Heater cores

[sle2115]

Ok, so in the time I've had my truck, I put an aftermarket heater core in, about a year (little less) it started leaking, so I put an OEM one in, got about a year out of it, replaced it with another OEM, less than two years later, it's now leaking. Went to take deer to the processor tonight and all the sudden it started dripping and the windows fogged. I have no idea what the warranty is, but I'm sure I'll be paying for another one.

Anyone had better luck than this with theirs? I have no excessive pressure, flush with water and refill annually with Fleet Charge coolant, but this is getting old. It's non-a/c, simple to change, but I'd like to not have to mess with it for a few years! This is the third OEM failure I've had, plus an aftermarket one. None are showing signs of wear causing the leak, all have been inside the core itself!

 

[OnDaRoad]

O'Reilly's sells a copper one ....

Greetings from Dayton, the soon to be submarine testing
capital of the Midwest ....

O'Reilly's sells a copper heater core that I just put
in my 90 - so far no leaks .....

This one is for a 1987 F250 w/ 6.9 and no ac

@ http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_02709_1124110_2017&pt=02709&ppt=C0331

This one is for a 1987 F250 w/ 6.9 w/ ac

@ http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_02709_1124110_2017&pt=02709&ppt=C0331

Personally - I have a 7.3 IDI and ac - I used the copper one



Jim

 

[Ironman03R]

Scott I've never had to replace one in the 9 years I've had mine. I remember reading something about stray electric voltage in the coolant causing heater core failers sometimes. Maybe a bad or missing ground somewhere causing problems?

 

[CDX825]

I recently replaced mine as well for the second time and like yours the first one I replaced only lasted about a year.

I tested my coolant thinking something might be wrong but everything was in check.

 

[towcat]

scott-
vibration isolation from your motor is the issue here. new heater hoses zip tied to the ac drier dampens the engine vibration. if you are a non-AC truck, a 2x2 chunk of closed cell foam, zip tied in between the two hoses helps there too. ever since I started doing that, my heater core losses went to zero.

 

[sle2115]

scott-
vibration isolation from your motor is the issue here. new heater hoses zip tied to the ac drier dampens the engine vibration. if you are a non-AC truck, a 2x2 chunk of closed cell foam, zip tied in between the two hoses helps there too. ever since I started doing that, my heater core losses went to zero.

I wondered about that and since I'm body lifted and add-a-leaf in the front with F350 springs, it gets plenty of road vibration as well. Poly cab bushings too...I guess I don't spare it much in the way of getting jolted around! I'll give it a try, I'm non-ac, so I'll try the block.

 

[sle2115]

Scott I've never had to replace one in the 9 years I've had mine. I remember reading something about stray electric voltage in the coolant causing heater core failers sometimes. Maybe a bad or missing ground somewhere causing problems?

I've got ground straps everywhere! Found ground issues when I worked on gauges and such. (digital gauges don't like poor ground!)

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

My 1985 is factory-A/C and about two or three years ago I put in it's 3rd heater-core counting the original, so not bad for longevity.

Both replacements have been aftermarket; the last one from Advance Auto.

Replacing the heater-core in this truck is child's play, taking longer to gather tools than to do the work.

The A/C-equipped 1989-1993 Dodges not so easy; the A/C must first be evacuated and the evaporator dis-connected and removed to access the core, requiring most of the dash to be torn out as well.

When one of those gives me trouble, I just install a remote heater in a much easier location.

 

[icanfixall]

You may want to check the coolant for spray electricity too. a digital voltmeter works fine for this. A simpson meter is much better but expensive too. Are you running a 7 or 13 lb radiator cap. You may need to install a cathodic protection slug in the radiator too. They are cheap but not too easy to find. I recall JC Whitney sold them years ago. A radiator shop of high quality may have some too. Towcats idea is what I would do if funds are tight. Sounds like you have caused a bumpy ride. That can be fun or not so fun... Just depends on what your warching as you drive over every bump in the road you can find...

 

[sle2115]

I just discovered something in my logs...the last two heater cores were replaced just following deer season. Why is that important you might ask, this is the ONLY time I use the block heater! I hunt about 3 miles down the road and run the block heater so the truck is close to operating temp when I head out, not for my comfort, I'm dressed to sit in 20 degree weather all day, but just so the truck isn't getting started and never heated up 7 days in a row, as the truck sits most other times.

Coincidence? Not sure, but this is number 3 following deer season and block heater usage...I guess she's just gonna get run cold next year or later this season if I decide I need more meat for the freezer!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I believe that block-heater business is purely coincidence.

Only one way to know = plug her up again this year.

 

[sle2115]

I believe that block-heater business is purely coincidence.

Only one way to know = plug her up again this year.

I wondered the same and even mentioned that...of course, a new heater core and extension cord will prove or disprove coincidence! Glad they are easy to change! lol