Importance of thermal re-torque of ARP studs?

6 Nebraska IDIs

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Guys I can't begin to describe how much I don't want to tare the entire top end off of my motor to re-torque the head studs. But I know normal ARP procedure dictates to re-torque the things after they have had a thermal set.
I understand its possible for the head gaskets to settle a bit under thermal setting but how important really is it to re-torque the studs?
 

typ4

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I didnt do it. The fine thread makes for much higher clamping force and squishes the gasket more so???
I have 30k on it and so far so good. hit 14 lbs :slytoday on a long loaded pull. No smoke:D:D
 

reklund

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I didn't do it on my ARP Studs in the Supra either. I run almost 30psi through that one without issues...

Ryan
 

david85

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Don't do it. Some engines require retorquing after the first warmup, but I don't advise it unless the engine manufacturer specifically requires it. There are very few that require hot retorque and the IDI is certainly not one of them.

If you torqued them in properly when you put the engine together, than don't worry about it and carry on with your normal break in proceedure.

In fact, it is possible to put too much torque on the gasket and that can lead to a premature failure. Also, the gasket is the only thing sitting between the pistons and the valves/head. Anything you do to bring them closer increases the risk of an interference with the pistons.

I did that on another engine and regretted it in the end (not ARP or a 6.9, but the gasket material was the same).
 

icanfixall

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Nope... Not needed and seems ill advise too. I wasn't told anything about a retorque so with the miles Russ and I have done I wouldn't attempt this... Sounds like old yesteryears technoligy anyway.... Sometimes a company puts "things" in their instructions that only means something in courts. Glad you are up and running. That oil leak sounds just like what my small oil leak was when I did my first rebuild.....
 
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