how to properly seal oil pan?

[FastestIdIinthe707]

hello, wondering how to seal up my oil pan? i used a gasket the first time on my 7.3 idi and it leaked all over so i pulled the engine out and gonna reseal it again. i heard silicone is what they came with factory but wondering if it matters what kind?

 

[79jasper]

Yup. The gasket will make a leaked for sure. Don't you love impulse buys? Lol
You can get the original ford grey sealant. http://www.dieselorings.com/shop-supplies/13-017-ford-grey-silicone-gasket-sealant.html

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[FastestIdIinthe707]

sweet thanks man. what about the rear crank seal? the last one i used was from napa and im pretty sure i installed it correctly but it leaks so ill have to fix that too.

 

[OLDBULL8]

The main thing sealing the oil pan is when using RTV or something like Permatex gasket maker, it must be clean, free of any oil on the block and pan rails, use plenty of brake kleen to wash them, specialy on both ends. Most any Hi temp RTV will do.

 

[79jasper]

When you bolted the flywheel back on. Did you rtv the bolts?

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[FastestIdIinthe707]

no i did not. but it didnt look like it was leaking from around the bolts.

 

[IDIoit]

you still havnt gotten that oil pan done? you slacker!

when you run the RTV, like ultra black, or ultra gray, run a good 1/4-3/8" bead, allow to set for 20-25 minutes, do not just apply the RTV and then the pan.
allowing the RTV to "set" will ensure you get a proper seal all around.

 

[FastestIdIinthe707]

yea i know lol ive been busy. i tried fixing it once with out pulling the pan but didn't work, still leaked. i also bought a new truck so it got put on the back burner because the truck has just been sitting. might throw in some studs and port and polish the heads while its out depending on if i can round up the studs in time.

 

[IDIoit]

dont bother porting and polishing.
wont give you any gain,
polishing promotes A/F ratio.
which our diesels do not have in the intake runners.
and without a flow bench, you can actually reduce the flow of the heads... just get a bigger turbo

 

[FastestIdIinthe707]

Good to know man! Maybe just a set of studs and throw it back in. Yea bigger turbo would be nice lol

 

[riotwarrior]

you still havnt gotten that oil pan done? you slacker!

when you run the RTV, like ultra black, or ultra gray, run a good 1/4-3/8" bead, allow to set for 20-25 minutes, do not just apply the RTV and then the pan.
allowing the RTV to "set" will ensure you get a proper seal all around.

Thiz I hole heartedly dizsagree with....my experience show the above method will leak.

Apply bead set pan in place and press down gently to lightly zquish rtv. NOW LET SET at least 20 min to couple hours....then tighten boltz down.

This creates the chemical bond on bo surfaces and then when set the bead doesnt blow out when tightened down.

This is MY PERSONAL preferred method...

To each their own.

 

[TahoeTom]

If the crank sealing surface has a groove worn in it you will need a speedi sleeve. The manual shows a 1/8" bead on sides and 1/4" bead on the ends where it mates the front and rear plates, with a second 1/4" bead at the corner transition from curve to flat. Before applying RTV put the pan in place and note the gaps at the ends. The gap varies, so the need for more RTV in those areas. Make four guide dowels from some extra bolts with the heads cut off to allow you to set the pan dead on first try.

 

[icanfixall]

I prefer using Permatex Ultra Copper Plus. Its an oil resistant and high heat RTV. I have used it on every build and never had a leaker. As already posted the surfaces MUST be clean. Several cleanings with brakclean does very well. Make sure the corners where several pieces of gasket corners come in place. Usually those are the places you get leaks if not cleaned out well. Once oil leaks it has a patch and no amount of tightening or adding sealant will stop the leak. Oil will actually wick out between and gasket if it has a pathway to do so. Its really hard to use too much RTV on the pan rails seal too. Any that squishes out is a good thing. I installed mine wet. The type I suggested using will start curing by the time you finish spreading it on the block or the pan. Just make sure it reaches into the cracks both on the front and back corners. The back main seal plate is a good place for a leak where it contacts both the block and the oil pan. Same in the front with the timing cover, block and oil pan.
Now about the rear main seal you replaced and say is still leaking. Did you install a double lip seal.. Was the speedi sleeve seal used. If you did not use thread sealant on those crank bolts I guarantee you have an oil leak past those bolt threads. That flange is drilled thru the crank to the oily side and oil does leak past unsealed threads. Several members have found this out the hard way as you may have found too. But please tell us where you see the oil leaking from. If its draining or dripping down off the starter you probably have a fuel leak on top of the engine. Any fuel or oil leak on top will reach the intake valley pan. then it flows down to the back of the pan. there is a drain hole and the fluids can ONLY run down the passenger side of the engine usually dripping off the starter. Sometimes this looks like a valve cover leak or a main seal leak. Hope this helps you understand what may be going on.
I use either loctite blue on the crank bolts or the same rtv I use on the oil pan. They both work very well.

 

[FastestIdIinthe707]

Yea I'll clean it and use some good high heat rtv when resealing it this time. And as far as the rear crank seal goes it looks like either my head gasket is leaking oil Down onto the back of the engine or my intake manifold gasket is leaking down the driver side of the engine. And I didn't use any lock tight or rtv on the crank bolts so I will this time.

 

[idiabuse]

I think my oil pan is going to leak now