Our 5ver has a Gooseneck hitch on it which I much prefer over a 5th hitch. However I'd like to either have an extension fabbed up, or purchase one which will get me a bit more clearance between the pickup bumper and the front edge of the trailer. It's mainly for ease of crawling in between the pickup and trailer when hitched up. Does anyone have pics of a solid one they've fabbed up or a link to someone who sells a solid 9-12" extension?
Gooseneck extension?
- Thread starter wmoguy
- Start date
Yeah, yeah, everybody's heard bad things, but nobody has actually SEEN them happen.
I've been running gooseneck adapters and extensions for a number of years now , not a bit of problems. Last year I had to make up a new one to clear my bed tank and it's a doosy. I've already got over 14k miles on this one over some insane terrain pulling some of the toughest passes in the country. My 5er weighs in over 10k and I have a mobility scooter hanging off the back ( sometimes, with that extension I can leave it in the truck hitch and there's enough room for it to swing under the 5er, keeps it from getting beat to death on rough stretches of road hanging off the back of the trailer )
I reinforced my factory pinbox a little just because I didn't like their welds. It looked like they had done it with a 110v box, which is odd for a high end trailer, but the beads are small and just not up to my standards ( although it had made it 25 years just fine before I got ahold of it, but I like overkill), so I dropped the skirt on the pinbox an extra level to get 4 bolts holding the coupler like a modern setup instead of the factory 2 and added 3/8 plate wings extending to the frame rails to tie it in
My coupler is made of most all 3/8 " with the exception of teh top and bottom tie in plates that are 1/4" The couple used is the best one you can get , it's an Atwood. Seriously consider using one if going to build. You get the benefits of a gooseneck, but you can back into them like a 5th wheel with the same range of error, so coupleing is WORLDS easier than a regular goosenck ( especially when you have a CC with a big bed tank where you can't see anything back there) I got one with an adjustable crank so I could set it at a low setting , but if I need to completely jacknife it backwards ( which with my rigs turning radius takes a few wiggles back and forth, so it's not going to happen by accedent ) I can climb back there and crank it up so it will go past 90 deg . Even though I put that on, with a three month trip on the road, I didn't use it once... But it was nice to know I had it, because with a shorter coupler I tagged the front of my trailer once trying to get into a spot.
That setup is about 4 times stronger that the specs for the coupler mounting for it's maximum load and about 6 or more times stronger than the original factory pin box. The trailer will get torn in half before that hitch is coming apart.
I've been running gooseneck adapters and extensions for a number of years now , not a bit of problems. Last year I had to make up a new one to clear my bed tank and it's a doosy. I've already got over 14k miles on this one over some insane terrain pulling some of the toughest passes in the country. My 5er weighs in over 10k and I have a mobility scooter hanging off the back ( sometimes, with that extension I can leave it in the truck hitch and there's enough room for it to swing under the 5er, keeps it from getting beat to death on rough stretches of road hanging off the back of the trailer )
I reinforced my factory pinbox a little just because I didn't like their welds. It looked like they had done it with a 110v box, which is odd for a high end trailer, but the beads are small and just not up to my standards ( although it had made it 25 years just fine before I got ahold of it, but I like overkill), so I dropped the skirt on the pinbox an extra level to get 4 bolts holding the coupler like a modern setup instead of the factory 2 and added 3/8 plate wings extending to the frame rails to tie it in
My coupler is made of most all 3/8 " with the exception of teh top and bottom tie in plates that are 1/4" The couple used is the best one you can get , it's an Atwood. Seriously consider using one if going to build. You get the benefits of a gooseneck, but you can back into them like a 5th wheel with the same range of error, so coupleing is WORLDS easier than a regular goosenck ( especially when you have a CC with a big bed tank where you can't see anything back there) I got one with an adjustable crank so I could set it at a low setting , but if I need to completely jacknife it backwards ( which with my rigs turning radius takes a few wiggles back and forth, so it's not going to happen by accedent ) I can climb back there and crank it up so it will go past 90 deg . Even though I put that on, with a three month trip on the road, I didn't use it once... But it was nice to know I had it, because with a shorter coupler I tagged the front of my trailer once trying to get into a spot.
That setup is about 4 times stronger that the specs for the coupler mounting for it's maximum load and about 6 or more times stronger than the original factory pin box. The trailer will get torn in half before that hitch is coming apart.
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MIDNIGHT RIDER
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The golden rule of trailering is to NEVER under any circumstances go between the truck and trailer, nor step across the hitch of a bumper-pull --- NEVER.
Always go around, either around the front of the truck, or around the rear of the trailer.
