sassyrel said:
exekiel--no--thats meant for small gas engines--Lisle tool makes some fine spring compressors--in a couple diff arrangements---if you pull the vc---and can put rocker clips on----amd then listen on the sides of the pushrods--while running----you may have what happened to my brother--his 87 had a lifter fork break--and only after we did some other things--did this noise come to light--told him--pull the ip--and pull intake and pan--as soon as he got it off--he called immed on cell--said you wont believe--the fork broke--and the lifter turned 90 degrees---and ate the lobe off the cam----theres two diff thicknesses of those forks--and guess which ones break----!!!!!!!!!!Ford in their infinite wisdom--------got used ones off a used engine--80,000 plus later--still no problems!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank You for the tip on the tool I'll try to find Me one. I sure hope I don't have the same problem as Your brother's engine. I have the chance to ask John (at Joe's house this weekend) to listen to the tick noise, He agreed that it seems to come from under the engine. I listened to it with an stethoscope and still can't tell if it is from the manifold or the Flywheel.
This is my question, is there a specific way to install this FW's? This is a luk solid FW, it does have one more hole in it than the crankshaft, is it then only one way to install it to keep balanced?
The Haines manual say "Be sure to align the hole in the FW/driveplate with the dowel pin in the crankshaft" is this something I'm missing? when I installed this FW all I did was remove the old one and install this one with the bolts it come with and put the new clutch that comes with it too but I didn't see any difference installing it one way or another. Any ideas on that?
Thank You