Hard to start, wont stay running

[tbiagent69]

Hello!

I have an 87 F250 6.9 with a banks turbo and gv od on it.

The truck had issues with running and my brother replaced the fuel return system. Since then we have not been able to get it running and stay running.

Yesterday I replaced the fuel filter after it had sat for an extended period of time. The fuel level in the filter was an inch low and I don't know if it was ever full truthfully as this is the first time I've worked on it.

It has an electrical fuel pump so I turned it on and beld out all the air.

I then cranked it for a bit and got it started but after about a minute it died.

So I figured there was air in the injector lines, and cracked the three lines I could reach. I cranked it until fuel came out and tightened them back up.

Again, the truck started and ran for about a minute, died, and I couldn't get it back running again.

I'm wondering if the IP is shutting off the fuel flow? I have some experience with diesels and I've always been able to get the fuel system to bleed all the air out of I was able to get enough cylinders to catch.

Also, when I did have it running at first there was a loud knock, almost as bad as a rod knock but coming from the top of the engine. After it was running those couple times it smoothed out and became almost unnoticeable.

When I replaced the fuel filter I filled it up with seafoam. Since I didn't get it running long enough to blow it all through I'm certain the entire IP and probably the injectors are sitting and full of the stuff.

Any thoughts on what to check on?

I bought a set of 10 injectors and will be getting them pop tested and install the ones which are closest together. I'm also saving up for a moose but I'd prefer to get it running and driving in the mean time.

Thanks!

 

[C_Luft]

I had the same problem replacing my injectors and injector lines, one thing I did was remove the return lines to the injection pump and to the fuel filter individually while cranking the engine until only fuel was coming out, to further remove air from the fuel system, and after doing that and won't keep running, try a little wd-40 in the intake, and if still not running, cut power to the glow plug system and wait a minute or two for them to cool down and then try ether for a few cranks , because if you spray ether into the intake while the glow plugs are hot you could damage the engine.

 

[tbiagent69]

So you think it's just air in the lines?

I like the idea of disconnecting the return line, but since I have an electric pump I'll probably need to plug the filter housing and let the return line hang.

How much fuel comes out of those? How much air do you think could be in that return system? I was really worried it'd need hard parts, and I'm cautiously optimistic that all I'll need to do is bleed it to get it running reliably.

Still, I'll probably end up getting the moose and will be bumming information for the install of it when the time comes.

 

[C_Luft]

Yea I'm pretty sure it's air in your fuel lines, because from what I've seen on oil burners and other sites when you have a bad injection pump it will start normally when cold and once the injection pump/engine is warmed like after leaving home to go to the grocery store, it won't start, pour some water on the injection pump and it should start. That's when your injection is in need of a rebuild

Now since it runs and then dies I would start checking fuel lines for leaks before the injection pump and then the fuel return lines.

When I was doing my injectors tee's and injectors I got a little impatient after my batteries died from lots a of cranking and air out the injection lines. After the batteries were charged again I cranked her again while using the glow plugs to warm up the cylinders, I cut power to the glow plugs and used a little ether to keep her running until the injectors purged the air out. Just don't use ether when the glow plugs are on and don't use too much.

 

[tbiagent69]

Cool. I'll give it a shot and let you know

 

[tbiagent69]

So I ended up fixing the no-running issue. Cost me about $42.

I went to bleed the air out of the lines (again) by turning on the electric fuel pump and pushing the schrader valve. For "some" reason, it kept getting tons of air in the system.

After a bit of revelation, I went to the gas station and bought 10 gallons of diesel and put it in the tank..

Boom.... after cracking the #2, #3, and #5 injection lines and cranking them until only fuel came out I was able to start it and get the rest of the cylinders to catch.

I did not drive the truck more than around the yard, but when I rev the motor it seems like it has a missing cylinder (or two) and is really sooty.

Could this be stuck open injectors? I have about a 100 mile trip back home with it, will it be a problem to drive it back home like that?

Where it's at I basically have a crescent wrench and a 1/3" drive set I bought at joto-zone. If I can get it home I'll have everything I need to work on it.

 

[icanfixall]

Really can't say you will be able to drive it 100 miles like it is now. Might try finding the bad cylinders. Then try to fix them. If you had to you could remove the bad injector and install most any idi injector to get it home too. Reusing the copper gasket is doable but not recommended. Just tighten the injectors a little more than 35 lbs on old copper gaskets.

 

[tbiagent69]

What's the worst that can happen? It initially had a really bad injector knock, which I'm not even sure what it's caused by, which went away. I'm a little apprehensive to change an injector 'out in the field' because of the long distance to get their and how much it costs to get there and back.

Also.. I'm a little apprehensive taking off the banks intake box and so forth for the first time way out there.

Of course, I don't want to cause any long term damage which is why I asked that first part.

 

[icanfixall]

Then the simple answer is to drive it. I can't make you feel any better by posting any more to this post. Sorry...

 

[tbiagent69]

So...

I went ahead and brought the truck home. It felt as if it was running on 6 cylinders the whole way and smoked like a son of a gun. Today I brought my 10 Rock Auto injectors to a shop in town and had them pop tested. One failed to open, one failed to close which left me with 8 that he said all popped at 1800 PSI (I hope....)

So I put everything back together, only when I was putting the hard lines back on I somehow cross threaded the #1 nut and it split open. It was weird, I don't know if I have crazy kung fu grip or what but it was going on just like the others and all of a sudden the sides split..

I went BACK to the diesel shop who sold me a replacement nut and flare fitting. I (for the first time ever) brazed the thing together and realized that when I jacked up the first line it also messed up the mating surface so it no longer seals.

Is there a kind soul in Oilburners land who is willing to sell me an old #1 cylinder line?

 

[tbiagent69]

Oh yeah, and for the time I had it running, it was idling the best I've ever seen it. Took out the factory original (grey) injectors at 125k miles.

 

[79jasper]

Not doubting your brazing skills, but I doubt it'd last a day. Lol
Btw, injector lines are a special length for a reason. It will throw the timing off for that cylinder.
Do you still have the timing adapter on that injector? If no, you need one, or the #1 line from a van.


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[tbiagent69]

My brazing skills are such that I recognize the need to get another line, quick

So if anyone out there has one, it's really difficult for me to get to the boneyard these days..

There was no timing adaptor on the line. What do you mean by this?

 

[79jasper]

Well it will affect the timing of that cylinder. It'll be way advanced compared to the others.
I believe Gary icanfixall has some. And I think Mel (Agnem here) with conestoga diesel may sell them also.


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