I have personally knocked three people down by them shortcutting between my truck and trailer --- me moving really slow and no one badly hurt any more than them looking like an
idiot --- ; twice while sitting in line at a stock-yards, and once at the loading chute at the veterinarians.In all three cases, I heard them squall and immediately stopped.
In the neighboring town, there is a court-house square with roads entering from four directions, with pedestrian cross-walks.
Some years ago, a guy with a big load of cattle eased up past the cross-walk and stopped for a second; if you could actually see this place, you would understand why; just as he stopped rolling, this
woman of about 40 short-cutted 
between his truck/trailer and he took off, killing her dead.A year or two later, at the very same place, I just happened to see in my side-glass, from the corner of my eye, this
woman and two little kids do my truck/trailer likewise; thank goodness I saw her and sat still.After that, I threatened to put slack chains between the truck and trailer that would prevent any future such happenings.
If you never let yourself acquire the habit of darting between the truck/trailer, you will never be likely to do so at the wrong moment.
The golden rule of trailering is to NEVER under any circumstances go between the truck and trailer, nor step across the hitch of a bumper-pull --- NEVER.
Always go around, either around the front of the truck, or around the rear of the trailer.
I have personally knocked three people down by them shortcutting between my truck and trailer --- me moving really slow and no one badly hurt any more than them looking like an
In all three cases, I heard them squall and immediately stopped.
In the neighboring town, there is a court-house square with roads entering from four directions, with pedestrian cross-walks.
Some years ago, a guy with a big load of cattle eased up past the cross-walk and stopped for a second; if you could actually see this place, you would understand why; just as he stopped rolling, this
A year or two later, at the very same place, I just happened to see in my side-glass, from the corner of my eye, this
After that, I threatened to put slack chains between the truck and trailer that would prevent any future such happenings.
If you never let yourself acquire the habit of darting between the truck/trailer, you will never be likely to do so at the wrong moment.
I believe what he was referring to is to gain clearance so he could get into his storage boxes on the 5er when hooked up. I've seen quite a few rigs that will pull into a pull through spot for the night nice and comfy and then have to unhook the pin just to get into their storage box, what a pain.
Darrin Tosh
IDI Hound
I have been using an adapter on my 5th wheel for 7 plus years, Works great never had any issues.
Here is one that has a 7.5" pullback on Craigslist
http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/rvs/2478114836.html
grand rapids craigslist > for sale / wanted > recreational vehicles
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5TH WHEEL TO GOOSENECK ADAPTER CONVERT-A-BALL - $250 (DELTON)
Date: 2011-07-05, 1:13PM EDT
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A brand new Convert-a-ball 5th wheel to gooseneck adapter. Has a 7.5" offset and a 12" height. It has a 20,000 lb rating. I bought it and then changed trucks before using it. fastens to a 5th wheel trailer so it can hitch to a gooseneck ball. $250.00
Location: DELTON
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Here is one that has a 7.5" pullback on Craigslist
http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/rvs/2478114836.html
grand rapids craigslist > for sale / wanted > recreational vehicles
please flag with care: [?]
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best of craigslist
Avoid scams and fraud by dealing locally! Beware any deal involving Western Union, Moneygram, wire transfer, cashier check, money order, shipping, escrow, or any promise of transaction protection/certification/guarantee. More info
5TH WHEEL TO GOOSENECK ADAPTER CONVERT-A-BALL - $250 (DELTON)
Date: 2011-07-05, 1:13PM EDT
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]
A brand new Convert-a-ball 5th wheel to gooseneck adapter. Has a 7.5" offset and a 12" height. It has a 20,000 lb rating. I bought it and then changed trucks before using it. fastens to a 5th wheel trailer so it can hitch to a gooseneck ball. $250.00
Location: DELTON
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
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Drew2010
Full Access Member
b&w offers this for theirs...http://www.turnoverball.com/products/gooseneck-hitch/4-extender-turnoverball-accessory
although it looks like it would not take as much tongue weight. By thier specs it supports 10k less trailer weight, and 2500 lbs less tongue weight
Maybe build a hitch farther back on the frame? Okay I said it... make one...
Or as RLDSL posted, extend the frame on the 5er, I like the idea of making a whole new coupler vs those bolt on adapter dealies
although it looks like it would not take as much tongue weight. By thier specs it supports 10k less trailer weight, and 2500 lbs less tongue weight
Maybe build a hitch farther back on the frame? Okay I said it... make one...
Or as RLDSL posted, extend the frame on the 5er, I like the idea of making a whole new coupler vs those bolt on adapter dealies
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