I know some of you guys know A/C

[82F100SWB]

Well, this isn't on my IDI, but, I know that some of you guys know your way around these A/C systems.
The A/C on my IDI works...
My Stroker, well, when the PO racked it up the heater box was broken, then when he swapped it out for an unbroken one, he discharged the system and for whatever reason left the dryer and evaporator core out of the system.
So, I'll obviously need a new accumulator/dryer and evaporator core, and the liquid line is missing also.
The system has been open since last September. Where should I start when it comes to getting this going again? Being a 96 it is a 134A system.
I've done a bit of household a/c, only new installs though, actually repairing the system outside of adding to a low charge is beyond my knowledge.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Go to Pg.3 on this forum, scroll down to the bottom, plenty info on A/C.

 

[Diesel JD]

I'm a newbie to AC but there is a lot of knowledge here. I had a mechanic with a machine to recover R134a recover my refrigrant(obv you can skip this step) he also blew out my lines and the condensor core. The evap core, and accumulator dryer bolt together easily, just make sure you put new well lubed orings appropriate to R134a on all your hoses and blow out the condensor core. I don't know if the compressor needs replacement or flushing. You'll also need an orifice tube, about 3 bucks for a standard or 20 for a variable. I don't know how much refrigerant you'll need but I needed about 3 cans(12 oz each) for my IDI. An experienced member here advised me to pull a vaccum on the system before adding the first can of refrigerant. Turned out to be a very good idea as it was already hard enough to get the system charged up with the appropriate vacuum on it to start with. Good luck with it.

 

[DragRag]

Cuss your bud for leaving the system open to contamination!

 

[RLDSL]

Get a can of refrigerant flush and a siphon gun and blow the flush through all the componants, best if you can remove teh condenser and lay it flat, then after sitting a bit use a rubber tipped blow gun and blow out with dry air until each part runs clean. The system is going to be loaded with dirt from being opened.
Then you will need new orings for your fittings, use Nylog ( best) on the orings or r12 mineral oil , do not use the Pag or ester oil on orings or you will get leaks.
Once you get it cleaned out and all the appropriate parts back in place Add oil to the accumulator before sealing up, you will need to vacuum it out something fierce., You will need a good vacuum pump and best to vac it out overnight with one that'ss been opened like that to boil all the moisture out. but first vac it just long enough to get 27" or better on it and then shut the valves and let it sit for a half hour to check for leaks, if OK, procede to the overnight vac. When done with the system still under vacuum, start adding refrigerant, the first can should get sucked in most of the way by the residual vacuum without even having to fire it up. then continue with a temp gauge in the center dash vent, with it up to about 1500 or so rpms and preferably rig a box fan in front of the condenser while charging. If you give me specifics on the vehicle, I can tell you how much oil and refrigerant it will need

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

RLDSL got several calls from me last summer when we were working on the AC systems of two of our trucks. He is a GREAT guy and a valuable asset to this group. One tip of advice though, replace all of the electrical components (switches and such) because one of the trucks I rebuilt I didn't replace the switches thinking there was no reason to since the system had not been open to the elements. WRONG. I got it all together and it ran about 30 miles and quit working. The pressure safety switch behind the compressor shorts out and cuts the power to the system. Now I have a system full of new R134a and properly measured oil and I'm going to have to pay someone to replace that switch now.

 

[THECACKLER]

X2 .. What RDSL sez...
You gotta do all the O-rings or the one you skip will be the one that leaks. It's not that hard at all to do.
I use Denatured Alcohol and a small funnel to flush the lines with and Dry Nitrogen to blow them out. I also use DN to Pressure Test the system before I start charging.
When you start to charge it, you might need to jumper the low pressure switch on the Accumulator to get the compressor clutch magnet to energize.

 

[RLDSL]

That pressure switch on the compressor might be specific to certain earlier models, the later style don't have them, they just have a blowoff valve in the manifold attached to the compressor. If your otehr switch on the accumulator goes bad, you can replace it without having to open the system, it has a shrader valve under it that closes off the system when the switch is removed I'm wondering if the one on the compressor has the same setup? Have you got a picture of it? THey usually don't make switches to where you have to discharge the system

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

I'll take a pic for ya today. This is in my moms 94 CC though so its a factory 134a truck.

 

[RLDSL]

I'll take a pic for ya today. This is in my moms 94 CC though so its a factory 134a truck.

If it's one of these things that went out, you shouldn't need to empty the system. It should replace just like the switch on the accumulator. You can tell when you pickup a new one if you look at the center of the hole where it threads on, if there is a round piece in the center that looks like the goodie on a tire chuck that depresses the shrader valve, then it can be replaced without loosing refrigerant. I will bet that it is.

 

[sle2115]

I have a flush system that has a pressurized can and with a hose going to a rubber tipped blow gun. You fill the can with flush, then push it into the system. Letting it soak a little is a good idea. We also flush them after the flush with brake clean, then blow it out until it's all evaporated. Then do just as was said, replace all orings, etc. Vacuuming it out overnight is a very good idea as the system will be nice and dry. The last one I did sucked the first two cans in just on vacuum. Started it, hooked the gauges up and finished filling.

The first one I flushed with the flush and brake clean now has about 110,000 miles on it and is still going strong. It had a compressor take a dump and fill the system with all kinds of nasty stuff, metal, etc.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

RLDSL, yep thats it, I bought it and already installed it. Thanks for clearing that up for me! AC works now!

 

[Alex S]

I will be doing a fluch and vacume in the near future. How can you tell if the vacume is sucking in the 134A if it's under pressure in the can?

 

[RLDSL]

I will be doing a fluch and vacume in the near future. How can you tell if the vacume is sucking in the 134A if it's under pressure in the can?

You will hear and feel it transferring . You can tell when it stops

 

[82F100SWB]

I ended up in the north with no computer access for a while here... sorry I kind of let this thread die.
Truck is a 96 F250 ex cab, PSD, so I'd imagine it requires the same amount of oil and refrigerant as an IDI truck would.
I'm going to order up all of my parts and a new guage set at Napa next week, and I can hopefully get a loan of the vacuum pump from my former employer, that sucker will pull 28.5" of vacuum.