How to remove a front knuckle? And other process-related questions.

[Scotty4]

So, where I'm at now, I need some random help on various bits I'm working on. In no particular order:

1. How to drain the front diff
2. Does anyone use CLR to clear out a radiator? And while I'm here, where's the thermostat everyone says I need to replace?
3. In my heater box, does my blend door look ok?

I just flushed my radiator recently and recommend you pull the thermostat prior. The tstat is on the passenger side front of the engine just in front of the engine mounted fuel filter. Just follow the upper rad hose, there will be a large pipe. To get to it you will need to remove the alternator, vacuum pump, and loosen the bracket for the filter (manual recommends keeping the bracket in place probably to prevent breaking the fuel lines but good luck getting to the other bolt). Once you have the pipe off carefully scrape the seating surfaces and vacuum out the block.

On the passenger side follow the block heater wire and look on the side of the block there will be a plug just behind it, should be a 9/16 if I recall. pull this to help drain that side. Driver side is in the same area, bit more of a pain to reach. I would then pull the plug on the back/bottom of radiator on passenger side. With both plugs and tstat out I put my garden hose in the radiator top and flushed for a good while until it was clear. Then I ran the truck for 30 minutes and I don't have any more sediment in the rad.

I am sure there are some flush products out there and yeah, maybe everyone recommends DI water but who has that much kicking around?

I used some teflon tape and some yellow rectorseal 5 (any ptfe paste will work) on the block plugs. No leaks 1,000 miles later!

 

[Scotty4]

Make sure if you flush it you put the tstat pipe and alternator/vacuum pump back on! It is a pain but was worth it.

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Here is another video I just found:

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[Scotty4]

And FWIW here is my thread for it. Main reason was the coolant line blew on the block.

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/self-flushing-coolant-line.87147/

 

[franklin2]

Oh No! I see do over coming up, I hate do overs. You are going to have to take your hub back apart, and pull the driver's side axle shaft out to get that front diff apart. On the pass side you can just slide it out of the slip yoke on the axle, but getting it back together like that may be a trick, you may have to pull the pass side axle to get it back together. That pumpkin is heavy, be careful.

 

[nitroguy]

Oh No! I see do over coming up, I hate do overs. You are going to have to take your hub back apart, and pull the driver's side axle shaft out to get that front diff apart. On the pass side you can just slide it out of the slip yoke on the axle, but getting it back together like that may be a trick, you may have to pull the pass side axle to get it back together. That pumpkin is heavy, be careful.

Gah! Oh no!

What if I put those bolts back in, fill it up with fluid to the hole, and back away slowly....? Or am I past the point of no return by taking the bolts out?

 

[franklin2]

You can try it. It may leak, it may not leak.

 

[TahoeTom]

The gear carrier is glued to the axle housing with RTV. As long as you didn't flex it and break the seal you should be ok.

 

[nitroguy]

You can try it. It may leak, it may not leak.

The gear carrier is glued to the axle housing with RTV. As long as you didn't flex it and break the seal you should be ok.

Well, here's hoping! I'll give it a shot this morning. Maybe throw a little RTV around the bolts and pray it holds.
Heck, at this point, it seems like everything else leaks down there, why not a little gear oil too. I like to think of it as my self-oiling no rust system.

 

[chillman88]

I went to Napa to get the KD adapter, and the closest one was 1,000 miles away. Parts guy said he always just beats it with a dead blow back and forth and away they go. So, what could it hurt (other than a knuckle, spindle, bearings, seals, and my arm). Sure enough, it came loose

Yeah Autozone it's NLA and Advance can't get it... I'm going to call Napa, I don't have a deadblow and don't want to destroy my spindle, I have two of these to go through, both plenty rusty lol. Glad you got it done though! Thanks for asking the questions I didn't want to

 

[nitroguy]

Thanks for the tips guys. I left all the bolts out overnight, and while it's not all of it, it turns out being lazy and letting it sit actually helped a bit. I'll see if I can suck any out of the fill hole using my brake bleeder tomorrow, then fill it up with fresh to at least dillute what's in there. It was working fine, and at this point I just want to get it back on the trail.

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Also got a new "seat cover" on. Thanks to my old Mexican Blanket (are they still called that?), a knife and lighter for the seatbelt holes, I got me a new seat for $5! (Sorta ...)

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[chillman88]

Also got a new "seat cover" on. Thanks to my old Mexican Blanket (are they still called that?)

That would be a blanket of central American descent

 

[franklin2]

Yeah Autozone it's NLA and Advance can't get it... I'm going to call Napa, I don't have a deadblow and don't want to destroy my spindle, I have two of these to go through, both plenty rusty lol. Glad you got it done though! Thanks for asking the questions I didn't want to

harbor freight sells a nice big orange deadblow that comes in handy when you need it.

 

[nelstomlinson]

Yeah Autozone it's NLA and Advance can't get it... I'm going to call Napa, I don't have a deadblow and don't want to destroy my spindle, I have two of these to go through, both plenty rusty lol.

Use a hole saw to drill a spindle-sized hole through a chunk of 2x4, slide that over the spindle and bash away on the wood with your sledge. Make several of those holey blocks, because you will probably destroy a couple of them getting off each spindle.

 

[nitroguy]

Got it all back together! Going to head out and do a dump run today to test him out.

But quick question. I've now got tight balls and loose steering.

All my tie rod ends and ball joints are new and tight. I imagine they'll wear in shortly, but until then, my steering feels reeeeally light on center about 20 degrees either way until it engages the steering components. Can I tighten that adjuster screw on the steering box to tighten it up a bit? What's the best way to do that?
A search shows this to be a questionable process in terms of results, but I haven't found something that says WHAT to do, only to not over do it, and don't do it to cover up loose tie rods and ball joints. (Which I have new ones of).

Thanks all!

 

[chillman88]

There are two adjustments and a spec. If I recall correctly that center screw is "snug then back off" either half or quarter turn out, don't remember.

The second adjustment requires removing the gearbox, a spanner wrench, and an inch-lb torque wrench so try the screw first and see how it works out.