Injector lines

[7.3shrk]

Hi all,

I just went looking today for my fuel leak - and found what I believe to be the cause. It looks like one of the lines is leaking at the injector - and of course it is the one on the bottom of the passenger side, buried under all the otehrs. Is this a common problem, or is it a sign of something bigger? What is the easiest way to fix it?

Thanks for the help.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

i dont know if it is super common, but i have seen line leaks before

try some teflon tape on the injector line thread

im not sure if there is an o ring in between the injector and the line, idi's are not my speacailty, one of the die hard idi guys will charm in and inform you though im sure

 

[icanfixall]

Its difficult to understand your posting. Are you talking about the hard injector lines or the plastic cap just under the hard lines? If its the hard line leaking and you can't tighten it any more its time to replace that line. No amount of teflon tape will stop the leak. The threaded cap has nothing to do with the sealing part of the line to injector seal. Its a compression fitting seal. Now the return line thats under the hard line can be repaired easily. What you need is a return line repair kit. The most important thing about doing this job is cleanlyness. I use planty of white surgical gloves and change them whenever they show dirt. Do not bend the hard lines. That really ruins them. The line vibration dampners must be in place when your done or the lines will brake from the injection pump pulses. Many have found this out the hard way. Me included. All 4 must be in place. How many miles are on the injectors? If its around 150,000 miles its time for new (not rebuilt) ones.

 

[7.3shrk]

Sorry about the confusion. I am talking about the hard lines at the pump. I haven't tried to tighten them yet. Is it common for them to loosen up, or am I looking at something like a cracked line? I am just trying to figure out what I am going to need to expect before I have my truck down. Also, is it hard to find the lines if they have to be replaced? I do not know the age of the injectors. The truck has 198,000 on it, but the injectors are NOT gray, so I believe they have been replaced.

Also, how do I purge the air once I have opened the other lines?

Thanks.

 

[BROWNIEBOY525]

i would say that if its leaking your going to have to replace it. there are no orings or any thing like that. http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm this place has the injector lines. i drove my truck for about a day with a leaky line till i got a replacement.

 

[Diesel JD]

The usual cause of a leaky line is either its not tight or the line has cracked due to the insulator clamps missing. It is common when the clamps are missing...if they are in palce and tight it still could be a broken line but I would try tightening the hard lines before I replaced. They also often pop up on ebay...but then you are getting unknown quality. MWFI are great folks to work with in my experience...only hope they have the lines in stock and not back ordered...took me awhile to get a new one..fortunately I had a friend with a non running 6.9 who let me steal a line from him in the mean time.

 

[7.3shrk]

Thanks guys,

Helluva time for this to pop up. I am hoping that it just needs tightening, second thing, how do I purge the air out of the lines - or do I need to?

Thanks

 

[BROWNIEBOY525]

just start it up and let it run it will purge it self. your not really letting alot of air in

 

[icanfixall]

If you need a line the cylinders are numbered this way. Drivers side front to back, 2,4,6,8. Passenger side front to back is 1,3,5,7,. If you look at the intake manifold runners near the heads you will see the cylinder numbers cast into it. also the fireing order is there too. Some motors have lots of dirt hidding these numbers.

 

[7.3shrk]

I had a little time to screw around with it today. I went around with a wrench and made sure the injector lines were tight. Nothing really seemed loose. Started up the truck and the drip started again. It drips about every 2 sec, from the #7 fitting at the pump. HOW THE HELL DO I GET A WRENCH ON IT? Is it okay to leave it like this for a little while? I figure I will just replace the line when I can get it off.

 

[Diesel JD]

I don't think it will hurt the motor at all to let it drip...I think you'll probably have to take some other lines off to get at the one on the bottom there, I can't remember which one that is. If money and time are an object, I recall that there was some sort of redneck fix someone did on this site that involved cutting out the bad section of the line and using compression fittings to splice it back together. You could do that...it may have a slightly adverse effect on timing, but probably not enough to hurt anything. Should last awhile from what I have read.

 

[ericboutin]

It won't hurt anything to let it drip for awhile. Not recommended but it won't hurt; I will tell you that it is not something that you will want to put off forever though. That crack will get worse and soon it will be a spray instead of a drip. The easiest way to fix it is crack and remove any lines that are in your way and move and arrange (don't forget where they go) till you can get to the one that needs replacing. Believe me this is the easiest way. You'll just wast a bunch of time if you try to work around lines in your way. It sounds like you were like me and don't have the clamps to secure the lines....I've replaced several lines because I didn't have the clamps. If you go ahead and get anything out of the way first you can replace the line in 15 or 20 mins. Biggest expense is buying the lines....average about $50 at your local international dealer. After replacing just crank as usual...it may sputter for a sec if at all. Good luck!

 

[RLDSL]

HOW THE HELL DO I GET A WRENCH ON IT?

You need to get ahold of a 5/8" flare nut crows foot wrench ( bout $27 off the snap on truck, 6 point will work, 12 point will give you more positioning options, but I'd use the 6 for removal to avoid rounding the nut out. I have a 6 pt ) and a couple of different length 3/8" drive wobble end extensions. A wobble head ratchet is real handy here too .

----------Robert

 

[rkpatt]

There is a special wrench made by a specialty tool company ( OTC ) that some of the injection shops have for tightening those hard to reach lines . It is sort of a socket and at one time cost about $70 .
Edit - see - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN2X7U/104-0365683-8367120