Bad connections or failing blower motor resistor? That or an intermittent ground is about all that is left.
Heater box flap location on vans?
- Thread starter Cubey
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genscripter
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Looking at that wiring is disconcerting. If you tried jumping the low pressure AC switch and it didn't work, I'd bet you have many gremlins in addition to the blower motor.
I'd argue that if it was the resistor, you'd still get either "high" speed or the other speeds (the resistor failing usually means it works on a different speed setting, just not all ), but a faulty ground would be the likeliest suggestion, as @snicklas suggested. Clean up all your grounds.
I didn't know that '85 econoline had the old glass fuses. that's a flashback. My '88 has the plastic colored fuses.
I added so many new circuits to my van, that I installed two 8-fuse hubs to handle "key-on" and "always-on" circuits. It made diagnosing electrical gremlins A LOT easier.
I'd argue that if it was the resistor, you'd still get either "high" speed or the other speeds (the resistor failing usually means it works on a different speed setting, just not all ), but a faulty ground would be the likeliest suggestion, as @snicklas suggested. Clean up all your grounds.
I didn't know that '85 econoline had the old glass fuses. that's a flashback. My '88 has the plastic colored fuses.
I added so many new circuits to my van, that I installed two 8-fuse hubs to handle "key-on" and "always-on" circuits. It made diagnosing electrical gremlins A LOT easier.
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I haven't tried the low pressure jumping yet because the blower isn't working at the moment again.
It's not working on any speed so no it's probably not the resistor. I don't know precisely where to look for ground connection issues.
It has a separate fuse panel within the RV converter for the RV 12v system, also glass fuses, so the RV system isn't relying on the van's panel.
I don't know off hand where three of the four wires tapping in to the fuses go. I know the red one is keyed +12v for the house battery isolator solenoid, because it wasnt connected when I got it. Another might be going to the ancient brake controller. The other two, no idea.
You are talking about the blower for the dash AC, correct?
Have you unplugged the blower motor and put your volt meter on the plug while going through the different speeds with the dash controls. This could tell you if it is the motor or not. That is where I would start.
Although you may have already done this.....I am a little late to the party.
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Well I know the cause of the blower working on and off, it blows the fuse in a weird way that i guess the fuse vibrates back into working sometimes until it blows again. I accidentally broke the last fuse (ugh. I hate those fuses) so I couldn't examine it, but it's not blowing the fuse in the center, it seems to be perhaps melting it at one end inside. One of the fuse connectors looks overly wide/bent open, and a bit rusty. Maybe its overheating the fuse end from a poor connection and melting the element inside?
Here is a 30A fuse I put in (calls for 35A but had none), where it worked for a minute or two, then blew. It's not blown in the center, same as the one before. It looks distorted on one end and looks like it has a liquid or greasy substance. I checked it for continuity and there is none.
Pics with and without flash as they show different details.
Here is a 30A fuse I put in (calls for 35A but had none), where it worked for a minute or two, then blew. It's not blown in the center, same as the one before. It looks distorted on one end and looks like it has a liquid or greasy substance. I checked it for continuity and there is none.
Pics with and without flash as they show different details.
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I'd say the blower motor itself, and is drawing "29.9 amps". It's not a dead short to where it blows the fuse immediately, and my guess would be if you changed the fuse and didn't turn it on, it wouldn't blow the fuse (indicating the motor operating is the issue, rather than a wire). It's drawing enough current to be near the maximum rated amperage. So the current causes the fuse element to heat up until it melts enough to break contact, which is why it's a delayed reaction.
Different application, but I had a fuse that would blow in my outdoor Christmas lights. I put them up, plugged them in and all was well. But the next day, I noticed some of them were out. I found the little fuse in the plug blown. Replaced the fuse, everything worked. Looked out some time later and they were out again. I had another blown fuse, but this time the door to the fuse was tweaked because it had gotten hot and started to deform. Changed the way I had thing's plugged in (max of 2 sets strung together) replaced the fuse and it didn't blow again.
Different application, but I had a fuse that would blow in my outdoor Christmas lights. I put them up, plugged them in and all was well. But the next day, I noticed some of them were out. I found the little fuse in the plug blown. Replaced the fuse, everything worked. Looked out some time later and they were out again. I had another blown fuse, but this time the door to the fuse was tweaked because it had gotten hot and started to deform. Changed the way I had thing's plugged in (max of 2 sets strung together) replaced the fuse and it didn't blow again.
genscripter
Full Access Member
Your comment reminded me of this meme I posted to Facebook, and I got a few family members that said I shouldn't post this stuff cuz someone might believe it.
