I tried finding answer in the search with no luck.... No electrical power...

[Jesse Parker]

Background - Bought a 1993 F250 7.3 idi with almost 300k on the clock pretty rough body but drove really well outside of jarring your teeth out of your head. Had been somewhat of a daily drive for me and ran fine. Used it last weekend to do some pulling concrete foundation blocks and forgot how powerful this thing is. One the way back to the house she kind of felt like she was losing power (or surging)??? Anyway got it home and parked it. Went out the next day and she turned over but then started surging and died. Did some research and since I don't have records of when the fuel filter was replaced thats where I started.

Replaced the fuel filter, filled with Diesel Kleen through the holes and put it all back together. Tried starting (expecting to surge until I get the air out) but she never fired. Upon inspection of the filter, checking for leaks, I noticed some "drops" that I hadn't noticed before around the fender well. Since I was the only one home I set the phone up to record what was happening there while I cranked it and noticed there was some fuel spitting from somewhere. Finally found that the supply line to the fuel filter had a slit in it spitting fuel everywhere.

Replaced the line, thinking all should be good, but still expected some surging from air in the fuel system. Tried cranking for about 10 secs and would let off, let it seat for a few mins and then try again. It never fired. After a few rounds of this I let it sit for about 30-45 minutes. Coming back out when I bumped the key there was no sound (dings), no gauge movement, no clicks, nothing. OK may have drained the batteries, ordered a charger and let it charge the batteries back up in the evening and overnight.

This morning go out and charger is showing complete, volts are at 12.6+ on both batteries. Jump in and hit the key, and nothing at all, no headlights, no hazards, nothing.

By the way the key cylinder needs replacing I know because it spins freely without a key but I'm hoping that can be the last thing I replace as I would really like to get it running for now.

I've checked the stater solenoid (relay) on the passenger side and below is what I have found:

• No key
  • Terminal 1 (from battery) - 12.6+V
  • Terminal 2 - 10+V
  • S Terminal - 10+V
• Key in the "On" position
  • Terminal 1 (from battery) - 12.6+V
  • Terminal 2 - 12.6+V
  • S Terminal - 12.6+V
• There is absolutely no spark or "bumping of starter" when I use a screwdriver to jump T1 and T2, regardless of the keys position.
• I also tried running a jumper from the battery POS to the STerminal which seem to make no difference, still wouldn't arc/spark or bump the starter.

I have read some things about there being an aluminum piece that goes from the key cylinder to the ignition switch that can break or get stuck but I can't seem to locate that. I have take apart the steering column housing but no luck finding it. If it is there and someone thinks this is the issue can you point it out to me on the pic I must be blind.

I appreciate any and all help!

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[chillman88]

Terminal 2 shouldn't have any voltage unless you're cranking the starter. You must have a short somewhere along the line. That's very odd.

Same with the S terminal as that's signal from the key switch.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That piece that likes to break is what attaches the key switch to the rod that goes into your ignition switch that's located at the lower part of your steering column. Since you have to remove the key switch to replace that piece, you may as well replace the key switch if it's broken.

 

[Big Bart]

Ditto on chillman’s commeant, that does not make sense the solenoid should see 0v on those posts with they key off not 10v. So perhaps your meter is doing something odd or internally the relay is shorting out. Also if it is sending out 10v perhaps it burnded up the second starter relay on the starter. (Over heated it being stuck on.). Or it kept the starter on and fried the starter and solenoid because the starter was now generating power as the engine turned it faster. Long shot but perhaps the starter being stuck on was the surging of the engine. (It’s happened to a few folks on this site where the starter stuck on.). You said the lock cylinder is broken.

Two ideas-
1) Check your grounds, the 10v could be something like a voltage drop from a bad ground/grounds. Check all battery connections, ground cables, power cables, and their connections. Something is preventing power to parts of your truck. Likely a bad/corroded connection.
2) Replace that starter solenoid on the fender well. (That is one of two, there is a second one on the starter.). It should not bleed power with the key not in the start position. But also check you ST wire to make sure it does not show voltage with the key on but not in start.
3) If all is good check the positive battery cable between the two starter solenoids, start at the first one on the fender well and end at the second one on the starter. Check the positive cable from the battery to the starter.(That supplies power to the starter, the one between just powers the soleniod on the starter.). My belief is Ford could use the same wiring harness between gassers and diesels doing it this odd/redundant way.
4) If still not starting when you jumper the two large posts, pull the starter and have it checked. Likely it just gave out at the same time.

Back to your first issue.

It sounds like a fuel issue as you have a leak, so once it turns over you will know if the fuel leak was the issue. But don’t rule out if you have charging issues, grounding issues, or voltage drop (Bad connections) your IP pump soleniod might have been ossolating as the truck hit a low voltage that was failing to keep it all the way open.

Do the above and let’s us know if your truck 1) Now turns over. 2) Starts and does not surge.

Good luck!