If the oil was very burned or turning brown i would recommend flushing it. If it was just starting to burn and is still red, I would just drain the pan and change the filter.
Hot Transmission
- Thread starter WarNose
- Start date
I've heard many a folk say never to flush a transmission as it agitates the filings/shavings that have settled themselves in and could potentially end up back in gears and such creating some problems.
Industrial gearbox manufacturers never recommend flushing for fear of ruining the gear mesh. Can't say if vehicle transmission/tcase folks would say the same.
Industrial gearbox manufacturers never recommend flushing for fear of ruining the gear mesh. Can't say if vehicle transmission/tcase folks would say the same.
WarNose
Full Access Member
Been super busy but finally got around to dropping the pan. How bad does this look? That's only 3600 miles since the rebuild
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trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
The fuzzy magnet is a little on the high side for 3600 miles. Change the fluid and filter. Drive it for a while.
WarNose
Full Access Member
Well, I just had the same problem again. This time while towing my trailer in very cool weather, around 60 degrees. It was fine for the first hour and a half towing on flat ground, After I got into the hills the OD slight started blinking again and the transmission was getting hot. Even on downhills and flat ground the temperature would climb. Only pulling over and shutting it off would cool it down. I ended up having to leave the trailer and come back with another truck to get it. The truck ran fine on the way home without a trailer. I just ran the codes and I'm getting 26 and 62. The book lists 26 as Vane Air Flow Sensor, Mass Air Flow Sensor, or Transmission Oil Temperature, So I guess its referring to the temperature. 62 says transaxle problem - 4/3 or 3/2 pressure switch circuit failed closed or converter clutch failure. Sounds like trackspeeder was right about the converter slipping.
SuperDave
Full Access Member
I had the same issue with my '94 f350, everytime I had a trailer it would heat up and eventually it started shuddering on long hills even with no trailer. Turns out when the trans was built they used a cheap reman converter, I got a billet converter and went ahead and did the solenoid pack and neutral safety switch as well as the throttle position sensor. Trans shop I got the converter from recommended that since the trans would be mostly empty to use the synthetic mercon 5 which I did, this was done back in 2012 and hasn't been a bit of problem since.
Slicknik
Full Access Member
Sounds like the TC is failing and not locking up but some other less expensive items to take into consideration are;
the aux trans cooler needs to be inline after the radiator trans cooler (as suggested already)
(Something that’s over looked )
I would like to see how your cooler feed lines look, if you have any sharp bends or too many that could be messing with your flow transfer rate making more work for the trans.
what’s your coolant temp when pulling up these grades ?
does your fan clutch engage at all?
the aux trans cooler needs to be inline after the radiator trans cooler (as suggested already)
(Something that’s over looked )
I would like to see how your cooler feed lines look, if you have any sharp bends or too many that could be messing with your flow transfer rate making more work for the trans.
what’s your coolant temp when pulling up these grades ?
does your fan clutch engage at all?
aggiediesel01
Full Access Member
I agree with the previous suggestions. Unfortunately in my experience, once the converter slips it's only a matter of time until it, at a minimum, has to be replaced. The converter and the pump are the heart of the trans, problems here get multiplied through out the rest of it. Caught early you can avoid problems in the rear of the trans as well. If you still have warranty I'd see if they can do anything for you. Otherwise I'd be looking to get the converter replaced and pump checked as soon as possible. Not sure what converter you chose for the last rebuild but if the truck is a long term vehicle for you, seriously consider one from Precision Industries or PATC or John Wood or BTS or there are several others out there as well that have good/heavy duty converters with thick enough front plates that don't warp or flex under the heat and pressure generated by the torque these loads need to keep moving.
On the cooling side double triple check your fan clutch and I'd recommend using the 6.0PSD 5R110 cooler and lines all the way back to the trans with the incorporated bypass for the 5R110. It is hands down the biggest cooler available. Ford got tired of the bad wrap the E4OD and 4R100 were getting and overengineered a cooling solution for the 6.0 and it's effective. The lines and cooler tubes are larger diameter which slows down the speed of the fluid giving more dwell time in the cooling loop not to mention that the cooler is as big as your a/c condenser. The 6.0 cooler mounts between the condenser and radiator on existing holes for the radiator and the lines are identical in shape and routing to the E4OD lines so it's a bolt in arrangement. I added an external filter just before it goes into the radiator heat exchanger as well for convenience, but the later 6.0 trucks had a trans filter built into the lines at this point and that makes it easy if you find one of those you can just buy the ford filter cartridge.
On the cooling side double triple check your fan clutch and I'd recommend using the 6.0PSD 5R110 cooler and lines all the way back to the trans with the incorporated bypass for the 5R110. It is hands down the biggest cooler available. Ford got tired of the bad wrap the E4OD and 4R100 were getting and overengineered a cooling solution for the 6.0 and it's effective. The lines and cooler tubes are larger diameter which slows down the speed of the fluid giving more dwell time in the cooling loop not to mention that the cooler is as big as your a/c condenser. The 6.0 cooler mounts between the condenser and radiator on existing holes for the radiator and the lines are identical in shape and routing to the E4OD lines so it's a bolt in arrangement. I added an external filter just before it goes into the radiator heat exchanger as well for convenience, but the later 6.0 trucks had a trans filter built into the lines at this point and that makes it easy if you find one of those you can just buy the ford filter cartridge.
david85
Full Access Member
I agree that the slip is not likely to go away, and not to wait any longer before doing something about it. I had a long reply uploaded before but realized this was a recent build with upgrades. Definitely time to call the shop and see if they will stand by their warranty.
I'm rebuilding my E4OD at the moment and will change to 3/8" cooling lines and the 4R100 style bypass. Some say it's not worth going to larger lines because the orifice feeding them is still the same. Maybe, but larger diameter lines will offer a degree of extra cooling on their own.
And always add a return line filter, no matter who built your transmission. Even a brand new cooler could have shavings in it. It's cheap insurance either way.
I'm rebuilding my E4OD at the moment and will change to 3/8" cooling lines and the 4R100 style bypass. Some say it's not worth going to larger lines because the orifice feeding them is still the same. Maybe, but larger diameter lines will offer a degree of extra cooling on their own.
And always add a return line filter, no matter who built your transmission. Even a brand new cooler could have shavings in it. It's cheap insurance either way.
Isaac Ristow
Full Access Member
Another thing to check being that it didn't really cool going down hill is I believe there's some kind of cooler bypass thing that can get stuck in the cold position and it doesn't allow all the fluid to the coolers. Another thing to check is the converter locking up? The throttle position sensor can be at fault even if its miss adjusted and will cause the od to flash and converter to lock up too early or too late. I'd be checking the flash codes and researching the cooler bypass if it has one I can't remember on the E4
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