav ehte LMC seal but havent installed it yet, i dont like that it is so short! right now my junk to firewall seal is crap, coupled with no cowl seal everytime it rains hard or i park my truck nose up i get water in the cabin. So even if I do get a good seal on junk to firewall and put that short LMC cowl seal on, eventually the foam junk to firewall seal will get logged iwth water and start dripping through anyway...

PS someone got a good source for foam sealer? i used some door foam from HD on it but clearly wasnt thick enough for the job.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Sorry about that, I've been so busy I barely just have time to fart while I work!

Anyway, I left for work at 6 AM and inside the cab duct work, it was 80 degrees while outside it was 76 degrees.

Within five miles, vent temp dropped to 78! That never happened before!

But after a few more miles, it started climbing and sure enough, it hit 106 degrees 17 miles and 18 minutes later...

When I got to the job, I checked the cowl and it wasn't near as hot as before...

I think the seal works, but the rest of the hood needs to be insulated. The serpentine fan belt used to break and the old insulation got shredded. So the dealer, as per Tech Bulletin, replaced the belt tensioner with the one that were installed on the vans. That took care of the fan belt shredding... but I had to toss the insulation, it was coming apart and getting all over the engine...

Well anyway, at least I don't have to worry about drowned air cleaners sucking in water and hydrolocking the engine...

I guess I'm going to get the hood insulation made for gassers, I can't find the diesel model anywhere...

When I get that taken care of, I should be able to get decent vent temps from the cowl. That will help my A/C when set on fresh air.

I do believe that double insulating the junk definitely helped, about 8 or 9 degrees cooler...

 

[DaytonaBill]

I hav ehte LMC seal but havent installed it yet, i dont like that it is so short! right now my junk to firewall seal is crap, coupled with no cowl seal everytime it rains hard or i park my truck nose up i get water in the cabin. So even if I do get a good seal on junk to firewall and put that short LMC cowl seal on, eventually the foam junk to firewall seal will get logged iwth water and start dripping through anyway...

PS someone got a good source for foam sealer? i used some door foam from HD on it but clearly wasnt thick enough for the job.

Oh, I see what you mean...

Does the Ford stealership still carry that heater box gasket? I wonder if some 3/16ths rubber sheet custom cut for your air box with silicone gasket sealer on both sides would work?

Where would you even find something like that? Maybe carefully getting one from the local pick and pull would work?