Glow plug problem partII

dyoung14

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Ok on the my 89, so i swaped in a known good controller, its getting power to it, from the big yellow wires, ok then the small red wire has power when the switch is turned on, then there is a white wire that i assume is suppose to ground for a certain amount if time while the switch is on and that make the glow plugs heat, why isnt mine grounding?
 

Goofyexponent

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Dyoung....do yourself a favor, cut those two yellow wires off, and tape them up now. Remove the BIG fuse for them and forget about them.

Run a heavy and I mean HEAVY like 1/0 wire from your live side of the passenger side starter relay to the post the the yellow wires are SUPPOSED to connect to on the glow plug relay.

The two yellows wires are known to overheat and melt your engine harness plug. Mine is melted all to pieces, but it was done before I got it.

Make sure it's big cable (about the size from the battery to the fender mounted solemoid should do it), that is how mine is set up now.
 

dyoung14

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Dyoung....do yourself a favor, cut those two yellow wires off, and tape them up now. Remove the BIG fuse for them and forget about them.

Run a heavy and I mean HEAVY like 1/0 wire from your live side of the passenger side starter relay to the post the the yellow wires are SUPPOSED to connect to on the glow plug relay.

The two yellows wires are known to overheat and melt your engine harness plug. Mine is melted all to pieces, but it was done before I got it.

Make sure it's big cable (about the size from the battery to the fender mounted solemoid should do it), that is how mine is set up now.

They have already been melted and spliced, i will run a big wire later on and get rid of them,

But for now i want to get the pluugs to function off the switch, manual is not an option as this is the truck me and my girl friend will share, and she would over heat the plugsLOL
 

Goofyexponent

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What I did to get my system to fire up, was run them off any 12V keyed source.

The controller is basically a brain to determine when to shut the plugs down when they are heated enough, upon turning the key on.

I have a 12V constant duty solemoid that gets turned on with the key. This powers up a 6 slot ATO style fuse panel. On that panel I have the GP's and FSS/high idle/timing advance as well as 4 other functions that use relays and a switch panel.

As this is a complicated and pretty in depth modification, I would suggest this. This is how I had my truck wired for a while when I bought it.

Do that big cable modification right away. This will open up a spot for you to gain power for your GPR. On the driver side inner fender is a fuse panel IIRC the fuse closest to the engine on the left bank gets power ONLY when the key is on.

This is the slot what you want. It will be marked as "glow plug ____ fuse", I can't remember what it is called, but it is a BIG 20 amp fuse. Run a wire from the power side of this fuse opening to the wire that turns your glow plug relay on. I would advise a fuse, no bigger than 5 or 10 amps in line somewheres.

This is how my truck was rigged up when I bought it and it ran just fine like this for about 6 months before I got mad and tore it apart in favor of the system I have now.

My truck is a 1993, but I think the slots are all the same.

Tomorrow when the snow stops, I can take a couple pics and upload them if you want.
 

dyoung14

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What I did to get my system to fire up, was run them off any 12V keyed source.

The controller is basically a brain to determine when to shut the plugs down when they are heated enough, upon turning the key on.

I have a 12V constant duty solemoid that gets turned on with the key. This powers up a 6 slot ATO style fuse panel. On that panel I have the GP's and FSS/high idle/timing advance as well as 4 other functions that use relays and a switch panel.

As this is a complicated and pretty in depth modification, I would suggest this. This is how I had my truck wired for a while when I bought it.

Do that big cable modification right away. This will open up a spot for you to gain power for your GPR. On the driver side inner fender is a fuse panel IIRC the fuse closest to the engine on the left bank gets power ONLY when the key is on.

This is the slot what you want. It will be marked as "glow plug ____ fuse", I can't remember what it is called, but it is a BIG 20 amp fuse. Run a wire from the power side of this fuse opening to the wire that turns your glow plug relay on. I would advise a fuse, no bigger than 5 or 10 amps in line somewheres.

This is how my truck was rigged up when I bought it and it ran just fine like this for about 6 months before I got mad and tore it apart in favor of the system I have now.

My truck is a 1993, but I think the slots are all the same.

Tomorrow when the snow stops, I can take a couple pics and upload them if you want.

That would be nice, take some pics and show me what all you done to yours,

I think i got them working, i know for sure later when it cools off, i went ahead and swapped the brain and relay and all of it, off my 86 since it wont be getting drove for awhile anyway
 

Goofyexponent

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That would be nice, take some pics and show me what all you done to yours,

I think i got them working, i know for sure later when it cools off, i went ahead and swapped the brain and relay and all of it, off my 86 since it wont be getting drove for awhile anyway

What did happen to the 1986 anways? I am glad you decided to stick around....I can't be the only younger redneck on here!

Are you on Facebook man?
 

dyoung14

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What did happen to the 1986 anways? I am glad you decided to stick around....I can't be the only younger redneck on here!

Are you on Facebook man?

Its head gasket is leaking, but im gonna make one last video of it and blow the gasket completly out of the blockLOL gotta get another boost gauge first

PM me and we will talk about the facebook
 

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