how stupid can you be

[jtate]

well today i was able to finish tearing the motor down all the way, every thing looked good. i could tell that someone had already been in it, by the permatex that was on the head gasket. how stupid can you be im surprised that the head gaskets lasted as long as iv owned the truck. i tell you ive been patching this thing up since i bought it, i couldnt believe that someone could do so much damage to a truck, needless to say something so stupid. i have a question about something, why do you have to replace the head bolts when you do a top end job, cant you just clean them up real good and run a die on them to refresh the threads. ive rebuilt alot of chevy engines and you could reuse the head bolts. whats so different about these engines. i realized today what everybody was talking about having a shop crain to put the heads back on with, man these things are beasts. i know there no small block chevy head. lol.

 

[Freight_Train]

The 6.9L bolts are smaller and I think they have a step that can break(not always) if reused.Heck,since you have it down why not just spend the $200 or so and get a set of Studs or 50-100 bucks and a brand new set of head bolts.

 

[PnrFab]

why do you have to replace the head bolts when you do a top end job, cant you just clean them up real good and run a die on them to refresh the threads.

i believe it is because they are just like ubolts and can only use them once, they stretch out. by reusing them you will not get a true torque.

-josh

 

[dsblack]

Man, your title is a loaded question. I can be real stupid at times
But the reason these are differant is because of the compression differance. the heads are not that heavr just to weigh it down. The compression on this is 22:1 I belive. And a gas engine is 1/2 that or less.
Replace them.
I have reused them, but always wondered if they would last. cheap peace of mind.

 

[jtate]

yes i was going to go ahead and buy a new set of head bolts, i was just asking to see why.

 

[dbensen]

When I did my heads I replaced the bolts and the hardened washers but that was before I knew about the studs. If you ever placed them side by side you would go with the studs, no question. Honestly, I don't think there is that much difference in price. Just a thought
Doug
'86 F-250 4x4
'89 E-250 ATS turbo

 

[Mont91]

I do not believe 6.9 or 7.3 head bolts are required to be replaced. Some head bolts are stretch to torque and thus can only be used once because they will not stretch a second time. They will break or not provide the proper torque.

The head bolts on the ford 3.8 V6 are such bolts. These are torqued down in the usual fashion then backed off one at a time to finger tight then tightened or indexed a certain number of degrees.

A person could always measure the bolts and replace the ones that are out of specs, I would think that a fatigued bolt would be stretched and/or have thin spots

 

[jtate]

every motor ive ever rebuilt, and ive rebuilt quite a few engines. ive always made it a point to clean the bolts, wire wheel them down, and run a die on them to refresh the threads, and cleam them again. i also make it a point when reassembling the head bolts i kote the threads with a little oil, and kote the washers with oil and ive never had a problem with the bolts or the head gaskets leaking. ive found that adding the oil helps with the torque values.

 

[typ4]

You should not run a die on the head bolts, they have rolled threads not cut and could be weakened. I just soak them in carb dip and wire brush them off.

 

[icanfixall]

Russ has hit the nail on the head... So to speak. Don't "clean up" the bolt threads. They really are rolled and not cut or ground threads. Just clean them as posted and wire brush till they are clean. Replacing the 6.9 head bolts with the ARP studs will keep things togehter longer and you can reuse them time after time. Spend the money (about $200.00 from summit) and stop worrying about lifting the heads while running.

 

[jtate]

if you used the studs you would have to remove the complete motor to do a head gasket change wouldnt you ?

 

[jtate]

i was planning on going ahead and buying a new set of bolts i was just asking why should you replace them.

 

[h2odrx]

if you used the studs you would have to remove the complete motor to do a head gasket change wouldnt you ?

No, just loosen them then rubberband them. i'll try to get a picture. but if... i have to do another one i will pull the motor!!!

 

[Diesel JD]

First of all....its probably best to replace the bolts with studs or get a new set of bolts. Second, having said that, I reused my headbolts...cleaned them with a die, chased the threads in the block with the same kind of tap and blew the holes out very well. I was able to get the proper torque values, and so far, my heads have stayed put. Gary is a retired turbine mechanic with machinist skills, he will tell you the correct way to do it...I did not know that the threads were in any way special. Lastly....I am shocked anyone would use any type of gasket sealer on an IDI. The shop manuals tell you for sure that they should go on dry and NOT to use it. Lots of people told me to use some sort of tackifier or shellac but I listened to these guys...so far no leaks. Some of these guys, notably Tim(the Warden) and Rob (69oiler) have done an inframe head gasket job with studs. No need to pull the engine. I don't know if they are around or have a writeup, but it can be done. Good luck man

 

[Exekiel69]

First of all....its probably best to replace the bolts with studs or get a new set of bolts. Second, having said that, I reused my headbolts...cleaned them with a die, chased the threads in the block with the same kind of tap and blew the holes out very well. I was able to get the proper torque values, and so far, my heads have stayed put. Gary is a retired turbine mechanic with machinist skills, he will tell you the correct way to do it...I did not know that the threads were in any way special. Lastly....I am shocked anyone would use any type of gasket sealer on an IDI. The shop manuals tell you for sure that they should go on dry and NOT to use it. Lots of people told me to use some sort of tackifier or shellac but I listened to these guys...so far no leaks. Some of these guys, notably Tim(the Warden) and Rob (69oiler) have done an inframe head gasket job with studs. No need to pull the engine. I don't know if they are around or have a writeup, but it can be done. Good luck man

The wared have a step by step write up on the archives I believe.