Injector wont thread in.

[thx997303]

So, I'm replacing an injector due to the old one cross threading, and the new one starts into the threads easily, then stops. I haven't tried going beyond this, but it definitely isn't all the way in.

This doesn't seem normal, but I don't know. Maybe I have the washer in there crooked? I don't know.

Anybody have some suggestions on what to check? I've cleaned the threads in the engine, so dirt shouldn't be in the way.

 

[Mulochico]

What I was told and worked great was to put some Vaseline petroleum jelly on the injector where the washer seats then put the washer on the injector. It holds the washer in place and lubricates it for a good torque reading. This would take one thing out of the equation.

If the threads are cross threaded on the old injector, the threads in the head might have been messed up. Cleaning the threads up would help, but you would more than likely get shavings in the engine. Not sure of a good fix.

 

[thx997303]

Its actually the fuel line portion that was cross threaded, not the body.

The washer found its way down the hole without the injector, but it seems to be sitting flush. I have only attempted finger tightening it, when it became too much to turn with my fingers without effort half way down the threads, I stopped.
I know I should pull out the washer, but I can't seem to get it.

 

[Mulochico]

Ya, those washers are a ****** to get out. All mine have stayed attached to the injectors when pulling. A loose one in the bottom would require a pick, hook, or something as they aren't magnetic.

 

[thx997303]

I got the washer out using a paint can opener of all things. Worked great. Grabbed a different copper washer because I was afraid I'd scratched it, put a little vaseline on the washer, and stuck it on the injector.

The injector went on without issue this time, though there was still a slight drag. No problem though, it wasn't cross threaded so all is good there.

Torqued it down and I'm good to go for now.

 

[gatorman21218]

Always use new copper washers when changing injectors. They are a one time use only. They are annealed and when you torque down on them they harden up.

 

[icanfixall]

Well you seem to have fixed the issues but.. Are you using antisieze on the injecter threads. If not you really should. Then the injecter will easily thread into the head. Never attempt to reuse a copper washer-gasket. After they have been heated up and cooled down they work harden. There is a method of annealing them but you need to file them smooth or any dips or cuts in the washer will be a sure compression leak. Once that starts you ruin an injecter and bore with crabon buildup. Then it hell getting an injecter out. Some members have found two copper washers and some have found none on the injecters. These days its a crapshoot what some fake mechanic has done to these engines before we get them. Everyone thinks they are doing it right.. When the line nut cross threads on the injecter you ruin the injecter threads and not the nut because the nut is harder material than the injecter.. And thats a good thing. I have cross threaded a few because the hard lines were not correctly bent to fit. I have them all correct now and I hand thread them all the way down.. Or nearly all the way down.. Now more F up threads for me...

 

[thx997303]

I used anti seize. I figure it would need it just like a spark plug. I also used a new copper washer. The injector was new today, came with a copper washer, it's the one I dropped in and wouldn't work. So I fished it out and used another new one. No problem.

 

[icanfixall]

One time I was attempting to install injecters in a head where I knew they fit without issue but. That was before I had installed the valve covers. Seems sometimes the edge of the valve cover touches the injecter as its turning into the head. A light tap on the valve cover edge will fix that interferance issue.

 

[thx997303]

So, I still have a leak. I did a complete new return line kit, and all but the injector on the driver's side next to the firewall are sealed.

I used a plastic eye dropper bottle cap to roll the o-rings on, and the cap is firmly in place.

It is leaking from the top of the injector. I pulled the hard line, and a part of the flare catches my fingernail. Anybody think this line is cracked? The line clamps are still all there.

 

[icanfixall]

That injecter is number 8. Probably time for a new line. Any idi engine line for that cylinder will fit and work fine. Even off a 6.9 engine will fit.

 

[thx997303]

Hmm, sounds like junkyard time for me eh? How can I tell if the line is good though?

Edit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Injector-Li...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c19deac5&vxp=mtr
Any reason not to trust this seller?

 

[icanfixall]

Nope.. They are a fair company to deal with. About 3 years ago I bought a set of new lines with clamps for $99.00 from them with free shipping... When I posted that deal here they suddenly went up in price for a set plus.. They wanted an extra $25.00 to assemble them for you plus shipping. Before you buy from anyone please make sure on the cylinder numbers. The cylinder numbers are cast into the intake manifold port runner near the heads. On the drivers side from the radiater back to the firewall its cylinder 2,4,6,8. And on the passenger side from the radiater to the firewall its 1,3,5,7. I have found its eaier to connect both ends hand tight and then install the line clamp. Those 1/4 inch bolts on the clamps will drive you nuts trying to fit them. What I do is replace them with a longer bolt at 3/4 or 1 inch long. Then I use some electrical tape on the open or box end 7/16 wrench to hold the nut when its placed under the clamps. If this stil wont work for you try a small pair of vice grips with the needle nose ends. Any cheap harbor freight pair with work at least once...

 

[thx997303]

It looks like it's cylinder 8 then. Thanks for the tips.