Hot in cab

[Cincinnati Guy]

I am getting a lot of hot air in the cab, I dont know if the heat is stuck on or if its the motor heat, or exhaust. For the exhaust I have some frost king covering the firewall. It really feels like its coming from the middle hump, but im not sure if its from the vents or from the motor heat. How can I figure out what it is and how to fix it up? Its getting real bad in there...

Another question. My AC blows real cold air but it takes FOREVER to cool the crew cab, is there anyway to make it cool the entire cab faster, or is it something I got to put up with since its a CC?

 

[franklin2]

Take some vise grips or something and pinch one of the heater core hoses closed, and that will eliminate heat from the core being the cause.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Alright, do I need to do it to both of them or just one? I will do this tomorrow when I go out for a drive.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i went with this:
http://www.lobucrod.com/
(i doubled up over the hump to help keep trans heat out even more.)

and plan on doing this as well:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8930

this also.it does apply to cooler cab/ac:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=17484

quieter,cooler and better fuel economy to boot.
after some other mods though.

 

[franklin2]

Alright, do I need to do it to both of them or just one? I will do this tomorrow when I go out for a drive.

One hose will do.

 

[87crewdually]

My last tow with my crew of my 31' camper in the Pa mountain country my wife complained the floor was warm. So I figured probably is so I gave her the infrared temp sensor and sure enough I saw 140 degree temps on the carpet and over 230 under the floorpan sitting still at idle (can't imagine what it was pulling 9% grades at 1100*egts and 14lbs boost). So I knew about Dynamat and researched for something better at a decent price. I found this: http://www.streetsideauto.com/search.asp?keywords=dynapad

They give you just enough to cover passenger side and driver side from the firewall to the seat hump in the floor pan and from the door sill up the side of the trans tunnel. To apply I removed the front seat entirely and rolled back the factory padding and carpet to exspose the bare metal floor pan. I cut the pad to fit and taped all the any seams created from adjoining pieces.

Results: Without a doubt I'd do this again on the next truck. It not only knocked the heat down to 80* on a 70* day, but it muffled the noise alot too. For 89 bucks money well spent and gave me reason to weld in a little patch panel on the driver side where rust was trying to take over. This was one of those afternoon projects that went so smooth and quick I was done before I even considered pictures but wish I did take some. It really came out sweet.



The other thing with your A/C, I gained cooler discharge by installing the vacuum operated by-pass control valve from around 2000 ford Exploder. Got it from the yard with the hoses to the heater core. Simple install and you just need to "T" the vacuum line on top of the HVAC box by the firewall and run a vacuum line to the new valve. I'll try to get pics tomorrow if necessary.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Can I temporarily pinch off a heater hose seems like its the same concept with the by pass control, just to see if it does help?

 

[RLDSL]

Insulate the floor, do the heater bypass, insulate the evaporator box in the engine compartment. If you REALLY want to go nuts, you can install a rear AC system in the back seat out of a conversion van like I did I got tired of having cold air blowing out of the ducts and seeing the young'uns sweating in the back seat so I rigged a rear air. You could hang meat in that cab now.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Has anyone used that stuff from home depot and lowes called Frost King, its for Ac ducts and heating ducts. Someone on another truck board I am a member of did there whole truck with this stuff, and had good results. anyone here used it?

 

[Jake_IN]

Sounds to me like someone slipped a politician into your truck, they can be a pain to get out but once you do the cab will be noticeably cooler. Then just for safe measure i would insulate the floor and AC box like has already been suggested.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

I pinched off the heater hose line and man it feels great in the cab. I will be getting that by pass valve Friday!

 

[Mr.Diesel]

The other thing with your A/C, I gained cooler discharge by installing the vacuum operated by-pass control valve from around 2000 ford Exploder. Got it from the yard with the hoses to the heater core. Simple install and you just need to "T" the vacuum line on top of the HVAC box by the firewall and run a vacuum line to the new valve. I'll try to get pics tomorrow if necessary.

I would love to see this. It's one of the next things I want to do...

 

[Agnem]

Do a search on Ranger Valve. Lots of threads out there, many with pictures.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Didn't see anyone mention the cowl seal. I replaced mine and made a big difference.

 

[junk]

RLDSL

You have pictures or more details of how you did the rear air conversion? Did you also install a heater with it? How do the controls work? How did you run the lines to the rear of the cab? And where do you have the A/C blow out of back there? I've been thinking about this also, but can't figure out where to do the vents.

And when I'm putting my truck back together I plan to do all the above, possibly including rear air.

Thanks,
Jeremy