How did everyone route their oil pressure feed?

BrianX128

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I already used the block port for a bypass line from the factory turbo feed, and I tee'd into the factory sender on top (twice) for a liquid filled mechanical gauge that sits in the engine bay, factory sender, and electric sender for the gauge inside the cab. I had an autometer mechanical gauge given to me by a friend from a truck of his that died, and I went and got a 6 foot copper line and I cannot get enough length to go from the shifter area by the ash tray where I keep my gauges through the grommet by the e-brake that goes straight through below the brake fluid reservoir to get to the tee to plumb the other side?

I can't find copper line longer then 6 feet either. How does anyone get from inside the truck to there with only a 6 foot wire? I know I might be the only one who puts my gauges between the shifter and the ash tray area, but even if you put them up high against the hvac controls how are you doing this out of curiosity? I might just run a braided line to this gauge with an adapter. I'm gonna test it and see if its even better then the electric gauge I'm running now, which isn't terrible but the autometer gauge matches my other gauges better, so....

Also, totally unrelated but my gauges all get illuminated from the factory dimmer switch. Sometimes its nice to have them illuminated during the daytime but I want to keep the dimming option and also not turn the running lights on just because the gauges are on. My question is, where is the relay (or feed wire since ford didn't like relays) that goes from the light switch to all 4 running lights? I'd love to toss a toggle switch in there so I can illuminate the inside stuff but stop all of my exterior lights from coming on if I want to on a cloudy dreary day just to see the gauges better.
 

79jasper

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Just run a keyed 12v off a switch if you want them on without the lights on, the run a diode on the actual illumination wire so it doesn't back feed and try turning the lights on. Lol
Why not just drill a hole and use a grommet?
Be better to have a straight shot anyways.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

BrianX128

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Never thought of that for the wiring. Easy enough and I have a box of diodes from the high idle mod.

I guess my question was more where are people drilling the hole. I don't see a great spot up under the gas pedal or anywhere that would save length. Another reason I've always liked electric gauges more lol. Just wasn't sure if there was an obvious spot people used.
 

Sidewinded_idi

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Not to be rude but does it really need another gauge? If I understand correctly you already have two for the oil pressure, my mechanical gauge sits under the steering wheel and I had tons of extra copper line. Enough to do 4-5 loops on itself All the way up referencing off the turbo inlet
 

BrianX128

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I just don't like the electric one i have. It bounces between ranges as you accelerate. Once you settle on an rpm it's accurate but it's annoying if the pressure is between two ohm ranges. It will bounce from 30-35 for example.

And the other one is a liquid filled one literally in the engine bay I got to compare with the electric one when I didn't know what the hell it was "bouncing" at hot idle for. Did I have 5 or 15? Turns out, 14. Which really messes with the electric one's thought process.
 

Sidewinded_idi

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Ok makes sense. Just ditch the electric one. I went to autozone and hey have an equiis brand copper line they sell in the gauge section that like I said was plenty long to go from under my dash up to the turbo with 4 coils above the turbo
 

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