Black dawg
Registered User
5200 is just a little high........what is their shop rate, and what all are they doing?????
IDI down...what would you do?
- Thread starter Minimallimits
- Start date
TNBrett
Full Access Member
Shop labor rates are high now. Like $140/hr high. Labor rates at the machine shop aren’t much different. I was looking at $1800 worth of machining on my heads.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I feel the exact same way about all three of mine. That's why I'm sinking money into them to make them how I want them to be.
Minimallimits
Registered User
Thanks for the information, I’ll look into it!
You are getting good input here...
Here's my .02
Machine shops will take yer $$$
Do they have a 7.3 idi CLUE? (Most don't) !
5k gets you a long block loose on the table I bet...
and let's check
@IDIoit
eta
KEEP IT, You check utility prices lately!
Here's my .02
Machine shops will take yer $$$
Do they have a 7.3 idi CLUE? (Most don't) !
5k gets you a long block loose on the table I bet...
and let's check
@IDIoit
eta
KEEP IT, You check utility prices lately!
Minimallimits
Registered User
The shop quoted $5200 to remove both heads. New valves and valve guides installed with all of the needed machining work to go with it. That price also includes new rockers and the labor to reassemble.
If I can be honest and a bit blunt, it is my opinion that most shops don't really have a clue when it comes to working on these old IDI's. I just got the truck back earlier this week and the thing is leaking fuel from almost everywhere. It is pretty disappointing because I've been through the entire system from the lift pump replacing fuel olives and return system lines. I had it leak free before taking it in. After the short drive home the entire valley was fuel soaked. I feel like these shops want your $$$ but provided less than satisfactory work on these older trucks. At over $120 an hour I can't afford for a young tech to learn on my dime. I've had similar experiences and two shops now, the first one was honest enough to decline the work because of lack of knowledge with timing the Injection Pump, which I'm still not sure is correctly timed. This is my first IDI and I'm still learning. Ive been rebuilding dirt bike engines for years and have owned a W123 diesel Mercedes and a hand full of newer ford diesel trucks so I would consider myself to have decent mechanical knowledge. This forum has been more valuable than any shop I've consulted.
Last edited:
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yes it is. We're all interested in the older stuff here. That's only one reason why we have such a great information base here.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Many of us have learned over the last decade that pride in work is a thing of the past. Businesses do not want to invest in their people or their customers. (Won’t even pony up $200 for a timing meter.) To your point most repair shops do not know the IDI platform or diesels in general. I feel most of the techs from the 80’s are now retired or moved into the service writer or parts departments. (Brain drain.) Tech schools will train techs on the latest and greatest, not the best from the 80’s.
Many of us on this site like you worked on motorcycles and cars growing up. Feel we are better off learning and buying the tools we need to do the repairs ourselves than getting the run around or in your case the truck back broken.
We started treating kids in the 90’s like they are invaluable idiots that we have to stand guard over 7x24. Parents took shop classes but god forbid little Johnny does. Jr. Highs pulled shop classes for fear of lawsuits if a kid cuts off his finger, then most High Schools followed suit. (At least here in CA.). Everyone wants their kid to go to college, but not tech school.
So to your point if you want something done right, do it yourself. Because that mechanic is probably is more interested in going to lunch, getting out early, or making a quick buck than not hacking the job. (No pride in work.)
If you want to have some fun, put water based paint marks on all the fluid and other check spots stated in your owners manual under maintenance. Axles, tranny, transfer case, brake fluid, etc check plugs. Put some on one lug nut on each wheel. Now ask the service advisor “why is your oil change on your 2013 Ford F150 is so expensive?” He will say it’s a A service blah, blah, blah, blah. We check all the fluids, check the brakes, rotate the tires, blah, blah, blah. Then when they pull your truck out look, likely little to nothing was checked. (Your paint is not disturbed.) Then get the service advisor out and show him. Give him a bunch of ****. Then tell him to re-rack it and watch the tech do the work this time. That you won’t be bs’d. Sadly our local Valvoline quick lube does a better job than our local Ford dealer.
The beauty of these trucks is they are fairly basic, where built in a time when Ford and IH built them right, parts are pretty cheap, and you can access most anything with basic tools. (Lots of room under the hood.) Thus why so many in this area of Oilburners vs say the PowerStroke area. So stick with it, collectively we will all help you out so you can do it right.
Last edited:
ironworker40
NYC Ironworker
Minimallimits
Registered User
I agree with you entirely about the decline of pride and workmanship these days. I am part owner in a family construction business, and finding qualified help has been an increasing struggle. Not to mention the shortages and long wait times. The world is truly changing before our eyes. Im only in my 30's but even I see changes that make me feel old. Society has definitely invested into an ideology that will not create the future that the present has been built on.
On a lighter note, I do enjoy tinkering on these old trucks just need to find the time. For now Ill let it sit while I save up some cash and explore the options. Ive owed the truck for 3 years and I originally bought it as a backup/adventure rig project. Looks like a replacement engine is fairly priced, if I do replace the engine what are your thoughts on upgrading to the turbo model? Ive considered only replacing the heads if I can get a set of rebuilt or good used heads. Or hell if I'm throwing big bucks at it then maybe a swaping to another engine platform could be fun. The perfect truck for me would be something that has:
Mechanical Turbo diesel, (6bt, 7.3 idi)
4x4 with locker
Short wheelbase (single cab)
Here's a Dodge version of the rig that Id love to have for road tripping and camping. Throw a motorcycle rack on the front and Id be set!
You must be registered for see images attach
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
I never went turbo because of concerns of the engine being 30 years old. Also I only have 4K in the truck and its a tow vehicle and Home Depot part timer not a daily driver. So not looking to get too deep into it. It’s been a great and reliable truck for the last 4 years.
But if you are pulling the engine out and the heads off to rebuild them. It’s a good time to go turbo if you want to go deep $ wise. Heads, ARB stud kit (FYI back ordered and hard to find at the moment.), older style say Banks turbo, and pyro meter would be a nice upgrade. (Enough boost to make a difference but not blow up the bottom end.) The challenge is finding the complete turbo kit used as a new kit if I heard right is like 6k.
So worth it to do the heads and move on. If you want to break the bank then do the turbo as well. I am confident you would like the turbo, but the N/A will get you A to B as well.
Last edited:
honestly for that kind of cash, you can have a remanned complete engine on your doorstep.
i spent $1400 for fresh heads, 3 angle valve job, cores, and shipping from R&D.
for me it would cost another 600 in head studs, 200 in head gaskets, and another 200 in misc gaskets.
i actually have a pretty killer 7.3 TIDI kit with reconditioned rods, fresh heads, studs and all the trimmings for a build that i would let go for 3k.
but promar will send you a stock one for 3500.
i always have a engine on the stand, and this is where i like to do all my work, and simply swap when time comes.
i spent $1400 for fresh heads, 3 angle valve job, cores, and shipping from R&D.
for me it would cost another 600 in head studs, 200 in head gaskets, and another 200 in misc gaskets.
i actually have a pretty killer 7.3 TIDI kit with reconditioned rods, fresh heads, studs and all the trimmings for a build that i would let go for 3k.
but promar will send you a stock one for 3500.
i always have a engine on the stand, and this is where i like to do all my work, and simply swap when time comes.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Man, this would be the way to go!
Black dawg
Registered User
But still, even figuring 2k on parts.....which is on the high side also......leaves 3200 in labor for a 12ish hour job?????
Similar threads
