How much is a sleeved 7.3 IDI Turbo block worth?

[JosieGallows]

So I'm deciding I'm gonna sell my truck, because its taking too long to build and the cost ($5000) so I'm going to sell the truck as-is (good rust free chaises) and the motor, the question is, how much would a sleeved 7.3 bare block worth? I mean I would keep the truck and all, but no one wants to help with the funds so I'm just gonna sell it and use the money to buy my brothers Mercedes 300D IDI for $1200 no problems.

 

[79jasper]

Being in-complete, not much, imo.
I wouldn't give $1500 for something I can't drive home. (Not even that much really)
Sleeved 7.3's are kinda frowned upon.

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[icanfixall]

A sleeved 7.3 is not frowned on here. Who told you that.. I'm just wondering who thinks a sleeved 7.3 is not a liked block.

 

[riotwarrior]

Has the block been bored to fit a particular piston already or is it just sleeved and not bored yet?

Can you provide pictures of block and serial # to validate it is a turbo block?

 

[79jasper]

No one said it directly, but seemed to be what happens.
Because then the walls are still too thin.
Is that wrong?

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[towcat]

this is a case where I want to know more about the machine shop who did the work. Having worked in a engine machine shop for years, I know there some good work out there, but more often than not, there's more sloppy work than good. without knowing how much money the orig work was quoted at, and the relationship you had with the machinist, a sleeved block is worth scrap metal price. why? i have no basiss line for the quality of work done. And yes, I've seen plenty of sloppy work where the sleeve rattles loose or drops out once the motor heats up.

 

[JosieGallows]

this is a case where I want to know more about the machine shop who did the work. Having worked in a engine machine shop for years, I know there some good work out there, but more often than not, there's more sloppy work than good. without knowing how much money the orig work was quoted at, and the relationship you had with the machinist, a sleeved block is worth scrap metal price. why? i have no basiss line for the quality of work done. And yes, I've seen plenty of sloppy work where the sleeve rattles loose or drops out once the motor heats up.

It was sleeved by Walkers Engine in Memphis,TN. $800.

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Now I'm not 100% certain that I'm gonna sell the truck and motor, I'm just thinking about it because of the cost and time It's taking. Not to mention family doesn't wanna help fund it !

Anyways, does the sleeving look good if I were to run it or sell it?

 

[towcat]

It was sleeved by Walkers Engine in Memphis,TN. $800.

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Now I'm not 100% certain that I'm gonna sell the truck and motor, I'm just thinking about it because of the cost and time It's taking. Not to mention family doesn't wanna help fund it !

Anyways, does the sleeving look good if I were to run it or sell it?

did all 8 get sleeved? for $800 that's too cheap. if it's just the 2nd cylinder from the top on the last page, that is some horrendous deckwork on the top of the block. deck height is critical on these motors.

 

[icanfixall]

Looks like all cylinders were sleeved but its difficult to see in the pics. Looks like honing oil is on the deck covering the sleeve edge. As for installing sleeves. Thats not an easy job. Some shops stick the sleeves in the frig freezer to shrink them. Then they drive them in and use super glue to hold them to the block bore. The glue acts as a heat shield so some heat can't transfer to the parent block to the coolant. Not a good way to install really. The best sleeve is the Dart flanged top sleeve but they are the most difficult to install. The flange must rest on the milled out area on the block deck as should the bottom of the sleeve must reat on the normal bore lip. This pictured sleeve can slip down in the block if they are not bottomed out positively. If I were to use the sleeve you have I would make it a 2 1/2 thousands press fit and freeze it in liquid nitrogen. Then it almost falls in with no press needed but make sure its held in the bore by a plate and strongback and all thread so it can't expand up out of the bore. Any sleeve can grow up out of a bore is either metal is tapered. If the bore is slightly bored on a taper because the shop is in a hurry the sleeve will not fit right. But getting the sleeve bottomed on the lip is very important not matter who is doing the work. Even if the flanged type sleeve is used.

 

[JosieGallows]

did all 8 get sleeved? for $800 that's too cheap. if it's just the 2nd cylinder from the top on the last page, that is some horrendous deckwork on the top of the block. deck height is critical on these motors.

