What I did to get my system to fire up, was run them off any 12V keyed source.
The controller is basically a brain to determine when to shut the plugs down when they are heated enough, upon turning the key on.
I have a 12V constant duty solemoid that gets turned on with the key. This powers up a 6 slot ATO style fuse panel. On that panel I have the GP's and FSS/high idle/timing advance as well as 4 other functions that use relays and a switch panel.
As this is a complicated and pretty in depth modification, I would suggest this. This is how I had my truck wired for a while when I bought it.
Do that big cable modification right away. This will open up a spot for you to gain power for your GPR. On the driver side inner fender is a fuse panel IIRC the fuse closest to the engine on the left bank gets power ONLY when the key is on.
This is the slot what you want. It will be marked as "glow plug ____ fuse", I can't remember what it is called, but it is a BIG 20 amp fuse. Run a wire from the power side of this fuse opening to the wire that turns your glow plug relay on. I would advise a fuse, no bigger than 5 or 10 amps in line somewheres.
This is how my truck was rigged up when I bought it and it ran just fine like this for about 6 months before I got mad and tore it apart in favor of the system I have now.
My truck is a 1993, but I think the slots are all the same.
Tomorrow when the snow stops, I can take a couple pics and upload them if you want.