Here is what that CHUFF noise in the exhaust means

[Hydro-idi]

It is more likely that you have a collapsed lifter or some other valvetrain issue than it being a worn camshaft lobe. I don't think worn cam lobes are common problems with these engines. I haven't heard of other members having that issue yet.

 

[Banks7.3IDI]

Well then what could it be? because I replaced the frontmost lifter on the passenger side and the second to the front on the drivers side because I could literally push down on them, what else could it be??? How would I figure out? It's good if it's not a camshaft...that wouldn't be a fun thing to do

 

[gatorman21218]

Heres the video of my truck with the bad exhaust valve. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw4bO8aEifQ

A compression test will tell you real quick if its a valve not sealing or something else. My engine had 450 to 500 psi on 7 cylinders and 190 on the number 5.

 

[Banks7.3IDI]

So what exactly was wrong? And did it happen immediately? Mine buffets out of the intake but not the exhaust

 

[gatorman21218]

valve guide was shot. No it was like that for years it seemed like.

 

[bigtex]

That actually explains why my buddy chucks 7.3 sounds like that. Ill tell him when I see him at pt in the morning.

 

[idi_econoline]

OK, fellas..... got my valve covers off, and no blowby through the valve guides/seals -- clean as a whistle.

I DID find that the #7 EXHAUST pushrod is clearly backwards.... the less-experienced guy reassembled the valve train.... me.....

At least it'll be an easy fix, once I get the valve cover completely off. That side's VERY tight against the body on my E.

MY POINT: can a backwards intake pushrod cause the exhaust chuff, too?

At least I can expect the intake thump to go away....

 

[gatorman21218]

wait which pushrod is backwards?

I never did run my motor with the drivers side valve cover off so I dont know what it looks like with a bad valve guide. You may see carbon or not I dont know. What happened with mine was the guide wore out, causing the valve to wobble and not seat correctly. Therefor the chuffing noise was compression squeaking by the closed valve. So a cracked valve or damaged seat can also cause the noise.

A cheap way to test the valve seating is to undo the rocker arm (to make sure the valves are both closed) and the blow compressed air into the glowplug hole. then listen at the intake and exhaust for escaping air. I knew I had a bad valve but when I took the head off I couldnt see anything wrong with it by looking at it. I sprayed wd-40 into the exhaust port and it ran right out the closed valve.

 

[riotwarrior]

Heres the video of my truck with the bad exhaust valve. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw4bO8aEifQ

A compression test will tell you real quick if its a valve not sealing or something else. My engine had 450 to 500 psi on 7 cylinders and 190 on the number 5.

Very familiar with that, my truck though very low mileage 125K has ungodly hours in all likely hood running as a service truck for a logging company on landings n such.

I've decided a HEAD job is in order in the future and I'll make sure I've got some good porting done too whilst at it!

 

[idi_econoline]

wait which pushrod is backwards?

Yeah, I know, Jimbob.... intake pushrod backward, exhaust chuff. I am expecting an exhaust valve issue to still be there, once I turn the pushrod around. Agreed: leakdown test will hopefully point me to the cylinder involved, without having to pull BOTH heads.

And, that's the #7 intake., closest to crappy cellphone camera. Nice and silvery on top.

You must be registered for see images attach

........I've decided a HEAD job is in order in the future ........

Wishing you better luck than I'm having, Al. This whole thing started AFTER a head job. Did I mention my 6 month warranty already passed?

 

[riotwarrior]

Yeah, I know, Jimbob.... intake pushrod backward, exhaust chuff. I am expecting an exhaust valve issue to still be there, once I turn the pushrod around. Agreed: leakdown test will hopefully point me to the cylinder involved, without having to pull BOTH heads.

And, that's the #7 intake., closest to crappy cellphone camera. Nice and silvery on top.

You must be registered for see images attach

Wishing you better luck than I'm having, Al. This whole thing started AFTER a head job. Did I mention my 6 month warranty already passed?

Thanks, I've done enough of these things...engines...to understand what it takes to make it right, and the help here is second to none!

All I need to know is when I get the heads done they DO WHAT I SAY TO DO and only that! Then I'll have everything Just SO!

I cannot machine the heads, guides or do valve job...YET...don't have valve lathe or seat stones..

 

[idi_econoline]

...... the help here is second to none!

Totally agree with ya there, Al. Despite this, er, couple of setbacks, my beast will be back on the road, and hopefully, better than ever. This community has been a HUGE help in keeping my van alive, and me (relatively) sane.... The long learning process for me has been rather expensive, but immensely valuable.

Will be a few days before I'll get the engine maneuvered enough to get the valve cover off, and the pushrod flipped. After a short test run to note any improvement, I'll pick up a rubber-tipped blowgun to locate the offending valve. And I have new lifters waiting, which can go in once the engine's out and the bad head is off. This is all doable. Just labor-intensive.

Again, major kudos to IDIDieselJohn...... I'm struggling to get a valve cover off in-frame, and he did a whole head gasket job in-frame? I'm still in awe.

 

[Agnem]

Is it just me, or is anyone else unable to see the pics and video in the OP?

 

[typ4]

that pushrod in wrong will not cause the problem.
Riot ive got an electric sioux seat grinder set available.

 

[riotwarrior]

Riot ive got an electric sioux seat grinder set available.

OMG yer killing me Russ. Gotta ask..is it for sale or whats scoop....kinda ambiguous statement that left me hanging on yer every word