help im diesel dumb on my banks turbo

[4x4fever]

i just purchased an 88 F350 crewcab with the 7.3 on a banks turbo non wastegate system. im not sure the model number but the PO did put this thing on. it runs great as far as what i know about a diesel.

now what i dont know is. if the fuel isnt turned up should i turn it up and how do u do that?

the only gauges on the dash that work is the fuel gauge and the tachometer, should i try to fix these with OEM parts of just get aftermarket gauges?

the pyrometer doesnt seem to work, all the wirings seem to be going where they need to go, what could be the problem? when the pyrometer does work whats the highest exhaust temps should get?

do i need a gauge to show me my boost? and what other little things should i do to this diesel?

i should probably tune it up myself so i can start the maintenance schedule over myself fresh. ive seen recommendations of a different filter to gain a quart of oil and how long do glowplugs typically last and what kind should i put in it?

the brake pedal feels good on it till u push down real hard then it slowly sponges to the floor. is that a vacuum problem?

any other thing you could tell me would be appreciated, the truck is a 5speed if that helps on anything. i need schooled

 

[tuckerd1]

now what i dont know is. if the fuel isnt turned up should i turn it up and how do u do that?

Not w/o a pyro.

the only gauges on the dash that work is the fuel gauge and the tachometer, should i try to fix these with OEM parts of just get aftermarket gauges?

If you want accurate readings go aftermarket.

the pyrometer doesnt seem to work, all the wirings seem to be going where they need to go, what could be the problem? when the pyrometer does work whats the highest exhaust temps should get?

Get it working if it's not. Most important gauge you will have. Max EGT 1250° Continuous duty <1200°

do i need a gauge to show me my boost? and what other little things should i do to this diesel?

Not absolutely necessary, but it is nice to know the max amount of boost your turbo is capable of. Boost above 12-13# are getting into the danger zone if you don't have head studs installed.

how long do glowplugs typically last and what kind should i put in it?

I had 150,000 on mine before the first one went bad. ZD9 Beru or Motorcraft

the brake pedal feels good on it till u push down real hard then it slowly sponges to the floor. is that a vacuum problem?

Gotta fix this problem myself. Not sure the cause yet.

 

[h2odrx]

Hey welcome to the site!! fill in you sign with truck info?
sorry i've got no info for ya! good luck!!

 

[Mr_Roboto]

the brake pedal feels good on it till u push down real hard then it slowly sponges to the floor. is that a vacuum problem?

Vacuum problem would cause a hard pedal....

Possibly a bad master cylinder with seals bypassing internally.

 

[Jim73]

I'll second Tuckerd1's pyro statement with the notation that he is quoting you pre turbo temperatures. If the pyro is installed after the turbo, as Banks did on my truck, you need to keep it to 900 maximum and 850 is better. I personally like to have some margin for gauge error and distance from the cylinders, so I wouldn't push a pre-turbo pyro to 1250 myself - more like 1150-1200 MAX, and that very briefly...

If you're towing, I'd consider aftermarket water temp and oil press gauges as well - the factory gauges are little better than idiot lights, something I learned on my first tow.

 

[4x4fever]

Vacuum problem would cause a hard pedal....

Possibly a bad master cylinder with seals bypassing internally.

the PO but a brand new master cylinder on it, i hope it doesnt need another one. but the master cylinder on it looks extremely small for such a big truck

 

[4x4fever]

thanks for all the help guys

 

[Black dawg]

does it leak brake fluid, if not, master cyl or rabs valve

 

[4x4fever]

does it leak brake fluid, if not, master cyl or rabs valve

not that i know of. im going to bleed the brakes this weekend, get under there and see whats goin on if that doesnt do it then master cylinder will go on. whats a rabs valve?

 

[4x4fever]

im still dumb

 

[Freight_Train]

For one,Ditch the stock mounting location for the Pyro Probe.PUt it as close to the Cylinder as you can(some drill and tap the manifold but most stick it in the cross over pipe right at the manifold).1200degrees sustained is MAX.You can push it over to like 1300-1400degress for Very short spurts(like under 10 seconds) since aluminum melts at 1250 but first you must allow them to absorb the heat and the squirters under the pistons will postpon the melt down for a few seconds......


As for OEM gauges....only ones worth a crap are the Speedo and Tach.I would get aftermarkets for everything else.Oilpressure gauge doesn't so anything.The sender is an on/off switch,the water temp gauge is a guestimate.....the

 

[4x4fever]

still havent gotten to check out the truck, but the plan is fix the pyrometer and replace all the gagues (temp, oil pressure, volts) and then see how it runs wideopen. its not blowin any black smoke so im assuming the fuel has not been turned up . if all is well i believe ill turn it up a little.