Head Gasket?

[CompToyZ]

I just got my hands on a 1993 F250 with 7.3 Turbo IDI and ZF5, and I have a few questions for all you pro's out there lol. First thing is the truck runs amazing, for a few minutes and then the overflow tank starts to fill, but truck isn't overheating, I'm assuming the head gasket is blown between a water jacket and a cylinder. I found out after getting the truck that the gent left the truck out on the highway all night after breaking a ujoint and started with ether. Does this sound likely? The truck only has like 85 thousand miles on it, and the engine was replaced about 40 ago.

With that in mind, will I have to replace the head studs, I've heard arguments both ways and really dont need the additional cost right now(I don plan on turning up the pump). Also can I do the job without pulling the IP? (That scares the hell out of me)

Also after reading posts on here I notice there is a need to replace the downpipe because the original is restrictive. Is it possible to have one fabbed up at a muffler shop?

What is a good location for a pyrometer sensor on the stock turbo system?

And lastly, has anyone lifted these trucks with shackles and zero rate springs? I just want a set of 35's tucked under it.

Sorry for all the questions at once, I just figured it would make it easier then repeatedly budgging everyone lol.

 

[Agnem]

Welcome to the site! 7.3's have less problems with headbolts than do the 6.9's, so studs for a 7.3 are not that necessary, although on either engine they are a plus. You can confirm the head gasket problem by parking and somehow locking each piston at TDC on the compression stroke in turn, and using a glow plug hole adapter, supply compressed air to the cylinder. This will at least tell you which side to check first. A cracked head is not out of the question.

 

[CompToyZ]

Hey the "Moose Pump" guy lol. Thank you for your quick reply. Yeah I had considered a cracked head but I am crossing my fingers (and wallet) that it's just the head gasket lol. I have also heard of a similar problem from a small crack in the lower cylinder wall.

I have the head gasket set and valley pan set at the parts store and will pick them up today. I am hoping that this is all I need. I will know more when she comes apart.

On another note, what sort of power increases are you seing with the Moose Pumps?

 

[dyoung14]

yea im curious on this moose pump too i would like to have a little more info on this thing and how much they cost

 

[Agnem]

Don't want to hijack the thread. Go Here.

 

[88 Ford]

Hey answering your question about the shackle flip is u can't really do it. I mean u could do it to the back with no problems but the front end of F250s are Ford independent suspension. Doing a shackle flip would cause drivability issues. If you want to lift it you need a full suspension kit, a leveling kit, or a body lift. Then you can fit some 35s. I have a 3" body lift right now and it works fine.

 

[fastass350]

For the coolant problem, what about the check ball in the water outlet? I can't recall if those (or lack of) caused pressurization, just thought I'd throw it out there.
I'd be looking into some other things before I assumed a bad head gasket from the start.

Chris

 

[CompToyZ]

I've never heard of a checkball in there, how would I check that? Should I just pinch off the heater lines and let her buck?

As for the shackles, I actually meant extended shackles. I've done them on chev's but never on a ford.

 

[fastass350]

Someone else I'm sure knows better than me, if they were used on the 7.3's, I know they were on the 6.9's. I switched housings once, installed one with no check ball, and it would warm up, but you'd feel the lower radiator hose and it would be cool. It basically allowed water to bypass through the small orifice. If you pull the water outlet off, like you were going to change the thermostat, you'd see where the check ball is or should be. It's visible at the mounting surface of the housing.
Hope that helps.

 

[1dieselman]

To answer a couple of other questions, you need to pull the IP to pull the heads but its not nearly as bad as it seems. The turbo exhaust outlet is just as restrictive as the downpipe, the best and easiest way around that is to get the ATS outlet and downpipe. If you want to lift the front a couple of inches go with add-a-leafs, extended shackles will throw your alignment all out of whack. The egt probe is best in or no more than 2" below your exhaust manifold, you can install it right at the turbo outlet but beware the reading will be slightly lower than true temperature. I would also do the pressure check through the GP ports. Maybe put a radiator pressure tester on with the engine cool, start it up and if the gauge climbs fast you know for sure compression is getting in your coolant.

 

[oldmisterbill]

I don't hear inough information to make a diagnosis.Does the tank overflow-It will rise some when warm because the coolant expands and needs a place to go,How much does it raise.If you fill the radiator and take off the cap when cold then watch for bubbles,sometimes a haedgasket will be odvious.Do you need to add collant often.The level in the resivoir should rise and `fall as it warms and cools.If infact you do have a head,gasket problem,from my own experence don't try to start it.The reason for thet is as the coolant enters the cylinder while sitting it can put enough coolant into the cylinder and stop the engine from being able to turn by the starter.In my case the engine locked while I was at work(I had not had low water problems till that day.When the starter engaged it couldn't turn the engine so the adaptor plate between the engine and transmission broke leaving the starter hanging by its cables& we had to remove the engine to replace the adaptor.We also had to loacte an adaptor,it also bent a connecting rod.. Mt thoughts - be careful and thorough brfore you invite more expensive repairs.