Hydraulic clutch question

[Camarogenius]

I need to replace the hydraulic clutch assembly in the F-300. I know this because with the clutch all the way to the floor, like at a stop light or something, it will gradually bleed off and engage the clutch, and you have to put your foot under the pedal, and pull back before you pump it.
Autozone sells the complete system, pre-bled, for $300.00
Is the complete system available anywhere cheaper than that?
Should I just change the master cylinder, and then go through the nightmare of trying to bleed the stupid thing?
I'd rather just change the whole setup, but I don't wanna get up off $300 to do it.

 

[TLBREWER]

I'd spend the $300. I've done a couple now and they are no fun. The last time I did (one last summer), the complete unit, filled and bled, was no longer available from Napa or Ford. So if you found a supplier, I would take it. Some people have good luck with them...some don't. I don't and after three, I don't care to ever do one again.

Tom

 

[Camarogenius]

I'm afraid you're probably right, I was just hoping someone would know of a cheaper way out.

 

[Agnem]

Do you know what part is bad? I'd replace just the bad cylinder. Bleeding is a pain, but your time might be worth a couple hundred bucks.

 

[Camarogenius]

Logical deduction tells me that it's the master cylinder end, but if that part is bad, I can't see the slave being in much better shape.
The last thing I want to deal with is a phone call at two o'clock in the morning from a truck driver 1,000 miles away and his clutch pedal just went to the floor.

 

[LUCKY_LARUE60]

I don't know why people have so much trouble bleeding the clutch system. I did mine just a few months ago and it took me about 10 min to bleed it. All you have to do if putting a new master on is leave the line loose and let it drain down, keep it full. The slave is a little harder, hook the line up,move the fork towards the front, open the bleeder and let the fork come back, close bleeder and repeat untill all air is gone. YOU MUST KEEP THE MASTER FULL AT ALL TIMES.

Jim

 

[subway]

i just let the engine vibration bleed the air bubbles up from the system. had to "field repair" the line and by the time i got home the air worked itself out and was fine from then on.

i dont have any info but 300 for a kit is rediculous IMO. there has to be a better way or conversion.

 

[swampdigger]

I discovered the previous owner had dropped the cardboard cap insert of a DOT 3 bottle into the master cylinder by accident. It made for some weird bleeding problems...

..but once I figured that out, bleeding was easy! I take the slave out, open the bleed screw, and tilt it so the bleed screw is the highest point... gravity bleed it for a bit... push the master in, close the slave's screw, pull the master out, open the slave screw... repeat...

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

never had trouble bleeding, keep the master full, with the slave off hold it a a 45 degree angle, pus rod in and out until no air is heard , then install it.