Going to do a coolant filter few questions

[ericwade381]

Hi guys hope everyone is doing well. I'm going to be doing a coolant filter soon. Was going to use the napa kit and filter. My first question is can I basicly use my stock hoses (just replaced them last week) cutting them in half adding two t's and running them how they go back to the heater core. Last do you guys like the coolant filter in the bay near the fuel filter or on the frame rail?? I was thinking next to the fuel filter.

 

[BioFarmer93]

Hi guys hope everyone is doing well. I'm going to be doing a coolant filter soon. Was going to use the napa kit and filter. My first question is can I basicly use my stock hoses (just replaced them last week) cutting them in half adding two t's and running them how they go back to the heater core. Last do you guys like the coolant filter in the bay near the fuel filter or on the frame rail?? I was thinking next to the fuel filter.

If you have enough stock hose then use it and supplement only as needed. Mine is on a fabbed bracket next to the fuel filter because I don't like crawling under the truck unless I have to- much more convenient to just pop the hood. Measure carefully when you make your bracket, you've got to clear that A/C line..

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Coolant filter hanging off the fuel filter tower is easy and convenient.

If you decide to run it in full-flow mode you'll be able to reuse the hose from the heater core to the water pump as is, no changes needed to it. The hose from the head to the core will also likely be long enough to reach the coolant filter once disconnected from the core, but you'll need a 3rd piece of hose to run from the filter to the core. As convenient as it may seem to leave the core feed line alone and just hook up the filter inline with the return line to the water pump by cutting that hose in two, I'd advise against it as should your filter plug up it will be the core taking the pressure of the coolant being pumped out the engine head - whereas if you plumb the filter between the head and the core when the filter gets plugged up it will simply stop flow to the core thus letting you know that it's time to change the filter.

In bypass mode you'll be both adding the aforementioned piece between the filter and the core, AND cutting the return hose to the water pump in two. Just a bit more work, but still nothing too fancy or anything.

Most filters seem to be designed for bypass operation, yet there are some folks running them in full-flow setup on their IDIs. Your call how to do it I guess...

 

[ericwade381]

Thanks guys I'm going to go next to the fuel filter. That seems the easiest. Thanks again I'll add pictures once I'm done. It seems like a simple task to help have that extra insurance to get the most out of our trucks!!

 

[ericwade381]

One last thing. Does it matter what hoses go where in the filter. Block hose on top and water pump hose in the front? Thanks!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

The thing should have its ports labeled with IN and OUT. In full-flow setup the hose from the head goes to the IN port and the hose headed for the core comes out of the OUT obviously. If bypass mode the T-ee for head and core supply goes to the IN, and the T-ee for core return and water pump goes to the OUT.

 

[ericwade381]

Do you guys recommend tees on the set up

 

[pafixitman]

When I did mine, I just used the brass PEX Tees found in the plumbing isle of either the orange box or blue box store. I tapped into the heater core lines. I also installed a heater core bypass at the same time.