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If someone believes this and get electrocuted, then I call that natural selection.
That’s funny. Reminds me of all the winter vehicle “tips” that show up on Facebook. You know, the ones like put sand paper under your windshield wipers to help remove snow and ice. Or put all the screws in your tires for traction....
I was trying to give an idea of what was happening with the 29.9 amps comment. I’m glad you got a chuckle, but understood what I was getting at. A lot of people are scared of electricity, and I understand it. But, if you know what you are doing, and give it the respect it deserves, it won’t kill you, most of the time. I think the funniest story I have, I was helping someone who had just moved into an older house. The dishwasher needed replaced, so they headed to the panel to find flip the breaker. They couldn’t find it, so they called me. I went to look at it (because I knew I was going to be doing the work anyway because a cinder block would have better luck doing home improvements), and figured they were misinterpreting the labeling. I looked at it, and the labeling either made no sense, or was not existent. Some had been crossed out a couple times and relabeled.... So went to the dishwasher, and they asked how I was going to figure out which breaker or was (let me preface this next part, I’ve been working around electricity for a long time, have training on dealing with electricity, and have the respect it will kill you if you are not careful, so doing something with this care and respect is somewhat safe, but I would never tell someone, oh just go do this). I told them I had a trick and we would know in a second. I had the wires exposed, and grabbed my needle nose pliers with the nice, thick insulated grips, reached up with a gloved hand, and touched both wires. Pop..... ok, it’s that breaker. They jumped and was quick shocked I did that. I gave them fair warning to never do something like that themselves, because it could turn out badly if they did it wrong......
Sorry for the derailment....
I was trying to give an idea of what was happening with the 29.9 amps comment. I’m glad you got a chuckle, but understood what I was getting at. A lot of people are scared of electricity, and I understand it. But, if you know what you are doing, and give it the respect it deserves, it won’t kill you, most of the time. I think the funniest story I have, I was helping someone who had just moved into an older house. The dishwasher needed replaced, so they headed to the panel to find flip the breaker. They couldn’t find it, so they called me. I went to look at it (because I knew I was going to be doing the work anyway because a cinder block would have better luck doing home improvements), and figured they were misinterpreting the labeling. I looked at it, and the labeling either made no sense, or was not existent. Some had been crossed out a couple times and relabeled.... So went to the dishwasher, and they asked how I was going to figure out which breaker or was (let me preface this next part, I’ve been working around electricity for a long time, have training on dealing with electricity, and have the respect it will kill you if you are not careful, so doing something with this care and respect is somewhat safe, but I would never tell someone, oh just go do this). I told them I had a trick and we would know in a second. I had the wires exposed, and grabbed my needle nose pliers with the nice, thick insulated grips, reached up with a gloved hand, and touched both wires. Pop..... ok, it’s that breaker. They jumped and was quick shocked I did that. I gave them fair warning to never do something like that themselves, because it could turn out badly if they did it wrong......
Sorry for the derailment....
Oh, and he previous fuse I broke trying to remove (but was similarly blown) was 35A as it calls for.
I guess the r134 will go back. They shipped it inside of a sealed bag as a means of proving it hasn't been used, in case of returns.
I'm going to start slowly heading north next week. I might just try an auto reset circuit breaker that plugs into the fuse socket. At least then I'm not replacing the fuse twice a week. That, or buy a good heavy duty 12v "truck" fan.
I guess the r134 will go back. They shipped it inside of a sealed bag as a means of proving it hasn't been used, in case of returns.
I'm going to start slowly heading north next week. I might just try an auto reset circuit breaker that plugs into the fuse socket. At least then I'm not replacing the fuse twice a week. That, or buy a good heavy duty 12v "truck" fan.
I picked up a used, single gauge AC refill hose for $1 yesterday. Zero pressure on the low side. So eh, I bought an $8 12v truck fan at Atwoods.
I could have bought 24oz of refrigerant for that here ($4/12 oz can) but the fan is a guarantee at least, since the blower fuse keeps blowing for whatever reason too. It's not AC but a fan blowing in your face is a lot better than nothing. I will soon be far enough north that it's all I will need anyway.
I could have bought 24oz of refrigerant for that here ($4/12 oz can) but the fan is a guarantee at least, since the blower fuse keeps blowing for whatever reason too. It's not AC but a fan blowing in your face is a lot better than nothing. I will soon be far enough north that it's all I will need anyway.
