good pyrometer

[farriswheel]

is this one any count?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-52...c0.m245&_trkparms=65:12|39:1|72:1171|240:1318

 

[icanfixall]

I wouldn't trust it. You don't need a pyro to go up higher than 1500 degrees F. Look at the Isspro EV gauges or look at what Banks has for sale.

 

[razorback]

it doesnt look horrible, but its iffy.. there was someone posted several months back it was square.. with electronic readings.. i cant think of name or find it again, wasnt really expensive but a few people tried it and said it was good.

rx7s really dont use egt gauges, mostly afr and widebands are used for them. (turbo ones anyway)

 

[Mat J]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/4343/10002/-1

hows this one it looks affordable and have heard good about other autometer gauges.

 

[farriswheel]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-52...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

this one? why would the cheaper ones be bad? i really dont want to spend a lot of money for an autometer. If i have the money to.

 

[Exekiel69]

Gauge is better than NO gauge and if Your budget is for a cheap one right now then buy that one, it is just a thermocouple and a gauge to read it. Make You install it as close to the manifold as possible.

 

[Agnem]

I'd get one that maxes out at 1500. Your never going to use 1/3rd of that gauge. Actually I'd get one that maxes out at 1300, but they don't make one that I've seen.

 

[subway]

i got a nice stewart werner gage of ebay for something like 30, trouble is it didnt come with the thermalcouple and it was around 70 by itself. that is something else to look for, try to get one that the thermalcouple comes with.

you can see mine here
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23202&highlight=pyro+gage

the cheaper gages will probubly work and are better than going without.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I'd get one that maxes out at 1300, but they don't make one that I've seen.

My needle can easily put 1300 in the rear-view mirror on these steep KY hills; 1350 is not at all un-common.

I start paying close attention anywhere above 1200 and try to keep those 1300+ bursts of as short a duration as possible.

PYROMETERS​

Number one priority when I buy a pyrometer is to read the instructions and COUNT the wires.

You ONLY want one two-wire cable that connects to the K-probe itself, and the only other wires necessary are the light and it's ground.

I will not buy, nor will I trust, any pyrometer that requires a HOT and GROUND to function; I read and hear of nothing but constant problems from those types of gauges.

In a properly built pyrometer, the HEAT on the tip of the probe generates a current that moves the needle; it should not require the battery even be in the truck.


Another very important observation to make when examining a pyrometer is to always remember that a pyrometer is nothing more than a remote thermometer, just like the indoor/outdoor one you have in the kitchen window, except it can read much higher temperatures.

If the thermocouple/PROBE is not connected, the needle had BETTER be resting at the bottom of it's scale, or just below that; if it is laying there on the counter and the needle is pointing at 375*, it isn't going to magically fix itself and read correctly on your engine.

If the thermocouple is connected to the gauge, the needle had BETTER be pointing at the current air-temperature; if it is 88* and the pyro is reading 450*, then it is a junk pyro.


Remember, you DO NOT WANT a pyrometer that requires any connection to the trucks electrical system to function; a pyrometer should work as a stand-alone gauge.


Most of my pyrometers are ISSPRO and I trust them.

 

[Agnem]

My needle can easily put 1300 in the rear-view mirror on these steep KY hills; 1350 is not at all un-common....

Then I guess you need the 1800 version. Of course, I don't, cause I wouldn't be able to sleep at night running temps over 1250. I always assume a pyro looses accuracy as it approaches the high end. Maybe it's reading 100 degrees too low. What then? Can you really afford to find out by pushing the stratosphere?

 

[Greenbeast6.9]

Save your money and get a good one, just don't turn your truck up untill you have one if your taht worried about it. My Powerstroke has been on the dyno over 150 times and every time the pryo goes around to 1600 in the performance tune. I also tow a large camper and have ran 1350 for a while up a large mountain, I scoped the cylnders last time I had the injectors out and all was good. Aluminum melts at 1250, pistons are not 100% aluminum.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Also, the probe is measuring the average temperature of all cylinders involved.

In the case of the V-8 IDI, there are seven cylinders being fanned and cooled by in-coming fuel and air, while only one is actually on fire at any given moment.

That immense amount of heat is not constantly against any one piston.

If it were otherwise, the coolant system couldn't keep up.



When American Locomotive Company built the first turbo-charged diesel locomotive engines, they had to recall them and replace the pistons with iron-capped pistons; why can't we do the same ??

 

[Agnem]

...
When American Locomotive Company built the first turbo-charged diesel locomotive engines, they had to recall them and replace the pistons with iron-capped pistons; why can't we do the same ??

Appearantly iron capping doesn't really help that much.

You must be registered for see images

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Appearantly iron capping doesn't really help that much.

Is that out of your push-mower, or the weed-eater ??; those things will do that if you forget the TC-W3 mix.

 

[crashnzuk]

My needle can easily put 1300 in the rear-view mirror on these steep KY hills; 1350 is not at all un-common.

I start paying close attention anywhere above 1200 and try to keep those 1300+ bursts of as short a duration as possible.

PYROMETERS​

Number one priority when I buy a pyrometer is to read the instructions and COUNT the wires.

You ONLY want one two-wire cable that connects to the K-probe itself, and the only other wires necessary are the light and it's ground.

I will not buy, nor will I trust, any pyrometer that requires a HOT and GROUND to function; I read and hear of nothing but constant problems from those types of gauges.

In a properly built pyrometer, the HEAT on the tip of the probe generates a current that moves the needle; it should not require the battery even be in the truck.


Another very important observation to make when examining a pyrometer is to always remember that a pyrometer is nothing more than a remote thermometer, just like the indoor/outdoor one you have in the kitchen window, except it can read much higher temperatures.

If the thermocouple/PROBE is not connected, the needle had BETTER be resting at the bottom of it's scale, or just below that; if it is laying there on the counter and the needle is pointing at 375*, it isn't going to magically fix itself and read correctly on your engine.

If the thermocouple is connected to the gauge, the needle had BETTER be pointing at the current air-temperature; if it is 88* and the pyro is reading 450*, then it is a junk pyro.


Remember, you DO NOT WANT a pyrometer that requires any connection to the trucks electrical system to function; a pyrometer should work as a stand-alone gauge.


Most of my pyrometers are ISSPRO and I trust them.

I agree with this. My Isspro is not powered and works like a charm. The Autometer in my dads truck goes off with the key. I don't like that, seems like another source for possible problems.
Travis..