Hey "Benz Guys": I need a little info/help on an 1987 300SDL in Rockford IL

lotzagoodstuff

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So at the tail end of a 700 mile trip this weekend, I noticed what felt like a small miss. I confirmed that my mileage was starting to fall off and at my last fuel stop I smelled a little diesel odor. I opened the hood and found that I have a leaking injector line, right at the pump. I am guessing there's an "olive" or oring under the nut, and I'm going to start doing some research, but I have zero tools, it's 26 degrees out, I gotta go to work tomorrow, I'm in a hotel, and I've been up for three days :eek:

I drove it for about 60 miles on 5ish cylinders LOL as it seems to run better at 75 mph than 60 mph, although I betting it's leaking more at elevated speeds too. Do you go slower with a rougher engine or faster and pump more fuel on the ground? I went faster :D

As always, any help is appreciated, and of course if there's anybody on here with a warm shop (or knows a reputable shop?) in Rockford I'd be more than happy to pay for a quick fix. I just got here and I haven't figured out anything past where the best chicken wings are thus far....
 

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lotzagoodstuff

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Funny that you are so close to my current home address, and so far from my new one :)

Thanks for the help from afar, nobody back here in the Midwest realizes what a good bunch of folks you Ducks/Beavers/Northwesterns are out there in "God's Country" ;Sweet
 

lotzagoodstuff

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No olives on my 617, not sure on that motor but would suspect its the same and just needs to be tightened.

Thanks for the heads up, I was a little bit afraid to try to tighten it in the turnpike oasis parking lot.....in the dark.....with a borrowed set of pliers.......but now that I know there's no olives, I'll try the right wrench in the hotel parking lot tomorrow :)

Just to make sure I'm understanding this: there has to be some kind of ferrule/sleeve/olive, I am guessing that it's a metal tapered sleeve that the swivel nut pushes into a taper.

Anybody know what the connection is :dunno Just trying to cover all the bases in case the tube or ferrule is cracked and I'm standing there with parts in my hands in a puddle of diesel fuel in a cold parking lot :eek:
 

lotzagoodstuff

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And by the way: how do you upload a video? I got an MOV file but can't seem to figure out how to upload it.
 

Josh Carmack

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The 300SDl has an OM 603 engine, Bosch style P pump. The delivery vales seals are about an one hour job to do all six. Executive Auto in Blue Springs Mo will mail you the copper seals and rubber o-rings for a little less than a 20. You will need to purchase the M0019 Socket

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=SIRM0019&source=froogle&kw=SIRM0019

you MAY or may not get away with simply tightening the delivery valve down.

If you have one leaking, typically more will later.

If you totally disconnect the injector lines on both ends you will not need to remove the upper intake plenum or anything else.

I tried to make a video the last time I did the job on my 87 300d Turbo. I can upload the video, but my camera kept malfunctioning and it is incomplete.
 

Josh Carmack

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On the p pumps, the lines themselves are rarely the culprit, but CAN be. The line ends are a simple flare flitting similar to a brake line. The delivery valves have an "olive" seal to seal the body in the pump casing, and they're at the bottom of the delivery valve. The end/bottom of the delivery valve is the "business" end as far as where the pop off pressure is seen, the copper seal is responsible for the leaking 90% of the time, and it is also why it causes the missing poor running often noticed before the leak is actually found. My 87 was leaking so bad it wouldn't restart if shut down on less than 1/4 tank of fuel, and my fuel mileage increased by 25% after replacing the seals.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Thanks for the insight. It was definitely the #4 cylinder hard line, if I could have figured out how to upload a video you could clearly see that the line was leaking. I got one overnight shipped from just outside Boston and managed to change it in the hotel parking lot at a brisk 18 degrees fahrenheit :eek:

No more leaking, running like a clock again.

Thanks for the help/info, I apologize for not updating this thread with the solution/result.
 
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