I want to ditcgh the C6 for a T19...what do I need and who wants to help me with part

[Diesel JD]

Ok guys, after my latest run of trouble with the VRV, stack shifting, continual poor fuel mileage and just wanting something different to play with, I have decided I'd like to swap in a T19. I have a T19 that was working when removed from an IDI truck in Texas. I got it cheap on ebay, but no bellhousing. I know I will need a new clutch, master and slave cylinder, a clutch pedal, a manual floor pan, and I know it would truly be best to switch steering columns and dashes, but i am not about to do that unless absolutely neccessary...might even be a deal breaker. A few questions...will my speedo still read, and my odometer? I guess I will also probably need a crossmember for a manual truck or modify mine. Not to mention I need a bellhousing. OK so who wants to sell or give away some T19 parts...thanks!

 

[Fordsandguns]

You're going to need a flywheel too. A friend of mine bought a 91 dually with the E4OD that was having shifting problems. He put a ZF 5 speed in it without changing the column or dash, so I don't see why you should have to.

 

[Jake S.]

You don't have to switch columns, just if you want to get rid of the lever. Don't know what year you got, but to 86 just switch the auto part of the cluster with a manual block off plate, done. As far as I know they all use the same speedo cable, so yes I think it will work. I swapped the C6 for a ZF and did it in a weekend. It was a looooong weekend.

 

[Diesel JD]

Thanks Jake S, I have an 86...where can I get a block off plate. Anybody have an idea of how long I should expect to have the old truck down if I can work on it a couple days solid more or less? I have heard the hardest part is drilling the hole for the master and slave cylinder. I had forgotten about the flywheel, should I have it balanced to match the one from the C6?

 

[Jake S.]

The plate thing will work from a clusterthat was a manual. Just has two screws holding your auto selector in, take them out and slide the new plate in. To drill the holes in the firewall is easy, there is dimples where you have to drill. I just measured the hole size from the master cylinder and drilled. It was really easy. Just remember that a master from a 87-up is tilted differently than a 80-86. It works fine, just tight to the booster. I grabbed a complete setup from a '91 so that is how I found out. Flywheels are all the same for any 6.9-7.3 except factory turbos with the bigger wrist pins. So bolt up what you want and not worry about it. I would try to give yourself a week to do a swap as there is always something unexpected going to happen after a parts store closes for the day. Don't ask how I know. Happens every time. Good luck with it.

 

[Diesel JD]

So your stuck with the shift lever unless you switch steering columns or can you take it out with the column intact? I thought you meant you could just get rid of the lever. The auto selector doesn't worry me but if I find a manual dash I guess I will grab it and do what you say since its easy and makes it a cleaner install. Thanks...any more tips would be awesome,
JD

 

[h2odrx]

Do you have to go with the T19? How about a Zf5? I could be persuaded to part out my 88 if you'd like to come get it?

 

[Diesel JD]

Dwight,
I appreciate the offer, but I think I will be happy with the T19. I chose it because it is relatively bulletproof, I already have one which I got for next to nothing and which should be in good shape. if I decide I need O/D I will get a DNE2 or GV...if I start taking more out of town trips or commit to keeping the 86 for years and years to come I will budget for one. Nonetheless, I have considered the ZF, and again I appreciate it, but the cost vs. benefits don't make it work for me.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

i have a cluster, a column and a pedal assembly.
as far as crossmember, i think the c6 will work.

 

[Jake S.]

For the column, you could just drive out the roll pin holding the lever on. That are completely different inside for the rod that goes down to switch gears, and the manual has a button that you have to push to get the key out. To switch the column is way easy, as you should remove it to put the pedals in. Don't have to, but way easier.

 

[Diesel JD]

Interesting...explain how it would make the pedal install easier.... so you don't hit your head on the steering wheel and have to cuss at it? What tools do you need? I'm worried I might screw it up!,
JD

 

[eyoung429]

Nah, swapping the columns out (provided you have keys to both) is about a hour and a couple of brews. Best time to put the block plate in the dash cluster is when you have the column unbolted. Reason for the advice on ease of installation of the clutch pedal assembly is with the column out you have a LOT more room to manuver tools around.

Took about 2 hrs to convert the upper stuff from auto to manual. Basic hand tools are all that are needed.

 

[Jake S.]

The column bolts to the pedal bracket, so you have to drop the column to switch brackets anyway. With the pedals removed that is the best time to get your master cylinder holes to drill and bolt it in. Drill the holes from the engine side. Only tools needed are a basic socket and wrench set. Everything is pretty easy once it starts coming apart.

 

[Diesel JD]

Hopefully Nick is going to include a set of keys for the new steering column. The next thing I need is at least a core flywheel. I want to go with a new one, which is cheap if you have a core, but very expensive if you don't. Can anyone help? Also need a transmission tunnel cover for the T19.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

shouldnt need a core for the flywheel. t-19 is a solid one , not a dual mass.
Nick