Going to replace rear brakes. What else?

Dirtleg

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I am going to be replacing my rear brake shoes real soon and was trying to think of what other "while your in there" items I should consider addressing at that time. Definitely wheel cylinders and turning drums. What about E-brake parts? Based on the experiences of those who have done this job what else needs to be looked at.

Also what tools are helpful in getting the drums off properly. Any other useful techniques would be appreciated as well.

Now to answer the "why don't you upgrade to discs" question. The lack of an emergency or more useful to me, parking brake, is keeping me from considering this option. I prefer discs but need a parking brake.

Also while I was searching this subject I came across a thread on stainless braided brake hoses started by Midnight Rider. Is anyone here using these currently and if so where did they come from? Thanks.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Regardless of how good your park-brake cables work, I would probably go ahead and install a new matching pair, keeping the old ones for that occassion when one or the other decides to start hanging up.

Once you get the old ones out, you can hang them and periodically pump oil down into the housings, and work them back and forth.

But, if they are swollen inside and stuck, just toss them, as they probably can't be saved.


Dis-assemble and clean the brake-adjusters with a wire-brush on a grinder-motor.

Sharpen and refresh the star-wheel teeth with a three-cornered file.

Coat the threads, inside and out, with a generous application of anti-sieze.

Put a gob of hi-pressure grease on each bearing-point, behind the shoes.


I highly recommend the braided stainless brake-hoses; they make for a much firmer brake response.


I ?think? I got mine from Classic Tube.

I just called the guy and told him what I wanted.

He told me how much; I sent a check, and had them in a couple days.;Sweet
 

typ4

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Ditto what midnight said, also I take the park brake lever pivot bolt out and lube all that stuff, if the tips are worn as mine were Get new parts from ford. I think all the parts I got including cables was less than 150.00 and the park brake works good as new. The shims get worn on the lever and then it rubs on the drum till the end goes away then the cable falls out and gets pulled into the brakes then, well you know.
 

Dirtleg

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Thanks for the tips. That's all very sound advice. Mignight Rider thanks for the opinion and the source on the brake lines.I'll call Clasic Tube tomorrow. I have been busier than I could've imagined possible these last few days and haven't been able to check back here.

typ4 would you happen to have a Ford part #. It may sound strange but I have the absolute worst luck with the Ford counter guys. If I don't already have a part number I'm usually SOL unless it's a generic one size fits 20 vehicles item.

SOT but related to parts is there a part # database for these trucks. For my BMW I go to RealOEM.com and can get any factory part # from there. They have drawings of everything also. Just curious as it would be very convenient.

LMC isn't too bad just lacking a ton. And the exploded views are very basic.
 

metrojd

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Brake job

I second that has already been said and would add
A hardware kit
and I you havent changed any before I would get an Adjuster Kit, includes the Adjuster,the Adjuster Cable [ especially if you are taking the pivot off]and the Adjuster Paw.
Good luck
John
 

Dirtleg

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I haven't owned a vehicle with drum brakes in quite some time. (not true my 65 Plymouth is all drums. But I don't drive it. So I don't have to change the brake shoes) I've changed them before but it's been easily 10+ years so I should just act as though I've never done them before and that way my fragmented memory of the right way to do it won't screw me up.;Really

So now I need an adjuster kit too. Thanks metrojd. When I am finished I'll try and post all the part numbers.

It would be great if there were a place on the forum, sort of like an index, where these could be catalogued. I'm dreaming, I know.
 
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