They decked .010 off the block. Sleeved on all 8.

Looks like all cylinders were sleeved but its difficult to see in the pics. Looks like honing oil is on the deck covering the sleeve edge. As for installing sleeves. Thats not an easy job. Some shops stick the sleeves in the frig freezer to shrink them. Then they drive them in and use super glue to hold them to the block bore. The glue acts as a heat shield so some heat can't transfer to the parent block to the coolant. Not a good way to install really. The best sleeve is the Dart flanged top sleeve but they are the most difficult to install. The flange must rest on the milled out area on the block deck as should the bottom of the sleeve must reat on the normal bore lip. This pictured sleeve can slip down in the block if they are not bottomed out positively. If I were to use the sleeve you have I would make it a 2 1/2 thousands press fit and freeze it in liquid nitrogen. Then it almost falls in with no press needed but make sure its held in the bore by a plate and strongback and all thread so it can't expand up out of the bore. Any sleeve can grow up out of a bore is either metal is tapered. If the bore is slightly bored on a taper because the shop is in a hurry the sleeve will not fit right. But getting the sleeve bottomed on the lip is very important not matter who is doing the work. Even if the flanged type sleeve is used.

I took the block to a cheap machine shop because I'm limited on funds working minimum wage part time. I could have taken it to a super-advanced shop, but the cost would be way out there.. The shop took 8 months to sleeve it... Lazy really. Walkers engine, the guy who sleeved my block is Ward Walker. The shop owners name is Sandy Walker. They did not chill the sleeves, I watched them install one of them, they used a press tool. I should've recorded it honestly. I'll record my heads getting milled with the precups in place if I get the chance.

I'm not sure if I should keep my truck or sell it.. What do you think I should do?

 

[masukmetal]

Finish it or regret it later...

why should your family pay for it, if it's your truck?

work hard then work harder and make it happen,

if you start the trend of asking people for things and not earning them yourself, you will never have any degree of success in your life.

 

[typ4]

So if you watched them , did they have loctite or any such stuff on the sleeve? If so that is not good. Also 10 off the deck is a lot unless it was pitted. 5 is the norm.

 

[icanfixall]

They took way too much off the deck no matter what. The centerline of the main bearings to the top of the deck of the block is 11.137 to 11.141. Thats 4 thousands max cut. Yours is now 6 thousands less so the pistons are going to be 6 thou closer to hitting the heads or valves. Now if you cut the heads too your probably going to have an interference fit with pistons hitting valves and the heads. Best thing to do now is mill the total amount taken from the heads and block off the pistons. Might mill the low compression pistons too if you can find them. They already have a 10 thousands lower install height. Sorry for the bad news.

 

[typ4]

I may be sounding like a jerk here and this is aimed at no one, income always dictates any maintenance, I get that. But these engines are not a cheapo rebuild, but, if done right they will last a long long time.

josie, find a used engine, throw it in, finish the rebuild as you can. Keep the truck. Good ones are harder to find every day.

I apoligize for bluntness, My back has been acting up and it makes me cranky.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I took the block to a cheap machine shop because I'm limited on funds working minimum wage part time.
I'm not sure if I should keep my truck or sell it.. What do you think I should do?

it's extremely cut and dry.very obvious to me what needs to be done.your in way over your head.not only should you not be rebuilding a truck engine,but you can't afford to be driving a truck yet.even if it didn't need a major repair like an engine overhaul.
get out while you can.sell what you have and find yourself what you can afford to drive.a little 4 cyl car.wait on the truck until your a bit more established in life.you'll just end up struggling and not enjoying the truck right now.latter on when you get a better job think about a more expensive vehicle if ya want.it's obvious running a truck is out of your means,let alone trying to deal with a big repair bill.your making life way harder on yourself than it needs to be.
the fact your even asking if you should sell on a site where we are all hard core idi truck enthusiasts,shows you already know the answer.move on brother.there will be plenty of time in life latter on for things that are a bit too much struggle right now.live well inside your means and you'll live comfortable.try and live outside it,and you'll end up always longing for more and never be content.