Head Torque Sequence, number/line

[Diesile]

Have a '94 7.3 that had the heads off a while ago and now I want to re-torque
the bolts before it goes in my '86 just to be sure. My IH 6.9 manual shows a
line sequence vs. number sequence for the final two steps to full torque.

Is the line sequence the one to use?

Anyone have a suggestion to make sure the hydraulic lifters are centered in their travel while the valve covers are off?

 

[icanfixall]

You use the center and move outwards sequence, then use the line sequence for the last two torques but use the same torque number for the last to times. As for the lifters, have the motor at #1 top dead center. Then rotate the crank half the distance in the direction of normal rotation. The timing mark will look like its at the 11 o;clock position. That will keep the valves away from the pistons per the International shop repair manual. Some members don't do this and never have a problem. I to have done it without this movement to the crank but why be the first experiancing a problem which will require head removal and probably pulling the motor to do so.

 

[Diesile]

Icanfixall, Thanks!! Just the timely info I needed. When the original 6.9 is out and this 7.3 is in the plan is; rebuild the 6.9 w/ studs, moose pump and a couple
other upgrades for a strong and still reliable engine.

 

[hesutton]

Here's a photo reference for ya:

You must be registered for see images

Heath

 

[Agnem]

Have a '94 7.3 that had the heads off a while ago ...

Retorquing is a questionable activity in my mind. There is no way to properly lubricate the threads and mating surfaces to get a reliable number. It wouldn't surprise me if the process actually results in less clamping force. Also, if your torque wrench hasn't been recalibrated recently, you may as well forget it.

 

[icanfixall]

I would agree with Mel about retorquing an already set and worked head bolt or stud. When we worked on an valve that had 3500 lbs of steam at 1000 degrees on one side of the seat and 27 inches of vacuum on the other side the finish torque on the 2 1/4 inch diameter studs was 6250 lbs. Nothing we had could make that fine of a torque that high so it was 6300 lbs. When we had to take this valve apart it required a torque of just over 10,000 lbs just to break the nuts loose... So you can see what a set bolt are nut will require more torque to see any movement unless its just been torqued and not run at all. Although trying to retorque will give you some confidence things are right. Maybe you will find a loose bolt if the motor has been rebuilt.... But don't try to make the bolts move just because you think they should by using a torque wrench... P.S. The wrench should be recalibrated if its is older and has never been done. About the only torque wrench that dosen't really go out of calibration is the spring bar type but they are so hard to use and maintain the same torque for every bolt on the heads.

 

[Diesile]

Thanks all. I appreciate the "checking in" on this event. All are valid points and
have me considering whether or not I will do this and what to do about the
accuracy issue.

I may check my spring bar against a upper end brand name and then go with that 'calibration' on all bolts, definitely not "till it moves" method........or maybe
nothing. Leave it be and trust in the original work.

 

[Diesile]

Coda

Remembered that when I reinstalled the heads I used this 6.9 manual.
Thanks to all the information made available here from members I was made aware of the torque differences between the 6.9 and 7.3.

I better re-torque......the heads were only done to 6.9 values.

 

[towcat]

will someone who has the article be so kind to scan it in and post it?