Has anyone used a ball joint press to...

[DaytonaBill]

press out the bushings in the spring eyes?

I've read about dropping the axle and torching out the centers of the spring bushings and then taking a chisel or flat screwdriver and bending out the sheet metal cage away from the walls of the spring eye.

I also read about taking the spring and pressing out the bushings and pressing the new ones on.

But has anyone used a ball joint press to R&R the bushings? I haven't tried it to find out because I don't want to get stuck in a situation where I can't take it anywhere to get it fixed. If I had secondary transportation, I guess I would just remove the springs and take them to a shop and have them do the pressing.

I hope that the ball joint press would fit the bill, it would save me about 400 bucks...

I figure that if the ball joint press will work, it will take about two hours each side...

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[79jasper]

Should work.
I used a saws all and cut a wall, then drove a screw driver in to push the wall away.
Mind you, these were trac bar bushings.


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[BDOGONE]

I don't have a picture, but if you drill a lot of small (1/4") holes around the edge of the rubber bushing you will soon notice the drill will want to wind around the bushing all by itself. Just let it walk around and around until the rubber is out. It's really pretty easy. Then you just have the metal can to deal with.


Sent by wing, prayer & ATT

 

[Sycostang67]

I have done the front spring and axle pivot bushings on two trucks using a ball joint press. you may still have to beat a shell or two out of the spring, but it's pretty easy with the rubber out of the way. Lot of penetrating lube will help as well.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Thanks everybody, now I've got no worries about this job...

In fact, I've already ordered the bushings and I will do it this coming weekend. I've got red Polyurethane Energy Suspension bushings coming...

They were cheaper than oem??? I wonder how come?

Oh well, a little silicone lubricant should keep them quiet... Should last the remaining life of the truck, eh?

Next week, I'm replacing the ball joints with the XRF ones ... A 500,000 mile warranty beats Moog every time...

 

[crashnzuk]

If there is a gap where the spring eye is wrapped back to itself, you can use a wedge of some sort to open the eye slightly which makes the bushings a breeze to get in and out. I did this on the last set of springs I changed bushings on and it took a whole of 10 mins to do 4 bushings (both ends of 2 springs). There was about 1/16" gap on my springs and I was able to pound a wonderbar in to open it up slightly. You could use a screwdriver, thin prybar, or whatever to accomplish this.
Travis..

 

[laserjock]

I did it. If you look in my build thread I have some pics. It worked okay except on the really ugly ones. Then I took the sawzall and slipped the blade through the gap in the spring eye to split the metal shell to get them started out with an air chisel. I think I eneded up burning one of the bushings out of 4 out.

I'll edit and add a link to the build thread.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...oject-Big-Red/page4&highlight=project+big+red

It's a lot easier with the springs out. I used a 2 jaw puller to push the bolts out with lots of heating with a MAP torch. I should also mention, this stuff was all VERY rusty. I don't know where you are but the cleaner stuff is the easier it will be I'm sure.

 

[junk]

I've done the drill bit, burning, and press method. They are always a pain. I wish I'd of thought about driving a wedge into the gab to open them up a bit.

 

[DaytonaBill]

Wow! What an excellent idea! I would never have thought of opening the gap to make the hole bigger... Thanks, Crashnzuk!!!

Just out of curiosity, should the nuts on the u-bolts be replaced? I was stupid enough not to get new nuts when I rebuilt my last gas engine and one of the rods let loose... The engine self ventilated and I watched the magic smoke leak out...

I had about 15,000 bucks invested in that engine...

 

[junk]

I would do whole new U-bolts if it was me. Or just reuse. Normally for me U-bolts come off with the torch so reusing them isn't' an option.

 

[TahoeTom]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the Energy Suspension poly bushings required the outer metal ring of the old bushing remain in place.

 

[laserjock]

Nope. Just put a set in. Directions said specifically to remove the outer ring.

 

[TWeatherford]

Nope. Just put a set in. Directions said specifically to remove the outer ring.

Same here.

I left the springs attached to the axle. Drilled out the rubber, and beat the steel shell out with a hammer and chisel.

 

[crashnzuk]

You could also do a variation of what Laserjock did. If you can get a sawzall in the gap to cut the outer shell, it would relieve the press fit and make it much easier to beat out. That won't help with the re-install of new ones like wedging the gap will, but could be still be helpful. Everyone selling u-bolts will say to replace them. I rarely do unless there is some sort of damage or wear, or if I'm doing work for someone else (CYA ) . If they are rusty, get new u-bolts and nuts. If they look good, and will take a torque (always use a torque wrench!!), I will re-use them without a second thought. I have never had a problem with any u-bolts in my 25+ plus years of personal and professional work. Just use good judgement.
Travis..

 

[DaytonaBill]

I may have to replace the bolts. What grade should I use? I'm thinking grade 8, but would those be too hard and subject to break?

My poly bushings came in!!! Yay!!!

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